 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Shostakovich
Date: 2020-01-12 17:22
I'm looking to get my fairly old YCL-62 overhauled. I won't be buying a professional instrument any time soon, so I think it is worth having the instrument repaired thoroughly.
> Prices are in $AUD - seems about right to you?
>I'll go with the complete repad. Which optional extras would be worthwhile. Should I just polish the keys myself? How about oil?
> Would you suggest using kangaroo leather throughout? Or should I opt for cork on the upper joint?
I've been given the following quote.
I've had a closer look at your lovely Nippon Gakki and here are my recommendations:
(1) Complete Repad $380
All pads (except the low F and E) will be replaced with good quality kangaroo leather pads which will last a very long time. The feel of the clarinet will be "tighter" as it provides a better seal then the current bladder pads, which are a little more "fluid" when it comes to performance. I will also re-tension the spring action as I see fit to make the keys feel new again. Most key corks will be replaced. I will also likely lower the key heights on all "ringed keys" to make them flush with the tip of the tone holes so it's more ergonomic. After this is done, I will sometimes bring it to a rehearsal to test play it in a real environment and then make further adjustments to iron out all the nitty gritties. All your tenon corks are in good shape and fit very well so no need to do anything here. Choosing this option will require at least three weeks. Earliest completion date is first week of February.
(2) MINOR SERVICE $150
TOP JOINT
G4 fuzzy new cork pad + adjustment
D4 key wobbly insert spacer
C#4 fuzzy new kangaroo leather pad + key cork + adjustment
LH Eb4 new kangaroo leather pad + adjustment
BOTTOM JOINT
Fork B3 fuzzy new kangaroo leather pad + key adjustment
G#3 new kangaroo leather pad
LH F3 new key cork
3-ring key wobbly insert spacer
Optional Extras:
(A) Bore Oil Treatment $25
While all the keys are off the clarinet, I will "baptise" top and bottom joints, barrel and bell and tone holes. This will go well with option (1). Depending on the condition of the wood, this process can take days or even weeks. One cannot rush the wood to absorb the oil. I will continue to apply oil until such time the wood is saturated. A good bore oil treatment will definitely prolong the lifespan of a wooden clarinet. I will use pure macadamia oil. Ditto option (B) below.
(B) Bore Oil Treatment $15
Oil internal bore top and bottom joints, and internal and external of barrel and bell. This will go well with option (2).
(C) Key Polish $80
Purely cosmetic in nature, I will hand polish the keys to bring back the shine in the nickel plated keys.
(D) Cork Pads for Upper Joint $TBA
Options (1) and (2) above will come with kangaroo leather pads for the top joint. I recall you saying that you prefer to have cork pads instead. Cork pads will "brighten" the sound quite significantly compared to leather pads which will "darken" the sound. This is a personal preference so it is your choice. Cork pads and will require slightly more time and effort to install because it is a harder material to work with and needs more "fiddling" to get it right. Because of this, for option (1) +$50, option (2) +$10.
Please let me know how to proceed.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: m1964
Date: 2020-01-12 19:27
Hi,
I am not a repair tech but I had some work done on a few clarinets by two different techs so I can offer you my opinion.
The price of 380AUD does not seem too high for the complete overhaul (comparing to the prices in the US).
However, it would be difficult for me to tell you how to proceed because I cannot see/play your clarinet.
Is there play in the keys? Do some of the keys need swedging?
What condition are the tone holes? Do some of them need resurfacing?
Are there any loose posts?
Also, the quote says that tenon corks are good and fit well. Were they ever changed? IMHO, if you go for a complete overhaul, why not change tenon corks too?
Did you have any prior experience with the tech?
Ycl-62 goes for 700+ USD on the action site.
If the keys/ metal and tone holes are in good condition, there are no lose posts or other serious problems, I personally would be inclined to go for the more economical option of 150 AUD.
My 2p
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Shostakovich
Date: 2020-01-12 20:21
A friend of mine replaced the tenon corks with a synthetic cork a couple of years ago. To replace them again, the repair tech would charge an additional $30 per tenon.
Since they are doing the job, I'll leave them as they are.
The tone holes seem undamaged to my eye, but I know they have to be pretty much perfect to make cork pads a viable option.
Some adjustment is definitely needed to remove play from the keys. My tech didn't mention anything about swedging.
I haven't used this tech before. I've play-tested instruments that he set up. They seem fine, and he is knowledgeable.
I think I paid around $400 USD for the YCL-62. It was in playable condition, but not performance-ready.
Thank you for your thoughts!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2020-01-13 02:44
Using Macadamia oil is a new one for me.
If I were you I would go with the leather pads - kangaroo or other. They are easier to install and I've seen lots of bad "cork jobs".
I'm glad he or she is paying attention to the height of the rings but lower isn't always better. It depends on the type of pad and how well they were installed.
A reasonable price depends on the cost of living in your area. I need to charge at least twice that amount to make a living (my hourly rate is quite low for my area)
Steve Ocone
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Tony F
Date: 2020-01-13 18:00
Depends really on the condition of the pads as they are now. With the $A150 option the tech has only suggested replacement of 6 pads, suggesting the the others are acceptable, so if price is a consideration I'd go for the $150 option. If price is not a consideration then the full repad looks attractive.
A couple of points, though. He writes of adjusting the ring keys level with the top of the tone hole chimneys. I find that this adjustment has to take account of the players fingers, with regard to size and "fleshiness". If I set up an instrument for a child with small hands, or an adult with small hands and/or bony fingers this adjustment is very different than it is for me, with large hands and spatulate fingers. It isn't a "one size fits all" adjustment.
Also, I'd suggest that the replacement pads are of the same type and thickness as the original pads. Mixing pad types can lead to problems with set-up and venting.
I was surprised to read that he charges $80 for key polishing. Personally, I do this routinely on any instrument I do a repad and overhaul on. While you have the keys and pads off it doesn't take long. I'm not a fan of oil immersion, the stuff tends to leach out for a long time after the service and discolours pads. A pull-though with an oily swab works for me.
I've never used macadamia oil so I can't comment on it. Personally I use sweet almond oil with 5% alcohol added to assist with penetration.
I live in Victoria, Australia, so I'm familiar with pricing in $A. These prices are OK as long as the work is to a satisfactory standard.
Tony F.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2020-01-13 18:35
I tend to like cork pads on the upper register. Sometimes these plastic and leather pads feel spongy to me when pressing down the keys. it's a personal thing, I like cork because they last longer in general. These new plastic pads also last a very long time.It's much easier to set those green back Valentino pads compared to cork and the old fish skin pads.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
Post Edited (2020-01-13 18:36)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ruben
Date: 2020-01-14 20:06
Cork pads last forever and seal very well, but are noisy. Yet this is what oboists use and as we know, they aren't easy characters.
rubengreenbergparisfrance@gmail.com
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-01-14 21:17
How many open standing main action keys are on clarinets? Usually three - LH1, LH2 and the RH ring keys. The only ones that will create some noise when cork padded are the LH2 and RH ring keys as LH1 remains closed whilst the left thumb is held down or when LH1 is raised and lowered whilst the left thumb is off the thumb ring.
As for cork pads being noisy, the sound doesn't carry all that far whilst playing. I had someone ask me how noisy they were and I got them to play an upper register F#-G trill on my clarinet which is cork padded down to the RH3 B/F# 'sliver' key.
I was sat right next to them in a theatre pit and I couldn't hear the pad noise - just the F#-G trill even with them hammering down RH2. Maybe a close mic can pick up the pad noise in a recording studio, but on the whole you're more likely to hear mechanical noise than pad noise just as you tend to hear with oboes (which I prefer to cork pad throughout).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: clarnibass
Date: 2020-01-14 21:57
>> How many open standing main action keys are on clarinets? Usually three - LH1, LH2 and the RH ring keys. The only ones that will create some noise when cork padded are the LH2 and RH ring keys as LH1 remains closed whilst the left thumb is held down or when LH1 is raised and lowered whilst the left thumb is off the thumb ring. <<
I'm not sure what you mean. Why do you separate the keys in that sense...? Doesn't each of those keys make a noise whenever they are being closed? Each of those keys remains closed when you hold a key that closes it...
Also why only the open keys? Regardless of what and how much noise a key makes, closed keys make a noise too when they are closed (released).
There is a big difference between playing a F#-G trill and (just an example) moving from throat G to low Bb in pianissimo.
Anyway beyond what can be heard it is up to each player to decide whether they don't like something, etc. Some might not mind if it's not heard farther than a certain distance. Some might be annoyed by the slightest amount of extra noise when recording in pianissimo. Some people just like one type of pad "noise" more than another (not only the amount of noise).
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2020-01-15 01:31
Keys closed by the fingers are usually closed with much firmer pressure than those allowed to close under their own spring tension.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
