 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: StevenWayne
Date: 2017-02-07 22:09
I tried uploading a few photos but it won't work for some reason.
Hello again. This is my 1904 Buffet Crampon Albert that I am in the middle of rebuilding. No, I didn't polish the keys, but I cleaned them a bit at least. All new pads and all new corks on this section, plus a couple of new springs. I used those double skin pads. I hope that will be good. Should I have used the leather pads instead?
Leaks all over the place. Most pads look very close to sealing well but one is troublesome. It is nowhere close (please see 2nd photo with the red X on the offending key). Here's how I installed the pads. Hot glue and I seated each one up to the ridge on the pad. Will some of these have to be shimmed or how is it accomplished? I don't want to bend keys if I can avoid it.
By the way, I gave up on that synthetic cork. I ordered some natural cork and it is way better. Sands easier, trims easier, looks better.
Post Edited (2017-02-07 22:20)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-02-07 22:40
I purposely avoid using skin pads as I can't stand them. Most are difficult to get flat and seat against the toneholes - made worse if the skin is like a drum head and the felt backing is firm but the face of the pad is distorted.
Leather pads are far more forgiving and while cork pads are very firm, they will seat against a tonehole that's both level and free from any imperfections - but you will have to prepare cork pads to ensure they're flat and free from imperfections too.
So whenever repadding a clarinet with any kind of pad, make sure your toneholes are perfect as any tiny leaks will soon add up to a significant leak if every tonehole has any form of imperfection in them.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: StevenWayne
Date: 2017-02-07 23:19
Thank you Chris. After reading a couple of threads, which maybe I should have done first, I learned that the cups have to be heated and the pads floated to seat properly. I did this and am very close to having tight seals on all keys now. The one that I said was nowhere close seems to have a weak needle spring. I will try to replace that and I'll bet that will fix that key.
By the way, all the tone holes look great. No chips or wear showing.
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Author: ldrs
Date: 2017-02-07 23:46
In the upper joint you can use hard pads like Valentino pads for example , in the lower joint you have to use better the softer pads you can get, if necessary make your own pads with some soft and quilted material and use a soft glue like liquid silicone. An expert would do another thing but this is a good way to get out of problems. Or even more easier you can put some teflon or plastic wrap in the part of the key that has the pad and in the pad of course if you have an emergency.
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2017-02-08 07:54
Its an art to pad a clarinet or any woodwind instrument. You can email me and I'll take a few photo's to help you along with how to seal a pad properly. You can also get some ideas on YouTube.
Often it will take me 45 minutes to do one cork pad. At the same time it may take me 30 minutes to seal a regular pad and I may have to change the pad a few times, because not every pad works well of every cup. This is why I hate repairing horns. I'd much rather be playing. A MUST is cut a thin piece of cigarette paper to check different areas around the cup that holds the pad. You have to feel friction at all of these areas. If you don't you have a leak and the horn won't play very well. Every pad has to seal perfectly. It took me about a year to get good at this so don't get frustrated. It's an art and a skill. A sealed clarinet should get you a 30 second suction. With cork pads a minute is common.
savagesax@aol.com
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2017-02-08 08:09
This hasn't been mentioned yet. How are the tone hole surfaces? I would start with a good analyzing of them if you didn't when you disassembled the instrument. Any good repad or overhaul has to have a good surface with which to work.
These older instruments can be a pain. I, unlike Chris, don't really care for leather pads but in some instances they are a must. Leather would be my first consideration for these older instruments and don't hesitate to cut an "X" with a sharp blade on the cardboard back if the tone holes are more rounded like that of a bassoon. That will make the pad a lot more forgiving. Anyway, can't give you too much information as it will just be confusing. Sometimes trial and error can be the best teacher.
Good luck,
jbutler
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Author: StevenWayne
Date: 2017-02-11 05:42
Attachment: z4.jpg (1382k)
Attachment: z5.jpg (1418k)
Woohoo! It's about time. I'm about halfway done. Lol The lower section is finished. I think it will play. Pads are sealing, action feels pretty good. I replaced two flat springs and three needle springs on the lower section. There is a fourth needle spring on the lower section but it seems to be fine for now. I haven't tore anything up, not yet. Replaced all the tenon corks.
Maybe about the time I get the upper section finished I'll feel like I did something really good. Bringing a 113 year old instrument back to life.
Post Edited (2017-02-11 05:46)
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