 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: kathyh
Date: 2017-01-17 23:59
Hi,
I have a Boosey and Hawkes Edgware clarinet that I bought years ago from a reputable (I thought) dealer. I haven't played it for a long time and so I put it on Ebay with a really low starting bid of £35 (they seem to be on for over £200 for refurbished Buy It Now deals).
I have had an enquiry about the serial numbers, but there is only an engraved number on the top middle section. That number is 458313 which makes it a 1976 model.
Can anyone tell me if I should expect both sections to have a number and if so how come the whole clarinet looks so exactly as if it belongs together.
I"m going to exam it tomorrow to see if I can see any more clearly in the daylight. But I would welcome any information from you experts.
Many thanks
Kathy
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2017-01-18 00:29
Yes, the serial number should appear on both upper and lower of the 2 main joints.
It's possible that one joint cracked or otherwise damaged and was replaced by a new joint.
Most commonly however it is the upper (LH) section that cracks.
When joint replacements is done in the factory I would expect the new section to be stamped to match the other but this may not have happened.
If repair done privately then maybe the repairer did not have suitable stamps.
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Author: dubrosa22
Date: 2017-01-18 01:11
I recently owned a 1970s Edgware that was all wood save for the lower joint which was plastic. Very strange!
Both joints had matching serial numbers so I'm guessing it was either a later factory replacement joint, a custom order (why???), or a factory error.
Vaughan
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-01-18 01:22
Would've been better if it had a plastic top joint and barrel and wooden lower joint and bell.
I don't think clarinets are offered with plastic top joints like oboes and cors anglais are. B&H "77" clarinets had an ebonite barrel and bell, but wooden joints with Mazak keys.
I've even seen a 1984 Buffet R13 which had a top joint transplant done by B&H as it carried the B&H style serial numbers stamped above the speaker tube instead of by the C#/G# tonehole.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: kathyh
Date: 2017-01-18 01:31
So what I assume from your replies to me is that if it was all genuine B&H Edgware it would have had the serial number on the upper and lower joints? How much do you think this should affect the value? I think it is a pretty good instrument. I paid £300 for it in the late 90s, played it a bit, lost interest and it's been hanging round ever since. It doesn't seem leaky, or musty or damp.
I suppose it doesn't really matter what it's worth because I just whacked it on Ebay and it's been bid on at £35 so someone might be getting a bargain.
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Author: kathyh
Date: 2017-01-18 02:05
This is definitely wood. You can see the grain. Unless they made a sort of textured plastic to imitate wood.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-01-18 02:10
Edgwares were usually wood and also some were machined from PVC with ebonite tonehole chimney inserts instead of being moulded from Bakelite or ABS like the Regents were. '50s Edgwares were available in ebonite.
I've also seen a Bakelite bodied Emperor - basically it's just a Regent but with silver plated keys and the scalloped socket rings.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: dubrosa22
Date: 2017-01-18 04:23
The exterior of the 1970s plastic Edgware lower joint I had looked like wood from the outside (very convincing grain finish) but the bore was glass smooth whereas the wood bore upper joint was shiny smooth but had obvious wood grain 'roughness' - just like my wood B&H 1010s bore
V
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-01-18 05:52
It could still be wood or hard rubber. I have 2 wood Imperials, 1 has a glass-smooth bore and the other is obviously wood. Both play well. Depends on the quality of the wood billet used to make that joint.
Tony F.
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