 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: mmatisoff
Date: 2016-11-26 22:38
Since the weather here in Frankfort KY has become colder, we've been running the heat more. I realized recently that I can't hit C above top-of-staff G. Could that be because the reed is to dry due to the dry heat, or is it possible that my embouchure is changing?
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2016-11-27 00:11
Great question! It is possible that your reed has reached the end of its life. Try doing a minor experiment. Move the reed up just a shade on the mouthpiece so the tip of the reed is above the tip of the mouthpiece. Just a tad. Then see if you can hit the high C. If you can, maybe the reed has gotten just a bit too soft for you and you either need a new reed or maybe go up to the next strength level. What strength reed are you plating on now? Maybe a 2? Also, reeds get old after a few days to a month. Cane is unstable. It is in the bamboo family and it is considered a type of grass call "Arundo donax" and there are around 250 different types of bamboo including sugar cane.
So this piece of cane may just be getting tired and you need a new one. It could also mean that you mouth muscles are getting stronger and you need s stronger strength. So if you are playing on a 2 strength reed you may want to try a 2 1/2. go up a 1/2 strength. These muscles around your lips, your cheeks, jaw, have a French name called your Embouchure. It's just a fancy word for how all of your muscle work together and maybe these muscles are getting to the point where you need a stronger reed.
Write one more time and let us know how long you have been playing and how old the reed is. Also what number is stamped on the reed. Thanks! Good question and a lot of people have trouble hitting that high C for the first 6 months of playing.
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2016-11-27 02:04
mmatisoff wrote:
> Could that be because the reed is
> to dry due to the dry heat,
You wet the reed before you play, don't you? Reeds as they get older sometimes need more wetting time than when they were new. Maybe yours just needs more time in your mouth or in a water cup.
Reeds sometimes feel softer in colder weather, although the reason can be a source of disagreement, and they feel softer as they get old. Bob's suggestion will help you to tell if the reed is too soft for whatever reason. It may be easier just to try a fresh one out of the box to see if it works any better.
> or is it possible that my
> embouchure is changing?
Always possible, but probably not all of a sudden.
Karl
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Author: Richie
Date: 2016-11-27 03:30
I think like the others have said, reeds are the most likely scenario. Try some others, and if climate and humidity keeps being an issue, maybe synthetic is the way to go.
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Author: mmatisoff
Date: 2016-11-27 03:46
I've been using three different reeds and three different mpcs. I've tried to see if any combination of mpc and reed makes a difference.
I'm using Vandoren V21 3.5+ on my Vandoren M15 series 13 and Gennusa mpcs and Vandoren Traditional 2.5 on my Vandoren B45.
The B45 with 2.5 strength reeds works okay, I just struggle a tiny bit. When I try the V21 (or Xilema) reeds on the M15 or Gennusa mpcs, I can't hit the C.
I was using 56 Rue Lepic 3.5+ but haven't used them in about 6 months.
I've been playing for almost 1.5 yrs now
I might do as you noted and try a synthetic reed. Can you suggest a strength to start with as I don't believe synthetics can be adjusted.
One other thing is that my mouth and reed dry out very fast in this weather. I tried soaking the reed in a cup of water for about 3 min. No difference. I can't get enough moisture into the reed. Though, when I swab, there is plenty of condensation in the instrument.
Hope this makes some sense.
Marty
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Author: Burt
Date: 2016-11-27 05:20
Do you have a reed clipper? If Bob's suggestion to move the reed up on the mouthpiece solves the problem, clipping the reed half a millimeter or so should make the reed usable. Then you should sand the tip VERY LIGHTLY.
And if a reed is too hard, move it down on the mouthpiece, but it needs to reach the bottom of the top rail.
Don't try to clip plastic reeds.
I haven't used Vandoren reeds in years, so I can't suggest the reed strength. Look on the Legere web site for their suggestion.
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Author: mmatisoff
Date: 2016-11-28 02:51
Karl,
I think I have isolated the problem. I decided to try the same mouthpiece/ligature/reed setup I use on the Opus with my old Yamaha 20 plastic clarinet. NO problems.
I think it may be time to have the Opus checked out to make sure I don't have any leaks or other problems.
I recently had it overhauled (about a year ago) and had all new Valentino pads put on and had the keys straightened. It worked fine until about two months ago (when I thought the heating issue was causing my problems.)
Is there anything in particular I should tell the shop to look for?
Even with the Yamaha's slop, the notes were easier (not perfect) to play.
Thank you as always, Marty
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2016-11-28 03:12
mmatisoff wrote:
>
> Is there anything in particular I should tell the shop to look
> for?
>
Well, specific to your problem with clarion high C (C6), there's so little pad work up that high on the clarinet that there aren't many places to look, and most if not all of them would cause problems lower down as well. You might check the register vent if you haven't already to see if it's blocked by any kind of debris. You should, of course, have him check the throat G#/Ab and A keys to be sure they're covering and the tone hole under the A key (linked to the thumb and index finger rings) for coverage. Also check the hole between 1st and 2nd finger for clearance when you only have the thumb and/or 1st finger covered.
A mechanical check-up can never hurt if the tech is competent. I'd be a little surprised if he found anything mechanically wrong (excepting the couple of things I suggested above) that definitively solves the problem you've described, but you do say the problem goes away with the same setup on the Yamaha, so maybe the tech will find something. Meanwhile, let him fix anything else that isn't right.
BTW, as you perhaps already realize, simply putting in new pads doesn't guarantee that they're sealing. The tech needs to spend the time (and have the knowledge) to seat them properly so they actually seal all the way around.
Karl
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Author: Bob Bernardo
Date: 2016-11-28 04:01
Wish you didn't live 2000 miles away. I'd have you fixed up in just a few minutes. It's easy to figure out when horns leak. It's a bit more troublesome to fix the leaks. The newer pads are much better, but fitting a pad correctly can take 20 minutes sometimes. Sure you can pop on a new pad and think that the horn is fine, but to seal that 1 pad can drive you nuts, often replacing that new pad once or twice. Not all pads are really great. Compare pads to reeds, you want that perfect pad to seal correctly and you want that perfect reed to last a few weeks to 2 or 3 months. Also putting on a new pad can make a leak worse; if you've never done it before or have the correct tools.
Just for be being curious, are all of your joints tight fitting. Right? I see idiots, no disrespect taken, but they put tape and paper over the cork joints when the cork gets too loose and dried out. For example where the barrel meets the upper joint they may put tape there to tighten up the old cork. It may feel tight, but it surely can still leak. So it the mouthpiece cork isn't tight well you could have a problem.
I strongly agree with Karl here. If anything, a leaking horn would be easier to hit the high C, and much harder to hit the lower notes.
It's not adding up yet.
How old are you? If you are a student or low income send the "Problems," to me. No charge. Include the mouthpiece. I need to look at that. Often the mouthpiece is a problem, it may have been nicked without you ever knowing it. If you ship it Monday, tomorrow, you should have it back by Friday or Saturday.
Music should be fun, right now it's not for you. You are wasting time figuring out problems. Throw in $10 for shipping, I'll pay for everything else. I can usually fix problems, major problems in a day, so your horn(s) will be shipped back the next day. If $10 is too much I'll cover that too.
I kinda dislike most repairmen. Some of them are good very few are great. People often think that if you pay a lot they must be good. That's not really true. I will bite my tongue here, living in Los Angles. I've seen some real hack jobs from guys and for some reason they have a 3 month waiting list.
Bob
Designer of - Vintage 1940 Cicero Mouthpieces and the La Vecchia mouthpieces
Yamaha Artist 2015
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