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Re: rod screw problems

Author: clarnibass
Date: 2016-03-14 19:44

As others mentioned the best solution is to have the screw and key repaired so it can be tightened firmly all the way and the key doesn't bind. Almost always a screw comes out because it's not tightened enough.

>> The alternatives are to leave the screw slightly loose and check it regularly <<

An alternative to that is to have the threads hold better even if it's not tightened all the way. There are a few ways to do this.

One is Loctite, but it is trickier than regular pivot screws.
Remove the D/A ring key and its pivot screw (opposite of the long rod/pivot screw). Clean the F# key and posts. Oil the F# ring key (and rod if you want) and mount it back on. Loctite can be pretty resistant to oil but there's a chance this is less reliable. Some Loctite is specific to resist oil, but not sure the weak type is one of those. Tighten the crew about as much as is ok without binding (guesstimating). Wipe any extra Loctite that oozes out of the post on the pivot screw. Oil/grease the ends of the D/A key and assemble it. Adjust so the screw there's no binding and no (or a minuscule amount of) play.

You can also clean all parts and assemble dry with Loctite the same way. Then oil. Even "medium" thickness oil would eventually get into the key, even if it doesn't seem like there's any play at all.
Either way make sure there's no Loctite on the sides of the post before assembling.

An even faster and "cheaper" method is to "ruin" the threads so they have more resistance. This can actually be an excellent way especially when an instrument is barely worth repairing, but I don't really recommend it because someone can easily cause too much damage.

In reality other than an emergency or extremely low budget (charity...) repair I'd do the first method of fitting the keys, but they are options when that's not a possibility.

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rod screw problems new

nron

2016-03-14 16:33