 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: BGBG
Date: 2015-12-06 03:42
For those of you who may know how, I am interested in how to try to fix an old 2 or 2.5 reed that can sound fairly good sometimes and maybe not even play other times, and it helps to move it higher maybe a mm or two beyond end of MPC.
Aside from throwing it away or waiting for a good day, is there a specific sort of modification to try for this problem other than just moving the reed around? I have 6 reeds like this and only use for practicing and dont need to do much more than sound the note. I know some modification methods but not really good at analyizing the fault and deciding which to try for a given trouble. I have good reeds but that isn't the point.
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Author: johng ★2017
Date: 2015-12-06 04:28
If you must place the tip of the reed beyond the end of the mouthpiece, it most likely is too soft for your playing and your set up. If you want to see what you can do, use a reed clipper to trim the tip and then balance the reed from side to side using whatever method you choose. If it is really old, then it may have out lasted its usefulness and will make an excellent mulch if you chip it up real fine.
John Gibson, Founder of JB Linear Music, www.music4woodwinds.com
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2015-12-06 07:54
I don't know another way to say this other than being blunt.
If you are serious about practicing and getting better at your craft, you would be best served "letting go" of reeds that no longer work. I use 10 reeds in rotation (usually about 7 to 8 of those actually), one reed each day, then going back to the top, for about a month to two months tops (again, that's that amount of time divided by eight reeds).
Now besides just wanting to achieve what others tell you is "impossible," the only rational reason to be obstinate would be money. Though I am still filled with reservations about Legere reeds (I am working on one last project though), they are decent and can get you a year or more worth of use on one reed (that's only $24 or so for a year or more!!!!).
Move on, practice on decent reeds and get better. Don't lose sight of what is important.
......................Paul Aviles
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Author: BGBG
Date: 2015-12-06 08:33
Paul; I dont mind blunt, and even if I did I would still have to learn so would not be offended. But clarify please. I do not only play on old or bad reeds, but is it the rule that playing on bad reeds some of the time would sacrifice someone's progress or improvement? I just like to see if i can learn to make them better if possible just for the learning experience like I might change a tire to get where I was going but wouldnt want to may it a full time occupation. But if playing on a bad reed wold in turn make me play poorly even on a good reed I will certainly limit my playing old reeds to testing only. Dont want to give the wrong idea- if they are bad and I cant make them sound good I will discard them. Forums are for opinions, not to please me. So say it like you see it, please. But because I like to work on old reeds I dont want to give the impression that I dont like, want or cant afford to play on good ones. And I want to play well and sound good even if not for money or fame. Thanks for an honest opinion and no need for worry or apologies. I seek the truth.
And I will take this advice, though still trying and have much to learn about what is important.
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Author: sfalexi
Date: 2015-12-06 08:39
If you have the money, buy a reed clipper and Tom Ridenours ATG Reed system. It's a very informative book and DVD. You can also look at his videos on YouTube. One of the first ones (maybe his first) he ever put up was his ATG Reed system and an overview on how to adjust and fine tune reeds.
It's a great system and works well.
Or you could do like me, and find a legere signature that works for you, and rotate three of those for about half a year.
Alexi
US Army Japan Band
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2015-12-07 01:40
Yeah, maybe a little haughty. Sorry 'bout that.........but........
Real reed work comes with newer reeds that are not balanced, but have potential.
Cane reeds have a usable life. Just like us, they don't last forever. Even Legeres get too worn and distorted at the tip to be useful at some point. Once a reed works, and then gets to a point where it no longer works, then it needs to be discarded.
Reeds that I use too long (and it happens) begin to sound brittle and lack depth. You can hear the difference in comparison to the reeds that you are breaking in (the newer, not fully broken in reed may still be fuzzier than you'd like, but it will have far more "bottom" to the sound).
I just would prefer saving someone from some needless frustration! Karl Leister said on a recent video posted to "Vandoren TV" that with the outstanding quality of today's reeds, we no longer have the excuse that "our reeds don't work."
Once you find the brand, cut and strength you like I would wholeheartedly agree with that assessment.
.....................Paul Aviles
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Author: BGBG
Date: 2015-12-07 02:47
One thing I have learned about clarinets---seems everybody does and believes different things and it works best for that person. Maybe there is no one best thing and it depends on the person using or doing it.
And I am sure I dont have the best ear or best ability but that is no reason not to have what others consider best. Reeds and mouthpieces seem important and I am not sure if have a given mouthpiece you should match up the reed for it, or how to do that. I would call myself a self taught( though did start with some lessons) late-stage beginner and believe I should be interested in seeking intermediate techniques, parts, etc, even if I couldnt tell the difference. I can tell the difference in a beginner student clarinet and the E11, and the M13 MPC compared to the MPC that came with instrument. And also different reeds. The improving reeds thing is just an interesting sideline and not that important.
Suppose I were interested in trying Vandoren reed, ... as compared with a D'Addario Reserve Classic, Rico Entry-Level beginner, and the Rico Mitchell Lurie Premium... which reed would be suggested to improve things?
And if pesticides are not good is it best to avoid Rico reeds? Rico brand seems everywhere. I am totally confused with all the different things and different opinions. Seeking answers & improvement, not offended if I dont like the ones I get so dont worry. Want to be as good as I can for time I spend and willing to try. No real goals or ambition beyond that. Only myself to please.
anyone find Clarenet Mentors Newsletter helpful?
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2015-12-07 03:13
BGBG wrote:
> I am totally confused with all the
> different things and different opinions.
This is precisely the reason why some questions are better answered by trial and error than by asking others' opinions.
I happen to agree with Paul that spending time trying to revive old, possibly spent reeds is not useful most of the time. If your goal is to learn reed adjustment rather than to wring a last week or so from an old favorite, you'll more likely learn it by experimenting on new reeds that still have their resilience. Once you know what to do (from long experience ruining a lot of reeds), you may be able to temporarily revive an older reed, but if you're trying to learn, you'll never know what works and what doesn't. The result with an old tired reed may the same either way.
As to "what can I do" to improve a reed, basically you have two choices - clip the tip to make the reed heavier (you're bringing the thick area up closer to the tip) or remove cane from a place that's too hard to make it more flexible and vibrant. Beyond that, there aren't any absolutes - you have to learn from experience and mistakes when to clip (if the reed seems too light) and when and where to scrape (if the reed seems stuffy and doesn't vibrate freely). There are chapters of books and articles on the web and in magazines explaining rules of thumb to guide you, but in the end it's a matter of feel. You can check out Ed Palanker's web page or look for books by Opperman, Bonade, Brymer, Brand, Pino and any number of others who write about where to remove wood to achieve a specific result, or find Tom Ridenour's demos of his ATG System on the web. But in the end, what you do depends on what you want the reed to feel like and how it fails to meet that expectation.
But again, your results will be far more likely to be meaningful and your learning outcome far more more useful if you work with new reeds than if you try to learn on tired ones that may never improve no matter what you do.
Karl
Karl.
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