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Re: Building up a key

Author: clarnibass
Date: 2015-10-02 09:14

>> but my real hesitation with it is that contact cement is a mess to remove if I don't find that the change helps. <<

Contact cement is easy to remove with alcohol or lighter fluid. Put some on a paper towl or even ear bud and rub it off. It might take a few seconds or a little more than a few seconds.

The main reason I wouldn't use cork is mostly because cork feels worse touching it. After trying all the methods suggested here, I would rate cork as having the worst feel (I've tried other materials too and would still prefer one of the other methods).

>> If you decide to bend metal to adjust the position, I think it is a good idea to heat the metal before doing the bending. I have heard, perhaps it is just a rumor, that this helps prevent the key metal from breaking. It is probably not so simple as different alloys might have different properties when heated. I do this when I am straightening the bridge key tabs and other keys and so far none has broken yet doing it this way. I admit that it is a somewhat superstitious practice. <<

It's not a rumor and not superstitious, but it's also more specific than that.

Almost all clarinet keys are made of nickel silver, cupronikel or brass. All of these materials (and some others) become softer if heated to red hot (called annealing). The amount of heat required could damage the plating, but might not, it can vary (also depending on the heating method).

If you heat it to significantly lower temp than that then it's not doing anything really and you might as well not do it. With experience you develop a feel for how different metals bend and what could or couldn't break them, also depending on shape, thickness, etc.

I don't heat keys before relativley minor bends like what you described (bridge adjustment, adjustment to touchpieces, etc.) and have never had a key break. Same for others I know who also adjust keys all the time.

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Building up a key new

kdk

2015-10-01 04:37