 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: fuzzystradjazz
Date: 2015-09-17 23:41
I recently purchased a 1920s Conn clarinet (hard rubber). I'm preparing to re-pad the instrument, but notice a pretty aggressive buildup of various oils/dirt around the posts. I'm guessing this is key oil from a century ago, along with the dirt it has since collected.
The clarinet is still in beautiful black condition, and I'd like to keep it that way as I clean it. I've read that soap and water can change the color to the common olive green hue, so I'd like to avoid that. I know early 20th century rubber is different than modern rubber, and was hoping someone here might be able to suggest the best plan for cleaning the body of this instrument.
I've read the posts about cleaning old hard rubber mouthpieces with 1:5 vinegar solutions, etc., but figured this might be different since I'm dealing with oil and dirt instead of calcium or other deposits (plus, I'd prefer not to have to remove the metal posts and vent tubes etc. - especially since I don't know how they are attached in a hard rubber instrument.)
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Fuzzy
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Author: KenJarczyk
Date: 2015-09-18 00:02
Not to beg-off an answer, I know what I'd do - but -
Call Tom Ridenour (of Ridenour Clarinet) - and ask him! He is the most knowledgeable hard-rubber guy anywhere! He is also one of the most friendly and helpful people you will ever meet!
888-258-7845
You'll be glad you did!
Ken Jarczyk
Woodwinds Specialist
Eb, C, Bb, A & Bass Clarinets
Soprano, Alto, Tenor & Baritone Saxophones
Flute, Alto Flute, Piccolo
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2015-09-18 02:27
I've had good luck with using soap and cold water on most hard rubber instruments but if it is an instrument that is higher in value (such as a Conn C clarinet which I restored once) I will generally use que-tips, paper towels and a large paintbrush to remove debris. My opinion is that if you are unsure its better to be safe than sorry. If your instrument does discolor you can bring back most if not all of the color with a polishing cream. This is what I usually do for old mouthpieces to bring back the beautiful shine and color.
Hope this helps!
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2015-09-18 03:03
Hard rubber can be cleaned using slightly warm soapy water and a brush. Use QTips to clean the tone holes. When you've cleaned it, shake it to remove loose water and then allow the pieces to air-dry. Hot water will react with the sulphur in the rubber and cause the rubber to change colour to a nice chocolaty brown, probably not what you want. I've used the technique that Tom Ridenour shows in his YouTube clip to restore the black finish to an oxidised rubber clarinet and it works perfectly.
Tony F.
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Author: fuzzystradjazz
Date: 2015-09-18 20:27
Thanks for all the responses. I decided to go ahead and try the "slightly warm soapy water" on Qtips, used very sparingly. Seems to have worked reasonably well!
I do have a secondary question for those repairers out there: In the past, I've always used a mild silver polish to remove the sticky growth/dull appearance from nickle plated keys. However, the amount of effort to do this by hand is fairly substantial, and the keys never end up looking "like new" - is there a suggested method to use on old nickle-plate? (Personally, I don't like super-shiny keys on an old instrument, but I'm just curious what the "standard" practice/product might be.
Thanks,
Fuzzy
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2015-09-18 21:39
I use a small felt buffing wheel on a Dremel with a fine buffing compound. Works OK.
Tony F.
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Author: fuzzystradjazz
Date: 2015-09-18 23:05
Tony,
Your post about a "nice chocolaty brown" color was great! I actually do own one such instrument! (It was that way when I bought it.) The clarinet has no maker marks on it, but the keywork is identical to some 189x Conn clarinets I own. It plays just like the Conns too (which is...great!)
I sort of like the brown color on that one, so I've left it "as is." No olive or green to it at all!
Fuzzy
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Author: cearnsh
Date: 2015-09-21 15:36
Never use silver polish on nickel plated keys! It can cause etching into the nickel plating which is impossible to remove. Maybe not all silver polishes will cause this but many do, and if it happens the only effective solution is to get the part re-plated.
For nickel plating (or unplated nickel silver) I'd recommend _very_ sparing use of an automotive chrome polish on a soft cloth, and polish gently by hand rather than using a Dremel or other mechanical aid. In my experience this is the best way to avoid damaging the surface texture.
Chris
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Author: fuzzystradjazz
Date: 2015-09-21 18:31
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the response. I'll get some chrome polish for future use. I started the project prior to your post, though, by using an old standby (Wright's Silver Cream) which always worked for me. It seems to have a done a good job...however my container is probably a decade old, so I'm not sure if today's formula sold at the stores is the same.
I attempted the first key with a dremel, but wasn't happy with the results (maybe my buffing bit wasn't the correct one), so I ended up doing it by hand as usual.
I'm still trying to figure out the best way to clean the key posts and such though without interfering with the hard rubber body.
Fuzzy
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Author: Julian ibiza
Date: 2022-12-05 23:34
I imagine that hard rubbers tend to differ in composition and the best ways for cleaning them may differ acordingly . The RIDENOUR hard rubber stains brown very quickly in contact with water and this chemical reaction can't be doing the material any good seeing as It will come away on your cleaning cloth ...and that's not to mention the unsightly brown which could be described as milk chocolate ,although other comparisons for this color will likely come to mind .
I use Dunlop brand lemon oil ( very little of it on a soft cloth ).It loosens grime and light oxidation on the hard rubber and leaves it with a " good as new " shine and color. Most importantly it doesn't seem to react with the material in any way which seems to be quite an issue with hard rubbers .
If cleaning with water creates discoloration , then this can be removed with rubbing compound ......or you can just skip the water and reach straight for the rubbing compound in the first place and save yourself the extra work of removing all the staining from the water . Personally I wouldn't get water on my 925c bass for any reason .....it creates a horror story !
This is Ridenour's hard rubber I'm talking about which is probably most of what's out there today .
I believe some hard rubbers are fine in contact with water . It's probable got to do with the proportions of sulfur used in vulcanization or something .
Julian Griffiths
Tel. 34 696 798 853
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Author: Tom Ridenour
Date: 2023-01-15 21:34
The color of hard rubber clarinets fading is quite rare based on what customers have told us over the past 17 years but when it does happen there is a very easy solution. I've walked maybe 15 customers, quite a few of them band parents who aren't actually musicians themselves, through this process over the years and the results have been excellent every time as far as I'm aware.
What you will need;
https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-USMC-Black-Leather-Dye/dp/B00AN5OX3C/ref=asc_df_B00AN5OX3C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802514357&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4262821009564311843&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026871&hvtargid=pla-570224397596&psc=1
A jewelers screw driver to remove keys. Parallel pliers are recommended though not necessarily needed.
Soft cloth
Roll of paper towels.
Instructions;
1. Remove the keys from the faded/discolored area(s) of the clarinet.
2. Using a damp cloth wipe down the body of the clarinet to remove dust, dirt, grime, etc. and then dry it off.
3. Buff the faded/discolored areas of the clarinet with with the leather dye. Be conservative in your application of the dye as you can always add a little more but removing it, even when still wet, is a bit trickier.
4. Once the discolored/faded areas of the body are stained back to black let the clarinet dry over night. Off the top of my head I don't recall how long the bottle says the substance takes to dry but our recommendation is to let it dry over night.
5. In the morning put the keys back on and the clarinet should look basically new.
Warning: Obviously don't do this to a mouthpiece as that's something you stick in your mouth. I would hope the reason why is self explanatory.
Hope this helps anyone who's clarinet has discolored and they'd like it looking like new again. If you have any questions about this you can post them here but the better bet is contacting us directly as I don't often check message boards.
Ted Ridenour
Ridenour Clarinet Products,
rclarinetproducts.com
sales@ridenourclarinetproducts.com
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Author: Julian ibiza
Date: 2023-01-15 23:00
Ah ! ...Tom !
Thank you for adding your expert advice on this subject . I tried to find something among your very informative YouTube videos . I didn't find anything , but I did find other great stuff . Love your down-to-earth views and handy practical tips . I find them all to be very useful.
Keep up the designe Magic .....it's much admired and appreciated .
Julian Griffiths
Tel. 34 696 798 853
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