 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: GBK
Date: 2015-02-15 03:16
The silencing material (cork, felt, etc...) that is used under the tiny foot of the left pinky E/B key -
Does it matter if the material is adhered to the key itself or to the body of the clarinet, since I've seen it both ways?
Is one way preferred over the other?
...GBK
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Author: GLHopkins
Date: 2015-02-15 03:35
It is done both ways. I almost always do it the way it came from the factory.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2015-02-15 18:56
A larger piece can be put on the body which gives more surface for glue (harder to knock off. Not a big deal.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-02-15 20:45
If you do stick the bumper material onto the body, just be sure it doesn't foul the F#/C# linkage arm as that can either make it feel sluggish (and Buffet F#/C# keys have a poor action anyway, so no point in making things worse than they already are) or it could prevent the F#/C# pad from closing.
Buffet and some others have circular recesses cut into the body beneath the LH F/C lever foot and the E/B linkage arm to glue a piece of cork (or silencing material of your choice) into instead of glueing them directly to the key. So when replacing them, punch out a 4mm diameter disc of 1.6mm cork which will do the trick.
A circular recess can easily be milled into the joints if you want to glue small discs of cork into them instead of onto the undersides of keys - Selmer have them in several places on the top joint on some of their clarinets, as do Leblanc. Buffet DG Prestiges had loads of them.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2015-02-16 11:48
It will stay on the key virtually forever if you prepare the metal first by using a very coarse sandpaper to rough up the surface of the key where the bumper material will be placed and then using acetone simply de-grease it then glue it on. This will give the material an excellent surface to adhere to.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-02-16 12:02
Roughening up the surface is debatable - degreasing s the most important thing to successful adhesion.
With modern adhesives you don't need to roughen up the surface as they would have done in the dark ages when they used shellac to stick key corks on with. But fortunately things have moved on since then.
Not clarinets but saxes - one of my pet hates is when people scratch up or remove the lacquer on sax crooks when they replace the crook cork. There's no need for that either if you degrease things thoroughly.
Another thing we can do without on clarinets is deeply grooved or wavy tenon slots when a perfectly flat bottomed slot will do a better job as there's more contact between the tenon slot and the underside of the strip of cork - deeply grooved tenon slots have minimal contact with the underside of the cork as only the peaks are in contact and the troughs are wasted voids.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2015-02-16 12:45
>> Selmer have them in several places on the top joint on some of their clarinets <<
I recently had to replace all of those on a Selmer because they used a terrible rubbery material that gradually becomes more and more sticky.
Post Edited (2015-02-16 16:15)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-02-16 15:21
I replace them with either ultrasuede laminated with itself, ultrasuede laminated with cork, or plain cork depending on the instrument.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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