Author: clarnibass
Date: 2014-09-19 09:35
>> I aslo agree with Paul about sanding the rods down very slightly. <<
Eventhough you don't know if the key is binding between the posts or between the pivot screws? It's definitely possible that it's binding between the posts, but I would prefer not to sand the key unless I make sure this is the case.
>> what would be the solution if it is the pivot screws that cause it to get stuck? <<
First I would find out why it is getting stuck and where. Assuming it is mounted on pivot screws, you can try tightening the screws and seeing if it is getting worse.
Like you said it's probably borderline so it's only really getting stuck depending on weather. But that's with the spring. You can move the spring out of its cradle and check. It might mean disassembling and reassembling the key (and maybe other keys) since sometimes there isn't enough space for that. Eventhough it's not stuck enough (most of the time) to bind with the spring, it's likely that you could feel some resistance with the spring off.
It's a good idea to disassemble and check how easy/difficult it is to mount the key in place, sometimes you can find some resistance and where it is by just doing that. Check for burrs on the ends of the key and the posts too.
If you can feel resistance with the screws completely tightened, try backing them out slightly, only one at a time i.e. back out one, then tighten it again and try the other. If the resistance disappears when one or both screws are slightly backed out, then the key is not binding between the posts (at least when you check). It's also possible that it is binding both between the posts and between the screws separately.
If the key does bind between the screws and first check if one of the screws is bent at the end, or has a burr or sharp edge from a bump/dent, etc.
The simplest way to fix it is to back out the screw slightly until there is no binding and using weak thread locker on the threads. This is not a "professional" repair but hoesntly I've never seen this causing a problem or ever releasing and bringing the problem back.
The supposedly more secure and "professional" repair is to fit either the screw or the key mechanically, whichever makes more sense in each case. For example it might be that the threads stick out of the post, so it might be better to sand that, or the hole for the screw is distorted so it might be better to fix that, etc.
IME both methods would work and I've never had a problem with either. When there are no budget issues I use the second method because I know it works. The thread locker, although I've never had an yissues with it and I thinkit is also just as secure in practice, I just can't know it for sure.
Of course if the binding is really just between the posts then all of this is irrelevant. I just wanted to emphasize that I wouldn't want to sand the key without first making sure that's where the binding is.
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