 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: BbMajorBoy
Date: 2014-09-06 00:41
Attachment: DSC_0530.jpg (1871k)
I think bumper is probably the wrong word...
What material would you use between the A and G sharp key? I have just noticed some unusual noises coming from that region so I took the G# off and was wondering what would be thin enough to go there to try and eliminate some of the noise.
Thanks
Leonard Bernstein: "To achieve great things, two things are needed; a plan, and not quite enough time."
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2014-09-06 01:40
it depends on the maximum clearance between these keys. If there's enough room, I use snippets of thin mouthpiece cushions. Else it's cork. In a pinch, a bit of teflon or electrical tape (or even clear sellotape) works too.
Alternatively replace the metal adjustment screw with a nylon screw. This is the quickest way and it probably lasts longest.
--
Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-09-06 02:03
I drill the tips of the screws out and glue in a piece of nylon monofilament, then trim it and shape it so it's domed so there's no need for cork or anything else stuck to the recess in the throat A key which can make things feel sluggish or wear through after some time.
Nylon has next to no give in it and it's silent with that small amount of movement, plus it's easy to adjust the gap between the screw tip and the throat A key to get a better feel than too much double action or sponginess. The worst thing I've seen are on Selmer clarinets that have a rubber tip to the throat G#-A screw.
Cork isn't good under adjusting screw tips as it gets chewed through fairly quickly, plus if it's thicker than 0.4mm it can feel spongy.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2014-09-06 02:28
I always heat the tip of the screw with a lighter and dip it in hot glue. That way it will have a sort of "rubberized" coating.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2014-09-06 10:29
If the screw is plastic/nylon then maybe no material is necessary. If it's metal (or plastic, or has a plastic tip) I usually use 0.3mm microfiber material. It is a type of imitation leather that one company offers as pad covering instead of leather. Other materials can work fine too, like rubber cork, teflon, or a teflon over another materrial.
I agree with Chris that (natural) cork is not a good material for this and I also dome the screw end.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-09-06 15:14
Teflon would be the best material. That juncture is imperfect in that is needs to 'slide,' so cork or other "draggy" materials would be a less desirable option.
It is also important to note that you need to maintain a slight gap here as well. If not, this is what could happen. Just about any pad (except pure synthetic) will expand slightly in the presence of condensation when you play. If the "A" key pad expands more than the "G#" key pad, then the "G#" pad could be raised slightly open causing a leak.
So, I would get used to a slight clicking here.......that's just the nature of it.
.............Paul Aviles
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2014-09-06 19:47
hmm... I see what you mean with natural cork - I normally use a blemish free paper thin snippet over a teeny smear of hot glue - the result is very firm and I haven't had any failures yet. Yet.
But next time I'll see if I manage to properly drill a hole into the existing screw and make a nylon insert. I'd think that d'Addario nylon strings have the best musical qualities, no? Would a "B" string work fine on a Bb instrument? ![[tongue]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie6.gif)
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Ben
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-09-06 20:13
d'Addario are one of the most respected names in guitar strings, so no reason why not.
What diameter is the B string? I'd suggest a minimum diameter of 1mm - use a centre drill and mount the adjusting screw in your lathe chuck to drill it. Otherwise make a centring jig that fits over the screw thread to centre the drill or countersink then finish it with a 1mm drill but don't drill too far into the screw - about 1.5mm-2mm deep will do.
Apply a drop of superglue to the end of the guitar string and push it in place, trim the excess off so you're left with a maximum of 1mm and then file it down with a fine file while mounted in a bench chuck to dome the nylon right down. If the screw head is protruding too far from the pip, then file the end of the screw down by as much is needed and replace the nylon insert.
Best way to gauge the correct length of the adjusting screw is to screw it into the pip so the head is almost flush with the top of the pip and file the screw tip down almost flush with the underside, but again that depends on how much of a gap there is between the G# and A keys - some clarinets will need a greater length of screw tip showing than others.
On the throat A key, remove the cork or other material in the recess and clean it well. If you have to, burnish it smooth so the screw tip will run smoothly across it when in use.
On B&H clarinets they have the annoying problem of the spring screw hole being drilled all the way through the throat A key, so you'll have to glue something into the recess so the adjusting screw tip doesn't catch in the spring screw hole. A piece of thin rubberised cork coated with graphite will do the trick unless you can fill in the screw hole with hard solder and drill and retap it for the flat spring (which may also need to be replated due to the high temperature).
If there isn't much of a recess on the throat A key (usually on older clarinets that haven't got an adjusting screw fitted to the G# key, but you want to add one), then file it deeper and paper up and burnish it smooth.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2014-09-06 20:15)
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-09-06 20:38
Paul: curious that you are the only other to mention the need of a slight gap between the A and G# keys. In addition to the possible slight inequality of pad expansion, there is also thermal expansion of the keys to consider. I know a professional (I am definitely not) who was having intermittent problems with a leak. At one point, I was there when the problem occurred. I was able to correct the problem in seconds by just slightly backing off the adjusting screw. He told me that he had learned to tighten the screw until it just touched because, for some reason, the shop always managed to leave a tiny gap there. The gap can be quite small, but it is critical for consistent operation.
I am thankful that, as a student, I had a band director who required us to write annual essays on the care, maintenance, and repair of our own instruments. He even read and commented on them when they were turned in. He expected us to do real research and preferred that we cover less obvious topics like this one.
Post Edited (2014-09-06 20:49)
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2014-09-06 22:36
Thanks Chris for the explanation, very helpful, as always.
--
Ben
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Author: pewd
Date: 2014-09-06 23:57
Gap- there should be a small gap -0.01" or so, for all the reasons mentioned above, thermal expansion being the most obvious one.
The noise the OP mentioned -
First you need to make sure you know where the problem is coming from:
Many clarinets have a small slot under the A key for the spring to move in, and often times there is a small piece of steel in that slot. If its squeaking, a drop of key oil usually fixes it. Sometimes I see rust on this piece of metal - sand it off, add a drop of oil, and the noise disappears. A more permanent fix is to replace the steel with teflon. I believe Feree's tools sells teflon sheets. Make sure its etched on one side, so that glue will stick.
As mentioned above, if the adjusting screw is plastic, like on most Buffet's, then there should be no noise between the G#/A key. If you have a metal adjusting screw, replace it with a teflon one (any repair shop should stock them).
Good luck.
- Paul Dods
Dallas, Texas
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Author: Jim22
Date: 2014-09-07 05:38
I had a problem on my clarinet where there was some wear and the screw ran out of adjustment. I glued a small piece of sheet polystyrene to the key. Has been good for a couple years.
Jim C.
CT, USA
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