 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: RWitt001
Date: 2014-08-26 04:06
I have been reading these boards for a few weeks now, since I decided I would buy myself a clarinet.
I used to play approx 14 years ago in high school and was intermediate level back then (jazz band, concert band, achieved my Grade 2 AMEB for solo clarinet) but I only rented my clarinet from school and never owned one.
Against the prevailing advice on here I recently purchased a second hand clarinet which seems to be good - I finally received it yesterday - a Schreiber 6010s.
Back in the day I didn't know anything about reed quality and the local music store only stocked standard Rico reeds, so that's what I used in a 2.5
The clarinet I just got came with 6 leftover (new) Vandoren blue in a 2 so I thought I would be fine with that...
It seems very hard to produce sound in the lower and higher registers - higher more so. This was not what I was expecting. Also the reeds seem extremely dry - I have to keep licking them while I play, which is also not what I remember doing way back when. I also never 'broke in' a reed, just whet it and away we went.
Considering the clarinet is only 3 years old I doubt the reeds will be any older that that, so why would it be so difficult being that it is not an overly hard #? The mouthpiece I am using is a Yamaha 4C but I just ordered a Clark Fobes Debut which should arrive today along with some Vandoren blue 1.5 reeds.
Is this likely to help or is it merely because I am out of form?
Any advice for a second time rounder?
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Author: kdk
Date: 2014-08-26 05:01
Your problem seems unlikely to be caused by the reeds. Especially if you tried more than one of them. It's possible the Fobes mouthpiece may solve the problem, so you may as well wait until that arrives. I doubt if #1-1/2 Vandorens will work well on the Debut - it should be too soft. But if the Debut isn't an improvement, don't wait too long before having a repair tech (one recommended to you as competent by someone you know who plays clarinet successfully) look at the clarinet to see if he can find an explanation.
Meanwhile, look carefully yourself for any pads that look torn, that you can see daylight underneath, that look brittle or dried out. If you want to investigate a little more on your own, cut a strip of thin paper (cigarette paper or something like it) and lay the end under each pad at four different positions around the pad's circumference - think 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. Let the pad close on the paper at each spot and see if there's good contact. If any pad you check this way doesn't make firm contact - the paper pulls out freely with no drag, that's a potential leak and probably part of your problem.
It isn't as if you've never successfully played before. The basic approach is still in your muscles, just not the strength or the refinement. It should be easier than you're describing.
Karl
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-08-26 07:10
Just to diagnose the presence of a problem I'd do a suction test. Take upper joint and close the tone holes with corresponding thumb and fingers. Stop the bottom end with the heel of your right hand and put your mouth on the top end kinda like you were going to play it like a trumpet. Now attempt to suck the air out of the inside of the horn. It should hold for a few seconds even to the extent of making a "popping" sound when you release (with either fingers or the right palm). If it doesn't even begin to hold a seal, then there is a leak and you can proceed with the above recommended search for the offending pad(s). Of course finding the problem pad(s) is only really helpful if you can change it out yourself (not recommended for the uninitiated).
Testing the bottom joint is the same process but you also have to hold down the low E/B key with your RH pinky.
...............Paul Aviles
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2014-08-26 08:29
Hi RWitt001. That's good advice you've been given here.
The Clarinet (Schreiber 6010s)you got second hand is an excellent beginners plastic Clarinet. It has silver plated mechanism which looks very nice with the shiny black plastic body of the instrument. I assume it also has the wrap around speaker key whereas the resonance tube extends almost 3mm outside therefore minimizing the obstruction within the bore, an excellent design feature.
I have one , and together with my Jupiter student Clarinet is one of my favourite Clarinets. I purchased mine new about 4 years ago from Sax & Woodwind Camperdown NSW and it came with a plastic molded mouthpiece, an ESM F3A. which works just fine on this instrument. As mentioned above, the Clark Fobes Debut may also work very well on it. I use a variety of Vandoren mouthpieces on my 6010s including the standard B40 with success. Also , if you can , try the Hite MP as well.
If your Clarinet has the wrap around speaker key , be careful putting the tuning barrel on that you don't make contact with this part of the mechanism as it's easy to bend out of alinement and therefore not sealing the speaker key tone hole. Check to see if that hasn't already happen as it may be the cause of the problems you're having.
BJV
"The Clarinet is not a horn"
Skyfacer
Post Edited (2014-08-26 08:46)
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2014-08-26 12:12
RWitt001,
I notice that your isp is in Melbourne. I'm just up the hill in Emerald, so if you'd like me to have a quick look at your clarinet, just click on my name and contact me via email. It's unlikely to be anything major and may well be a 2 minute fix.
Tony F.
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Author: Barry Vincent
Date: 2014-08-27 02:52
Hi again RWitt001. Here's is my review of the Schreiber 6010s
REVIEW Schreiber 6010 Bb Clarinet.(17 Keys / 6 Rings)
Recently got my new Schreiber 6010 Clarinet from Sax & Woodwind of Camperdown NSW. The cost of this instrument was $Aus595.($US522) and it will be used as another of my 'knock-about instruments for outdoor use ect. It was ready to play, straight out of the case, no adjustments required. The serial # is 411426 and is entirely made in Germany. It is apparently a German made (Buffet) B12 with certain German features such as a wrap-around speaker key and possibly some sort of German bore.
The thing that I notice when first handling the instrument in it's case is the weight of it. At first I thought that the case was empty, but it turns out that this clarinet is a light-weight instrument, weighing in at only 690g fully assembled (minus ligature and reed) This Clarinet is a plastic (ABS Resin) instrument with a matt finish giving it the appearance of ebony and it has silver plated key work . Silver plating on a plastic instrument ! Must be a European thing. Anyway the information states that the 6010 has Nickel Silver key work and Silver plating. The mechanism is of the lighter type that could be described as 'elegant'. No chunky key work here. I have already did a weeks playing on it and the key work is strong. But then I don't use heavy handed fingering. It has a wrap around speaker key which is an old idea. Looks rather 'sexy' . I have noticed that the resonate tube is about half a centimetre lower down the pipe than the other standard type and the bore intrusion is only about 3mm. It is stated that there is improved intonation because of the special positioning of the register tube. This Clarinet does seem to play very well in tune across it's entire compass and goes to show that there has been considerable improvement in the making of plastic Clarinets in recent times. My own testing of the intonation is to play along with orchestral backing CDs. I have no trouble playing in tune with this instrument and no need to do any serious adjusting to play in tune, but I suspect that as this is a basic beginners Clarinet the intonation would be 'set'. A nice safe' Clarinet for beginners . It has a 15mm bore . It comes with one barrel (65mm) and is said to be tuned to A442. The usual student mouthpiece is supplied, a moulded plastic ESM.
One thing I have noticed however is that the lower joint flares suddenly about one centimetre just before the bell. It appears that the makers have done some sort of a German type bore. However, the bell has a very small (less than 1mm) flange and this results in the lower joint not matching up with the bell. When assembled and looking into the bell you can see a 'step-down of about 1 mm. This doesn't seem to have any effect on the intonation.
Back to the key work , one nice feature that I have noticed is that the right-hand E/B key is extended about 5mm further than the other keys of the right-hand 'pinkie' keys. I think this feature should be on all Clarinets. The 'crow's foot' is a bit on the thin side but has a nice layer of nylon on it (for quietness) which adds to it's strength. As for the rest of the key work, as I mentioned before , it is elegantly made with nice roundish (spoon like) keys. No skimping of metal underneath either. It has a nicely made thumb rest with 4 adjustment positions. I assume that the elongated set screw is also for hooking on a neck strap for use by young players if necessary. This thumb-rest has no cork on it though but is nicely sculpted for the thumb.
There is one feature that is a disappointment however in that this Clarinet has inherited that stupid Buffet idea of using nylon pins for the left-hand E/B and F#/C# keys. Anyone who 'bangs' down on these keys is going to find later on that they may very well shear off , and then it's a major repair job , perhaps to replace them with metal pins and gold-beaters skin. They are being used to give 'quietness' to the action and it must be said that all the mechanism has a nice quiet action to it. The pads are of the double fish-skin type and seem to seal very well.
All up , this is an excellent Clarinet for beginners to start on , light weight with nicely sculpted ergonomic key work and the price will suit those on a tight budget but still want to have a well made Clarinet which is in tune with itself.
But Ebonite or wood it ain't . I have a lot of fun with these fantastic plastic Clarinets , in that I try to improve on the tonal quality of them. Not that a plastic Clarinet doesn't have a nice sound , they do , but it's kinda on the bright (lighter) side of things. How to get a 'darker' sound out of them and perhaps more projection as well ? Well, by matching these plastic Clarinets up with a higher quality mouthpiece and a better quality barrel , the results can be very interesting. I'm using a Vandoran B40 Lyra with one of Tom Ridenours fat Ebonite barrels on both this Clarinet and also the Jupiter 631 and I end up with a Clarinet that has a full bodied, lovely 'round' sound , good enough for most of the jobs that I do , such as weddings, quite often outdoors in all kinds of weather, and the usual play outs at retirement villages ect.
Welcome to the modern world of quality non wooden Clarinets.
BJV
"The Clarinet is not a horn"
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