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Re: Adjusting V12s

Author: ThatPerfectReed
Date: 2014-05-21 03:43

I respect the findings of those who find their experiences may be talking more off the tip of their reeds than they like. As the name implies, Against the Grain (ATG) removes material from the reed as one approaches the reed from its tip.

By no means do I speak for Ridenour Clarinet Products (RCP) on this but would like to say the following.

Anyone who owns the reed adjusting tool that comes with the kit can certainly vouch for the fact that the abrasive affixed to it--I suspect by design--is contoured such that its lowest point (closest to the reed) is at the midpoint of its longer length's width.

Notice that when Tom hits the reed head on here, http://youtu.be/r5d77k6FENQ?t=5m2s (1 of 5 finishing techniques) he is interfacing the tool with the reed such that 1) the tool's longer length is perpendicular to the reed, and that for this technique 2) he doesn't pass this aforementioned midpoint. This, at least for me, (and I suspect by design), has the abrasive better conform to the increasing thickness of the reed as one makes their way in a direction from the reed's tip to it's base (but by no means gets passed the tip.

This is not only mentioned in the manual, but if you take the time to understand the ideas that led to the tool's shape, I think intuitive.

Are people that report thinned tips passing this midpoint? I hope not. Maybe not.

Were the tool simply a block of wood, I would agree that the reed tip might take a "hard hit" during such Againt The Grain like adjustment. But the tool is designed I suspect to have the abrasive closely match a reed's contour so as to not overthin the tip. I've never used the tool such that its shorter lengths were the first point of contact with the reed, as the aforementioned contour is not maintained in that direction of attack of the reed.

Perhaps pressure and orientation of the tool play a role. All I can say is that when I use the tool, the only vector I'm trying to manipulate is how close or far the tool is from the reed. There is not change to the lightest of pressure applied downward, nor change in the tool's height, angle of attack, i.e. my wrist is locked.

I'd also recommend use of the abrasives Tom suggests, which are no-load and wet/dry. The fomer means that you can in large part flick off wood dust from the abrasive after finishing a reed if need be, even cleaning it with water, and continue on to the next reed--not that the abrasive doesn't require periodic replacement in order to remove reed material, and do so consistently across all sections of the abrasive.

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