 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Ben Shaffer
Date: 2014-04-09 01:58
new Adult Learner here...
quick question ..
How tight should you tighten the Ligature screw....
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Patrick Sikes
Date: 2014-04-09 02:06
Experiment. Use a recorder at different distances. Vary your demonstration playing. See what you like.
There are too many variables to even put in categorical generalizations...almost. To me, it seems that play is easier the looser the screws are. But more secure and "projecting" the tighter they are (within reason). But that's just me, with my morphology, setup, and sensibilities.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Clarimeister
Date: 2014-04-09 00:08
I've always gone with the notion that the ligature should be just snug enough to hold the reed to the mouthpiece. Too tight and the sound or response might get "choked" for lack of a better term and too loose and the reed will move all over the place. If it's a metal ligature for example (I use a standard bonade that's been gold plated) i tighten the screws just to the point where they catch and tighten, no tighter, no looser. If it's a fabric or mesh ligature probably a little bit more snug than where it catches on the threads. Hope this helps.
Post Edited (2014-04-09 04:09)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2014-04-09 04:40
I second Clarimeister's thoughts.
But I find it a major inconvenience if the ligature doesn't hold the reed still on the mouthpiece when I change clarinets. I am discovering that some ligatures I've tried recently make me tighten them more than I usually have in the past or the reed slips every time I move the mouthpiece. So I've compromised and gone a little tighter than just what's needed to hold the reed still while I'm playing, I don't think with any unintended consequences to tone or response. Too tight and I think my reeds lose vibrancy.
So my suggestion now would be to tighten just enough to hold the reed *securely* while rotating the mouthpiece to position it or removing it to change instruments. Of course if you aren't an orchestra player and don't routinely change instruments in the course of a rehearsal or performance, you may not need it so tight. In that case, tightening the screws "just to the point where they catch and tighten, no tighter, no looser" seems about right.
But do experiment. The only rule that really matters here is to do what functions, sounds and responds best.
Karl
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: TomS
Date: 2014-04-09 05:30
Try rubber "O" rings. You will need some with the material thickness of about 1/8 to 5/32 of an inch and one with the diameter of a quarter and one with the diameter of a nickle (sorry non-US folks ... don't have the conversion numbers).
Guaranteed to open the sound up. Sounds at least 3-4 dB louder to your ears.
Most hardware stores will have them ... take your MP and reed and find some that fit. Total cost for one set: about $1.25.
This will be a very compliant, but secure enough setup and you can just wiggle the reed around on the MP table for adjustments. I've never had a reed shift on me while playing.
I've bought a bunch and passed them out at rehearsals ... and with good feedback.
They will stretch after a few months, so you will have to buy new ones.
Tom
Post Edited (2014-04-09 02:22)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: TomS
Date: 2014-04-09 05:46
Of course, the disadvantage is finding or modifying a MP cap that will fit over the O rings.
It's also a disaster for orchestra use, unless you have two (or three) complete setups ... swapping your MP from B-flat to A and C will shift the reed as you grab it ... and you will have to guess where the best playing position was for the reed.
Some players swap the MP and barrel as one chunk, so not a problem doing this.
Tom
Post Edited (2014-04-09 05:47)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-04-09 06:12
There is no "should" here at all. But I do both "tighten like crazy" (when the the air is particularly dry and the reeds tend to warp up off the table in the middle) and leave them "as loose as possible" (in better condition; when the reed is really stable - this allows a good reed maximum resonance).
...........Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: johng ★2017
Date: 2014-04-09 17:36
Something else worth mentioning is the problem of over-tightening which can literally crush fibers of the reed or break the ligature. I sometimes use a very light Charles Bay ligature that one can easily break if tightened too much. Most standard ligatures are made to withstand a firm hand on the screws, but I agree with the others that making it tight enough to hold the reed on while changing clarinets is what I go for unless the reed seems to need extra tightness to play well.
John Gibson, Founder of JB Linear Music, www.music4woodwinds.com
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ursa
Date: 2014-04-09 14:01
On clarinet, I use Rovner Dark ligatures tightened up until I can feel a sudden increase in resistance in the tension nut as I tighten it. Keeping the bolt threads lubricated with cork grease makes this a much more precise operation.
On sax, I tighten up my standard ligatures snugly, then back off the screws a quarter turn. Lubricating the screws lubricated with cork grease, again, ensures precision. Perfect every time!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2014-04-09 16:55
Gigliotti ligatures are notorious for the screw heads' shearing off the theaded shaft if you over-tighten them. Gigliotti was always very defensive about it and tended to blame the player for over-tightening the screws. After he and his first wife separated, she ran the mouthpiece and accessories business until the divorce and she actually gave me a bag of extra screws to use as replacements when I or a student broke one. Over several years I used up the whole bag.
Karl
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2014-04-09 18:51
The degree of tightness is very dependant on design of the ligature.
Ligatures screws that apply pressure virtually directly on the reed (e.g. the Vandoren Optimum) require very little tightening to exert a high pressure on the reed.
Conversely those where the screw is opposite side from reed (e.g. Vandoren leather) need much more tightening as the clamping force has to overcome the friction on the ligature sides as it tries to stretch around the sides of the mouthpiece.
Actual ligature material (e.g. Rovner, Rico, Vandoren etc) and the resultant coefficients of friction comes markedly into play.
I tend to go with the feelings that enough to prevent reed being moved when changing mouthpiece is a pragmatic choice.
Or choose a clarinet model where you can use the same barrel on Bb and A.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: marcia
Date: 2014-04-10 08:35
I agree with the "tight enough to keep the reed in place when changing instruments" idea. And lots of grease on the cork also helps.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Siq
Date: 2014-04-11 04:47
I have a Rovner Light and most of the times I just do as I please, with no consistency, basically because I have no idea what to do.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
