 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-03-25 20:27
There are loads of synthetic pads on the market, some better than others. Neoprene has been used for pads for a while now in all manner of combinations with other materials.
I prefer cork pads to be honest.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-03-25 21:37
cork is problematic for sax-sized pads.. also neoprene doesn't crack. On other hand hard to imagine floating neoprene pad, and with cork you can always use a thin strip of sand paper for final adjustment.
agree everyone has their preferred pad; my pers favorite is kengaroo pad from instrumentclinic. Didn't take it a part but I think he might be using some type of synthetic btw cardboard backing and leather.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-03-25 21:46
I believe Bill Street had used this material for some time. It IS both silent and excellent for a really good seal. The drawback is that oils (key oil and bore oil) will "melt" the neoprene if they come in contact with the pad.
.................Paul Aviles
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Author: kilo
Date: 2014-03-25 22:26
Quote:
I believe Bill Street had used this material for some time.
He was using it in 1979.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-03-26 00:30
"and with cork you can always use a thin strip of sand paper for final adjustment."
I wouldn't ever recommend doing that at all - that will create an uneven deep impression on the pad which can cause a leak. I've seen cork pads seated like this and they didn't look good. You're best grinding the face of a cork pad down progressively with several grades of abrasive (pumice or similar, so long as it's perfectly flat) and seat the pad to the tonehole by floating it on shellac checking the pad is seating all the way round with a feeler gauge.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Wes
Date: 2014-03-26 01:38
In 1958, I bought a new Artley Symphony flute which came with solid synthetic pads, kind of like neoprene. It worked great for a few years, but eventually became stickey. It was recommended and provided to me by Ben Kanter, my teacher at the time, who got it at the wholesale house.
Recently, I repadded a Series 9 Selmer Eb clarinet with cork pads. By rounding the back side of the cork pads, they all self seated themselves with the key spring pressure when the shellac was heated. It was very easy and the Ferree's cork pads are very smooth and flat.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-03-26 02:03
"By rounding the back side of the cork pads, they all self seated themselves with the key spring pressure when the shellac was heated."
That's what I do - it allows the pads to move around in the pad cups much easier than if the backs were left flat. If they're too light on one side and while the shellac is still molten, put a strip of writing paper between the pad and tonehole, lightly close the pad against the tonehole and the pad will shift and seat itself properly.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-03-26 13:40
@Chris, re:
"and with cork you can always use a thin strip of sand paper for final adjustment."
"I wouldn't ever recommend doing that at all - that will create an uneven deep impression on the pad which can cause a leak. I've seen cork pads seated like this and they didn't look good."
+++++++++
Not to start a religious war, but it isn't a clear cut; sometimes you have to. It's kinda necessary on non-beveled C#/G#. Also to seal old hardened pad w/o replacing. And if you use fine grit it doesn't look too bad, really.
Personally on re-pad the only place I use cork is on registry key to avoid stickiness, kangaroo on all others. They seem to seal better, esp on beat up toneholes. Everyone has own preferences I suppose..
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-03-26 14:01
Provided you've got a perfectly level and blemish-free tonehole bedplace to seat a cork pad onto, they will pretty much seat themselves with little or no fuss.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2014-03-29 07:44
I recently repadded my series 9 Bb with cork on the register key and everything else kangaroo. Everything seated easily and very well. I have fallen in love with kangaroo pads. I have seen the suggestion that kangaroo pads be maintained by closing them on a sheet of writing paper with a little Old English furniture polish on it and then pulling the paper out. Anyone have any experience with this aspect?
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Author: JEG ★2017
Date: 2014-04-02 09:52
Bill Street repadded my A clarinet with mostly neoprene pads around 1974, and my B-flat clarinet in the early 80s, and they lasted until he did complete overhauls in 2008 and 2009. I never had problems with them, and they are impervious to oil, including key oil and bore oil. Neoprene is used on the soles of work shoes designed to be used in environments where the shoes are exposed to gasoline, etc., so key oil and bore oil should not hurt them.
They will compress over time on the keys that remain closed, however, but not a great amount, in my opinion.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2014-04-02 12:00
Dear JEG,
Thank you for the correction. I have avoided this material over the years for what is turning out to be false premise.
..........Paul Aviles
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Author: cyclopathic
Date: 2014-04-02 23:00
@ BartHX
> I have seen the suggestion that kangaroo pads be maintained by closing
> them on a sheet of writing paper with a little Old English furniture polish on
> it and then pulling the paper out. Anyone have any experience with this
> aspect?
kangaroo seems to be less sticky then kid leather pads. I have cleaned kid pads with hand sanitizer on thin cloth, not sure if something like Old English or Murphy soap would be a better choice.
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