The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Chrisspr
Date: 2014-01-07 19:07
I learnt to play on a B&H Regent back in 1956, my daughter has that instrument now. These days I have a number of clarinets three of which are B&H's. a. A 2-20 b. An Edgware & c. A Regent, all are wooden of the three I enjoy the 2-20 the most. The timber used on the Regent is beautifully figured which makes me want to renovate it although the RH., C trill key is broken. However the Regent is new (to me) and under reconstruction. I wish to fit some PROPER keys and I find that the keys of both of the other two B&H instruments fit but both of those have "straight" hands on the RH C trill key whereas the Regents' is bent or set towards the tenon. So:
Does anybody know just what old crock could be a donor of all proper forged silver plated keys of correct Regent configuration, some posts, some steels & some needle screws?
Does anybody know what the timber is that has been used? The timber is well figured and is to some degree a brown/black colour. Could it Cocobolo, Grenadilla or is it some other timber simply listed under African-Black-Wood.
H Chris Spreckley
You never know there just might be a 1939 Selmer BA., Tennor, or a very posh Buffet Clarinette at the local car boot sale for the price of a beer. O'no, now stop dreaming or you might start getting really fussy.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-01-07 14:28
B&H used grenadilla (African blackwood) for their wooden clarinets which is variable in colour from a reddish-brown to jet black. I've got a B&H Marlborough (same as a 2-20 or Edgware) which has very figured brown grenadilla. They didn't stain the joints but polished them which shows up the grain pattern. Other makers use alcohol based stain to make the joints all look uniform (eg. Buffet E13 through to R13/RC) and others paint the joints for the same reason (eg. Schreiber/Buffet E11),
Windcraft list some B&H keys, but chances are they're nickel plated which isn't a problem as silver pate can be applied onto nickel plate should you want silver plated keywork. Only problem is as your Regent is from the '50s, they changed the keywork design around the 190000-200000 mark so not all later style keywork may fit. You're best looking for a donor Edgware (or Edgware stencil) of a similar serial number (under200000) to be certain the keys will be a better fit.
You can tell the earlier style keywork from the later as the bridge key has been reversed with the flared end on the LH2 ring instead of the RH rings, the earlier ones had cut-outs for the flat springs, the ring keys were different(you'll have to look at them to see this)and the laterones had a single trill key guide instead of two.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chrisspr
Date: 2014-01-07 20:38
Chris Thank you very much for the reply, it seems very concise but never the less I will take some time to totally evaluate it.
However I have already asked Windcraft - without luck.
As I said I have physically tried the keys from an Edgware which more or less fit but the hand of the C trill key is straight and I would like the key to be as the original which I'm sure you know is bent or set towards the joints tenon.
Very many thanks Chris, I have some questions (undreds) to ask you about a Howarth Oboe S.No. 1783 that I have procured and am struggling to understand and regulate, but I don't want to overcrowd your very valuable space and time at this time.
Cheers, and many thanks
Chris Spreckley
You never know there just might be a 1939 Selmer BA., Tennor, or a very posh Buffet Clarinette at the local car boot sale for the price of a beer. O'no, now stop dreaming or you might start getting really fussy.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-01-07 20:54
Do you mean the lowest of the RH side keys points straight down instead of being [ENTER]
at right angles to the key arm? These side Bb key touches were fitted in the '60s [ENTER]
on Edgwares and Emperors - possibly on the 926 as well. The earlier B&H clarinets [ENTER]
had a shorter C#/G# touchpiece that looked like a leaf with a pointed tip - the later [ENTER]
ones had a longer touchpiece arm with an asymmetric touchpiece with a rouned [ENTER]
end.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chrisspr
Date: 2014-01-08 15:05
Chris,
Are you saying that the lower RH trill key on intermediates is not as the straight leaf" variety if built in the 60's.
It is two of the "straight" leafed keys that I have trill both fit quite well but were a wee bit tight to their neighbour, the next higher trill key. Not inoperable by any means but if I may use the word, laboured. My real desire is to get without these horrid bubbled like surfaced keys, supply and fit nicely silver plated ones as of say the 2-20 but in the true pattern of the Regents of the Fifties.
What models are there please that provide this, do Resonite Regents?
Hope you can help.
Chris S.
You never know there just might be a 1939 Selmer BA., Tennor, or a very posh Buffet Clarinette at the local car boot sale for the price of a beer. O'no, now stop dreaming or you might start getting really fussy.
Post Edited (2014-01-08 15:09)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-01-08 10:43
An Edgware from the '50s (in the mid to high 100000s) will have the correct style keywork for the wooden Regent - they're often listed on eBay but look for one with cracked joints but with complete keywork instead of a fully functional one. They'll be nickel plated, but they can be silver plated and then fitted (you'll need a 2.2mm reamer for the key barrels).
The side Eb/Bb and F# keys are normally golf club-shaped on '50s B&H clarinets, but on later ones (from the '60s) has the longer German/Oehler style side Eb/Bb touchpiece that points straight downwards.
Here's a '50s Edgware with the US spec bell (with metal bell ring):
http://www.clarinetperfection.com/galleryclar/BH/Edgeware/2.jpg
Just seen this old pricelist for B&H clarinets which makes for interesting reading:
http://www.clarinetperfection.com/galleryclar/BH/B&H_PriceList.jpg
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chrisspr
Date: 2014-01-08 23:22
Chris-P,
Thank you very much for the information. The cheapest clarinet seems to be the Plastic Regent but as you do not mention it then presumably the key-work is not compatible (?). I'll look out for a busted Edgware, but I don't think that I have ever seen one advertised but I will of course keep looking meanwhile I'll rebuild the Regent with its own keys and borrow one off one of the others to get it regulated. However I don't like doing this as almost inevitably it will then stay with its poxy, erupting cast key-work. There are a good number of cheapish Regents for sale at the moment on eBay. If the keys would fit perhaps you could let me know
That's an amazing pic/pricelist. I know my dad paid £18 for my Regent in 1958 second hand, bought privately and locally in Manchester. I still have the bill; my daughter has the clarinet.
The one that I am rebuilding is commemoration of the one my daughter has as she as sure as eggs are eggs considers it hers. It started life with me performing all the learning tricks of key gazing and reed splitting and went on to front line the 'Johnny Mayall Power House Four' whilst at the Manchester College of art (ScofArch) along with John. Happy days.
Chris S.
You never know there just might be a 1939 Selmer BA., Tennor, or a very posh Buffet Clarinette at the local car boot sale for the price of a beer. O'no, now stop dreaming or you might start getting really fussy.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
|