 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: ms.ace
Date: 2013-01-24 12:09
I'm aware that everyone will their own opinions on what are the best clarinet pads, this goes without saying. However, I've just purchased a used Leblanc Artist 45 series that's about 36 years old, grenadilla. It's in great condition but definetly needs a set of new pads, I was wondering if anyone had recommendations. Preferably the pros and cons of different kinds of pads (i.e. fishkin, leather, etc). Thanks for your help!
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2013-01-24 12:52
after many years of trying many kinds, I used cork and white kid leather. Difficult to install and adjust, but worth it.
richard smith
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Author: dperreno
Date: 2013-01-24 13:02
Hmmm... That's like asking a bunch of car guys which is the better motor oil!
The good thing is that you'll probably get a nice laundry list of all the different types and brands of pads to choose from. Personally, I think a lot of the decision will depend on who is doing the work -- make sure your technician is familiar with the specific type/brand of pad that you want. Or conversely, if you have a tech that you want to use, ask him or her what types of pads they prefer or recommend. I'm sure all techs regularly deal with fishskin and leather pads, but some might not be as familiar with Omni pads, for example.
Personally, I like leather for older clarinets (cork for the register key). I don't think they play any better, but I do believe they are longer lasting (I have no proof for that, it's just my perception) and nice looking. Besides, it just seems appropriate that an instrument that has withstood the test of time should be rewarded with some bling!
Doug
Post Edited (2013-01-24 16:28)
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-01-24 13:10
Cork pads
sound projects - others can give their description; keys need to be fit well (no slop); reasonably long lived; increased key noise.
Bladder (many types available)
shorter life span; sound is... what your used to; more forgiving than cork for small tone hole variations and play in keys.
Valentino Masters
Very consistent and long lived; needs good key fit and good tone hole hole prep. Sound projects well - perhaps not as much as cork. long lasting. Somewhat squishy for open keys (the ones you press)
Valentino Greenbacks
Soft pad. Consistent, reasonably tolerant of key play and small tone hole inconsistencies. Sound not as bright. IMHO not good for any of the open keys.
Omni pads. Another synthetic Similar material to Greenbacks but a thinner layer over a firm plastic based. Not as squishy. Sound probably similar to Greenbacks
Leather (many many variations in felt, leather and leather treatment)
Pad surface not as consistent. Pads themselves may not seal as well. Not as long lasting as the synthetics. Cork probably last longer too.
Presently, I still like bladder for the open keys. I can't get the key feel and response with synthetics. I want the finger to come down and the note to come out without feeling any squishiness. Especially important for quick passages. Some player complain of not being able to do legato with the bottom 2 pads when they have synthetics installed there.
I'm between Valentino Masters and cork for most of the upper joint closed keys. Cork can still seal better than any other pad. It is easy to bevel for those keys that benefit from extra venting.
I've not much demand for leather on a soprano clarinet. There seems to be increased interest lately.
I could keep going on. I might put 4 to 5 different pads in a clarinet to achieve the results I desire. Kind of crazy, but it isn't obvious when you look at the clarinet.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-24 14:10
Leather pads are popular in Germany and also in the UK where clarinets are often repadded with leather pads throughout. But some peather pads can be very porous unless they're treated, then some treated leather pads can be very sticky, so it's a case of finding a leather pad that's both airtight and non-stick for the best outcome.
I prefer to use cork pads almost throughout - usually the entire top joint and also the lower joint ring key and RH B/F# 'sliver' key pads or even the Ab/Eb if the pad cup isn't too large (over 15mm internal diameter), then use leather pads in the largest pad cups (either brown or white - the colour doesn't have any effect on sound).
Sometimes I will use both cork and leather if that's what the customer wants, so I'd cork pad keys that are low-lying as cork pads will withstand getting wet better than leather pads. But in every case I use a bevelled pad in the speaker key to reduce hiss.
But with cork pads, the toneholes have to be absolutely perfectly level and free from any chips, nicks, open pores and other imperfections which will cause leaks, so toneholes have to be dealt with before installing cork pads which themselves have to be chosen for the best ones with no imperfections and then ground flat and smooth before installing so they seat against the tonehole properly, so there is a lot of preparation to do before installing cork pads.
But once installed, cork pads should last for years. I overhauled a local player's set of Leblanc Concertos around ten years back and all the cork pads have lasted very well, and he does a lot of teaching and orchestral playng which has put them through their paces. Glad to see how well they've held up in all that time (although I had to replace the leather pads as they had hardened) and that's a good recommendation for using cork pads.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2013-01-24 22:22
The leather experience I had would indicate you'd be served well by doing some light monthly maintenance to keep them from drying out and cracking. Definitely more popular in Germany than here.
I am particularly fond of the Kraus Omni pads and had a horn completely outfitted with them. Since they are made of several discrete layers of foam (unlike the unibody style of the basic Valentinos) they are firmer and play much more like cork. Cork does last a long time but I've seen synthetic look and play like brand new after ten years of hard service. So if the lasting ability (read cost effectiveness) is an important factor I'd lean in the Omni direction.
If you are not a seriously adept repair person I'd seek out one to do the job since installing cork, leather and Omni pads requires more skill than just tossing them in.
......................Paul Aviles
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2013-01-24 22:38
The skill and accuracy of installation is far more important than the material.
For an instrument of that quality and age I would suggest good quality skin pads or alternatively good leather.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-24 22:46
Although skin pads are often thought of being made from fish skin or fish bladders, they aren't but are in fact made from sausage skin which is a thin membrane from cow intestines. Same stuff as goldbeater's skin and used for making gut strings as well.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2013-01-24 22:47)
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Author: Ed
Date: 2013-01-25 00:36
I have had synthetic on my clarinets for some time now. They seal great and really last a long time. I have had no complaints with them.
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-01-25 12:12
Regarding omnipads. There are at least 6 variations. Different foam thicknesses, different pad thicknesses, different foam firmness. Not every tone hole "wants the same style.
Steve Ocone
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2013-01-25 13:12
Valentino masters for the upper joint and the small lower joint pads, however they require impeccable tone hole rims.
For not-so-perfect instruments (and those beaters where the required tone hole work cannot be justified) I'd go for softer synthetics, as well as for the one under the throat A touchpiece and the uppermost on the lower joint.
For the "big ones" on the lower joint, I'd take traditional "skin" or leather pads.
--
Ben
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2013-01-25 18:52
I used the large Kraus Omni pads on the largest tone holes with no adverse affects. There is a little more noise (popping) but not enough to discourage me from using a pad that should last forever and seal like cork!
....................Paul Aviles
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Author: kdk ★2017
Date: 2013-01-25 19:18
Who is going to install them? If this is a DIY project, it may affect your choice - some pads are easier to level than others. If a repair tech is going to do it, he/she may have strong preferences, especially about what *not* to use (because he doesn't like working with them).
Karl
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-25 19:30
Leather pads are more forgiving for a novice to work with, but they still have to be seated and seal properly.
Under no circumstances can a pad be made or forced to seat with excess pressure by clamping it down onto the tonehole - while it may work in the short term, it will soon recover and you'll get leaks soon enough.
You don't play with a gorilla grip, so all pads have to be seated and checked using light finger pressure or lightly holding closed-standing keys.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-27 03:35
Hi All,
I am new to the BBoard, New to music, And new to the clarinet. I am learning to play the clarinet on my own as I am on a very fixed income and cannot afford an instructor at this time. I have a S.M.L.clarinet that I brought over 20yrs. Ago with the intention of learning to play when I retired. Well the clarinet was put in a closet and forgotten I even forgot I had it. (out of sight out of mind) it was just found recently, Well I took it out of the case and it still looked like when I originally brought it, I cleaned and polished up all the keys and brought a new reed and tried to play it and it worked, I had some books and I started to learn That was 3 months ago,
The cork was starting to become loose, the cork on the mouthpiece fell off and the center cork was very loose the two joints were flapping in the breeze and being on a fixed income I have no way to take it to get it fixed, until I saw a youtube video on replacing tenon corks, well I went out and found a roll of natural cork and I followed that video and replaced the corks on all 4 joints and they came out great! Really great,A great video! I also without a video replaced the missing cork from the back of the keys and replaced what was left of the worn out cork on the keys also, Now I never had done anything like that before.
Now the pads are staring to fall out one by one I put them back in heat the cup and they seem to stay for awhile, I need all new pads but again I can not afford to take it to be done, Everyone here makes it out to be the hardest thing in the world to replace pads, You have to learn some place and I have no choice but to try learn and do it myself no one else is going to do it for me.
I found pads online at MusicMedic they are RooPads that seem to be a great pad? I will use a cork pad for the register key, a couple of RooPads for the upper and lower joint maybe synthetics for the rest?As soon as I can come up with the money I like to give it a try, It can't be that hard to do, Any advice would be appreicated, Sorry for the long post.
Thank You
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
Post Edited (2013-01-27 08:35)
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-27 08:39
Hi All,
I am new to the BBoard, New to music, And new to the clarinet. I am learning to play the clarinet on my own as I am on a very fixed income and cannot afford an instructor at this time. I have a S.M.L.clarinet that I brought over 20yrs. Ago with the intention of learning to play when I retired. Well the clarinet was put in a closet and forgotten I even forgot I had it. (out of sight out of mind) it was just found recently, Well I took it out of the case and it still looked like when I originally brought it, I cleaned and polished up all the keys and brought a new reed and tried to play it and it worked, I had some books and I started to learn That was 3 months ago,
The cork was starting to become loose, the cork on the mouthpiece fell off and the center cork was very loose the two joints were flapping in the breeze and being on a fixed income I have no way to take it to get it fixed, until I saw a youtube video on replacing tenon corks, well I went out and found a roll of natural cork and I followed that video and replaced the corks on all 4 joints and they came out great! Really great,A great video! I also without a video replaced the missing cork from the back of the keys and replaced what was left of the worn out cork on the keys also, Now I never had done anything like that before.
Now the pads are staring to fall out one by one I put them back in heat the cup and they seem to stay for awhile, I need all new pads but again I can not afford to take it to be done, Everyone here makes it out to be the hardest thing in the world to replace pads, You have to learn some place and I have no choice but to try learn and do it myself no one else is going to do it for me.
I found pads online at MusicMedic they are RooPads that seem to be a great pad? I will use a cork pad for the register key, a couple of RooPads for the upper and lower joint maybe synthetics for the rest?As soon as I can come up with the money I like to give it a try, It can't be that hard to do, Any advice would be appreicated, Sorry for the long post.
Thank You
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: dperreno
Date: 2013-01-27 17:10
Paul Aviles wrote:
"The leather experience I had would indicate you'd be served well by doing some light monthly maintenance to keep them from drying out and cracking."
What type of maintenance do you recommend?
Doug
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-01-27 18:30
Fred: This will give you a basic starting point http://www.shopforband.com/clarinet_pad_installation.shtml
It is somewhat over simplified, but it is a starting point. I use a drop of hot glue. What takes practice there is getting enough to slightly float the pad, but not so much that it squeezes out the edges. Use a pin to poke a small vent hole in the edge of bladder pads. A tongue depressor can be used as a makeshift pad slick (used to level pads to the tone hole). I also use a triangle of cigarette paper held in locking forceps as a feeler gauge to measure that the pad has equal pressure on the tone hole all the way around. Letting key pressure level a pad to its hole is only good enough for emergency repairs. I have done an emergency pad replacement for a friend during the intermission of a concert. I took the key off to clean the cup. Then I put it back on the instrument (normally closed pad) with a chip of hot glue and a new pad stacked under it. I heated the pad cup with a cigarette lighter until the glue melted and the cup settled around the pad. It worked just fine for the rest of the concert.
Good luck and have fun. There are lots of reference books you might want to read as well, as you are able.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2013-01-27 21:23
The tech who installed my leather pads in Boston recommended the use of "Old English" furniture polish. You just get a bit on a strip of paper so that the paper is slightly damp. Then run the damp paper strip quickly under the pad. That's it. It should only take five minutes to do the whole horn. It's just a matter of remembering, because you don't want the pads to become dry and brittle....... and then crack and not seal.
For easy, inexpensive repadding if you want to do this yourself, I do like the hot glue idea. In addition, you should be able to get a full set of Valentino "greenback" pads (do NOT just stick them in using the self adhesive !!!!) that will have a two-fold advantage. Firstly they are pretty forgiving being foam, so perfect alignment with the tone hole and a perfect surface are not required. Also, they seal fantastically and last a really long time.
I only recommend this for those looking for a decent way to do-it-yourself and save money while getting pretty good results.
................Paul Aviles
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-01-27 22:12
Regarding treating leather pads. Unlike the old days, many (if not most) leather pads available probably already have a durable coating and may not benefit from any treatment.
Bassoon pads (which may also be sold for bass clarinets and could work for clarinets ) often do need a treatment to seal well. The best method at present is silicone caulk material and some powder to eliminate stickiness.
Notice all the "ifs" and vagueness. There are many different leathers and treatments.
I do a lot of sax work - all leather pads.I don't know anyone still treating pads except for stickiness. Even though the pads do get old and hard.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-27 23:43
Hi BartHx,
Thank you for the link, Is it possible to do this with out taking the keys off, Like I mentioned the pads are falling out and I have been putting them back and I have been practicing doing this with the keys on and I think I can do it. The only problem I have is I am not comfortable using a lighter or match to heat the cup when it is still on I am afraid of hitting the wood and burning it.Maybe a micro torch would be better.
I have made or have all the tools I think I need to do this, I made a leveling slick out of an old wide kitchen knife,I attached a needle to a handle to prick the pad and or lift the pad to the cup when the keys are still on.
I was going to buy when I can a shellac stick I think it would be better then hot glue?.I have this negative thing about hot glue I can't really say what it is about hot glue,I read somewhere not to use hot glue but I don't remember where though, Maybe it being stringy as you melt it and it goes everywhere but where you want it or maybe it takes more heat to melt it. I have a piece of the leader from a cassette tape as my feeler gauge I think it is thin enough?. Why is the pressure of the key to level the pad not good enough? Maybe a little finger pressure like if I was going to play that key would help seat it? First I have to figure a way to buy the pads,then I Will I have to try it,It is the only way it is going to get done. I thank you again for the help.
Fred
PS What about the RooPads from MusicMedic are they any good or not,
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-28 00:21
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your advice.
Would the greenback pads be as good as the RooPads from MusicMedic, I have priced all the different pads ( RooPad,for upper and lower joint, a cork pad, and the rest synthetic pads?)I would need and use from them and it came to about $30.00 including the shellac stick seems pretty cheap for supposedly a really good pad? (But unfortunately is not in my budget right now)
When you say to not just stick the greenbacks in do you mean to use glue also? I know from looking at all the tone holes that they are in great condition no chips or any other problems to cause a leak.
Thanks for the tip on using furniture polish.
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2013-01-28 12:05
I believe the Roo pads are made of kangaroo leather. Nothing wrong with them, they should be decent leather pads. But as we've said above, if you have never done this before, this will be a learning attempt.
I don't personally feel comfortable doing a whole clarinet myself. I had learned one pad at a time out of necessity and just stick to that. The Valentino recommendation is that they are the MOST forgiving (very mushy synthetic material......... the reason I DON'T like them for sidekeys). The "green back" pads are billed as self-stick. The self stick concept doesn't work. So you need to either use shellac or hot glue (in this case, whichever you are more comfortable with). Also, hot glue melts using a common hair dryer which makes the process even faster and more convenient (I've witnessed experienced repairmen doing whole horn this way so I know they do this............and still charge $300 to $400 for it - oy!).
Personally I don't think starting off with a full repad as a beginner is a good idea. Particularly if you are doing it out of playing necessity. You'll wind up with some pads pushing in too deep into the cup, some out too far some hopelessly angled, but that's ok, that's called LEARNING. Just don't expect perfection right out of the box.
.................Paul Aviles
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-01-28 13:24
As a repair person, I cringe at some of the posts here. But them again, I would be embarrassed to show a pro some of my home repairs, and this project could be a great education. I would avoid a hair dryer. There are hot air devices for padding, but I've never seen or heard of a hair dryer being used to "float" a pad. It is important to direct the heat so it heats the pad cup only and doesn't heat up the clarinet body. This would be hard with a hair dryer. I use an alcohol lamp and an electrical resistance heater (a split tip soldering gun with the end of the tip cut off).
Some hot glues are less stringy than others. And there is a little learning involved to using them. You could cut off a bit of glue and stick it in the pad cup so it melts when you heat the pad cup.
Synthetic pads are sensitive to heat. You will probably trash a few of them. Leather will be more resistant to excess heat.
Hot melt glues have a longer "open time" - the amount of time the glue (and pad can be shifted before the glue sets. This influences how you will have to work.
Enough for now.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-28 14:51
The best source of heat to use is a smokeless open flame, either from a gas torch, bunsen burner or alcohol lamp. You don't put the entire pad cup directly in the flame while the key is on the instrument, but have the side of the flame glancing the back of the pad cup to avoid scorching the joint surface or burning the pad - even more important when working on plastic bodied instruments.
A hairdryer hasn't got sufficient instant and direct heat as a flame, so it will heat up a much larger area more slowly which is no good as you only want the heat concentrated in one small area.
The Valentino pads came with a card suggesting using a hairdryer and clamping the pads down to seat them, but that's p*** poor advice by any account. Big company or not, that's the worst advice I've ever heard.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2013-01-28 15:05
In a pinch, you can also use a bic lighter (plus an old postcard between key and instrument body as a heat deflector). My field repair kit is too small for a torch of sorts, but a lighter works just fine.
I agree that clamping down is poor practice.
--
Ben
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-01-28 20:11
Except for reattaching a pad that has come loose, I would not try to do the whole process without taking the key off of the instrument. You need to take the time to get the cup as clean as possible or you won't get good adhesion with the new glue. I use a variable temperature heat gun for heating the cups. If I am taking out a pad that was put in with hot glue, it will get the cup hot enough to just wipe it clean with a paper towel. With a lower temperature, I reheat the cup after putting an appropriate size drop of hot glue into it (you could cut a chip instead -- I use that for a field repair) until the drop starts to level. I'll then put in the new pad, remount the key on the instrument and usually have enough time to level the pad before the glue becomes too solid. If I am not quick enough, the heat gun has a well defined air column near the outlet so that I am able to heat the cup without overheating the pad or instrument body. A micro torch should work well, too.
If you are using a slow setting adhesive (eg. liquid shellac) you will need to gently clamp the pad until the adhesive sets. However, for that, you need to be sure that the cup is absolutely aligned with the seat. If it is not, pressure could force the pad all the way to the bottom of the cup and make it out of line with the seat. If you are able to slightly float the pad in the cup, you can accommodate a very slight misalignment of the cup. Trying to use pressure to level a pad with a heat setting adhesive can cause the same sort of problems.
For an emergency field repair, I stack a foam pad, a chip of glue stick, and the pad cup mounted on the instrument. I then heat the cup with a Bic lighter until the glue melts and the cup settles onto the pad with very light pressure. The foam pad (as noted above) is forgiving enough that I have had no problems with this method. If it's just a matter of the pad glue letting go, leave the pad in place and heat the cup to reactivate the glue. However, I have more often found that, with bladder pads, the bladder has torn and the felt separated from the backing chip. In that event, the pad needs to be replaced.
There are a couple of places where you will find more than one, independently operating, pads mounted on the same pivot rod. Do those separately with the other one not in place.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-28 20:36
The best thing to do is if you're planning on doing your own maintenance and replacing pads is to learn how to dismantle the clarinet as there are far more operations that are best done while the keys are off. That way, you have full access as trying to do work with the keys in situ will be very restrictive.
If you want to know the sequence of key removal (refitting is the reverse), then you only have to ask. Certain keys will have to be removed before others, so it's a case of understanding what to do instead of trial and error in this department.
You're lucky as the majority of Boehm system clarinets are built in pretty much the same manner (there are a few exceptions, but most will be built the same) so once you learn to take your own one apart and get into a routine, you can apply the same routine to your next one.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-28 20:46
Steve,
Are you & me talking about the same hot glue, The hot glue I have here is in a stick form you put the glue stick in a glue gun and it heats the glue up, or you can just melt the stick, You pull the trigger on the gun and hot glue come out the pointed end, as soon as it comes out and hits the air (maybe 5 seconds) it is dry. You mention that hot glue has a longer open time, maybe we are talking about two different glues here? The hot glues I have ever used dries as soon as it hits the air, there is no working time.
If you were to put the glue gun point in the pad cup and press the trigger to release the glue as soon as you removed the gun tip from the cup the glue is dry, I have never had any open time when using hot glue to repair anything, now I remember THAT was my main reasons for not liking hot glue.
I am not sure where using a hair dryer came from but I never mentioned using one. Even I know that a hair dryer is a dumb idea.
I did mentioned using a micro torch though or maybe using the tip of a soldering iron to hold on the edge of the pad cup to heat it up, the one I have here is only 25 watts, not sure that is hot enough. I will try it the next time a pad falls out.
I think I would start with the 4 larger pads, one at a time, since they are bigger they might be easier to do? I have had at least 3 of those fall out and I heated the cup w/a lighter (Very scary not hitting the wood) I replaced those using my feeler gauge to make sure they were level. It seems to work, the horn plays and plays pretty good.
From reading between the lines on the replies I have received,( Which I really appreciate your time to help), most are saying for me not to do this as a beginner, I know where you are coming from but I have no choice, No one is going to do this for me, if I do not do this then I will not have a horn to use. I am trying to learn to play this clarinet, just for fun and maybe to get a little better, I am 65yrs old and it will keep my mind working learning music, (It has been a little hard not knowing if I am doing things right) I know I need an instructor and I really wish I could have one but there is no extra money for one. I had to retire early after 35yrs my company decided to closed the doors after 112 years, so retiring early I lost a lot of money so there is no extra.
I am not going to give this idea of playing the clarinet up because of the pads falling out and should be replaced. They are worn out! I do think that these are the original pads from whenever this horn was made? (I have a thread on now trying to identify my clarinet, No looks or replies as of now.) If I have to keeping putting the pads back in why not just put a new one in its place?
I like the idea of the RooPads for the open keys and the A & G# key I think they are a good pad, a cork pad for the register key, it is the rest of the pads I am not sure of what kind to use? Any good suggestion? and where to get them?
I am going to figure this out and I will get the nerve to do this.
Thank you
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Wes
Date: 2013-01-28 21:15
Yes, I also cringe when I read some of the above. Chris P is the authority, however.
My preference is double skin standard clarinet pads, with an option for cork on the upper joint, all secured by stick shellac, heated with an alcohol lamp. One should not begin with cork pads as they require very precise seating. Check and readjust the pad seating with heat by feeling with a strip of cigarette paper. Good luck!
Manufacturers often use hot glue these days, probably because it can be applied in less time. However, I think that shellac is easier for adjustment of pads.
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Author: BartHx
Date: 2013-01-28 21:29
Fred: Don't be scared away from doing the work. Just be sure you keep track of the pivot rods, screws, keys and where they go and work carefully (don't interchange them even if they look the same). I taught myself some time ago, but I am still able to do it fairly easily at 66 y.o.
My working time with hot glue comes from heating the pad cup until the bead of glue starts to level a bit. That puts enough heat into the metal to keep the glue workable for awhile (watch your fingers).
I found leveling a new pad in the large cups to be the most difficult. No problem resetting an old pad, but starting with a new one, I had to work on. Work on only one joint at a time and then deal with the bridge key.
Two tools I would suggest that will make things easier when you are able to get them are duck bill pliers and a spring hook. You can get by without them, but the right little finger G# spring is a real pain without the spring hook and the bridge and crow foot are much easier to work with using duck bill pliers.
I would suggest that you start with foam pads. They work fine, are very forgiving, and last for a long time. E-mail me at barthendrix24@yahoo.com and I will give you a link to get some decent foam pads at a good price from China.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-28 21:40
A spring hook can be made from a small crochet hook - file or cut a notch in the tip of the hook and also another in the round end to push springs with, the hook is used to pull springs into position and locate them in the spring cradle.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-28 21:49
Chris,
Chris,
You are correct that I should learn to remove the keys, That is my main problem, I am not conformable with taking the keys off. I have tried to fine an exploded diagram of the clarinet to show where the keys go, Example I have an idea if I knew how they came off I could make a poster showing a number on the body w/ the same # on the key showing where it goes. I think if I could do this showing the order in which they come off and make it into a poster it would sell. It does not exist, There is nothing, I did see one that was a board that you set the keys on when they are removed but it did not show what order they come off, it was $10.00 which I do not have. I have taken some keys off to replace the pads that fell out but it was a pain in the a__ to put them back. I know that certain keys need to come off first I had that problem w/ removing the crows foot keys to replace the cork, I did figure it out though, It took awhile. When you mention just asking about key removal do you know where I can find a place that shows that? I think it is less work leaving the keys on, I am usually wrong, But I do it anyway LOL.
Thank You Chris
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-28 22:46
BartHx,
You are giving me a good example of using the hot glue, I forgot that the pad cup would be still be hot to keep the glue soft so here would be some open time. I would like to use good pads to do this, I am not worrying about lasting but would like a pad that is water proof or water resistance. This is an older horn that I think is a pretty good one, Not a professional one, but not far from it at the time it was made (If I can only find out when it was made, I have a thread on now, but have no replays as of now, I guess no one cares to answer) The person I brought this from 20years ago played in and orchestra and local band ensembles so I do not think he would have purchased a cheap horn? Not sure though. It has logo's stamped everywhere. At the time it was just a clarinet to me, something I was going to learn to play when I retired.
So I would like to treat this horn as a professional one to me. Regardless of the price of the pads I do not have the money now so I have to save for them, just hoping that the pads will last that long? So I will save for the better pads it will take longer but I know that I have the best pads. I will send you an E-mail for the link.
Thank You
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Steven Ocone
Date: 2013-01-29 22:50
I am too busy to say much now. The others are contributing some good information. Different hot glues have different open times. Personally, I don't use a glue gun. If you are padding with keys on, you can cut off a bit of glue from a stick and place it in the empty pad cup. As mentioned, heating the pad cup will heat the glue. The trick is to have the right amount so that you have enough so it "floats" and you can manipulate it, but not too much so that you have a mess.
Steve Ocone
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2013-01-29 23:14
When removing old pads I always find it very difficult to get all of the old hot glue out of the pad cups. It does not seem to be easily removed.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2013-01-30 11:35
Heat the pad cups to melt the glue and wipe the insides with a rag or tissue bunched up tight and pushed firmly into the pad cups, then rotate it to clean them out. Then when cooled, use a cloth dipped in alcohol to clean any remaining glue.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2013-01-30 16:10
A cotton swab dipped in alcohol also works well for this final step.
Laurie
(Mr. Laurie J Braaten)
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-01-31 08:48
Clarineteer,
I the beginning when the first pad fell out I made the mistake of scraping out the old glue, it was shellac it came out real easy and the cup was still on the horn.
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: Fred Boreale
Date: 2013-02-03 03:23
Hi All,
Sorry it took so long to get back but I was away, I would like to thank everyone who took the time to answer my post, I never figured I would get the the advice I did, Now I just have to put it all together.
I do know a H_ _L a lot more about installing new pads then I did before. I think I can replace them on the horn, If I do get the nerve to remove the keys I might do that also. As soon as my rich uncle gets out of the poor house I will have the money to replace them. LOL until then I will just have to wait.
Again Thank you all.
Fred
fboreale@aol.com
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Author: lizholt
Date: 2013-03-13 23:44
Hi Fred,
It's great to hear that you're keen to learn the clarinet, and to have a go at doing your own repairs. I, like you, decided to try and learn to play again, after I had a period of illness and thought I'd never be able to go back to work. I first learned many years ago and thought it would be great to try again. I bought myself a cheap second hand Buffet B12 on Ebay, after doing a lot of research to decide on a good instrument to learn on, but all the pads needed replacing.
I'm now back in work, but over the last two years I have taught myself to completely strip, repair and restore clarinets, all from the excellent advice on forums such as this, and some very useful YouTube videos by some very experienced repairmen. I've now built up my own little workshop, with a collection of tools, from woodwing repair shops,Ebay, cheap craft shops, and some home-made. I've had some very complimentary remarks from experienced musicians about the quality of the repairs I've done!
For repadding, I always strip all the keys off first. Then I can carefully check the instrument body for cracks and damage, and do any cleaning, oiling and repairs to the wood. What I've found invaluable is a clarinet Key Map. This is a little board printed with all the keys, in the order they need to be taken off, and with little holes drilled next to the key pictures to keep the pivot screws or rods for each key as you take them off. That way they don't get lost or mixed up, and it gave me a lot more confidence in stripping all the keys off in the first place. The one I use is this one - http://www.etsy.com/listing/38363417/clarinet-mapassembly-board - or you could try making your own, it's probably not too difficult.
I use little pellets of hot melt glue which I got quite cheaply from instrumentclinic.com and a little mini gas torch, also from them, but there are probably lots of places you can get similar.
Good luck with your repadding, and your learning!
Alison
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Author: lizholt
Date: 2013-03-13 23:53
PS, there's also some useful advice here -
http://www.probirt.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=89
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Author: Clarineteer
Date: 2013-03-14 11:09
Those little pellets of hot glue are a pain in the neck to remove therefore not easily reversible.
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