 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2011-11-26 16:39
Greetings. Have a question...a clarinet I obtained (plastic) did not have the original thumb rest...got an adjustable thumb rest replacement.
Any advice on placement? It will not fit over original holes, so anyone know of a better place for the new one? Up or down on the plastic...and what is also so weird is that the human thumb looks like it was made to be placed over the adjustable screw??? Anyone have details on what is correct or not? Links or photos would be so very much appreciated as well.
Thanks ever so kindly.
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Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2011-11-26 17:37
Most clarinet maker's web sites have photos of the back of their products showing the thumb rest.
To position and install yours:
Remove the thumb rest and sit down to play.
Prop the horn on your knee.
Put your right hand where you find it comfortable and play a bit to be certain.
Note where your thumb sits and mark it.
Check to see if that looks reasonable compared to where your old thumb rest forced your thumb to sit under the clarinet.
Set your thumb rest adjustment to mid-range, and position it so that everything is above the thumb position.
Mark the up/down position of the mounting holes.
Make sure that the thumb rest is centered (unless you'd like it offset left/right) and mark the hole locations.
Drill pilot holes for the screws. These should be about the same size as the root diameter of the screws (the narrow diameter between the raised threads).
Carefully start the screws straight into the pilot holes and run them in to where their heads are proud of the body of the clarinet by about the thickness of the thumb rest mounting plate.
Remove the screws and install the thumb rest.
... and good luck.
Bob Phillips
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-11-26 22:02
When drilling holes for self tapping screws in clarinet (or oboe) bodies, use a 1.6mm or 1.7mm drill which is fitted with a depth stop (a piece of plastic tubing cut from a cotton bud stem will do) so only the end 5mm of the drill bit are left showing - that will ensure you don't accidentally drill through to the bore.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: SteveG_CT
Date: 2011-11-27 02:49
Chris P wrote:
> When drilling holes for self tapping screws in clarinet (or
> oboe) bodies, use a 1.6mm or 1.7mm drill which is fitted with a
> depth stop (a piece of plastic tubing cut from a cotton bud
> stem will do) so only the end 5mm of the drill bit are left
> showing - that will ensure you don't accidentally drill through
> to the bore.
>
Agreed. Note that this means you should use a 1/16", #52, or #51 drill bit (metric size drill bits are hard to find in the US other than from industrial supply houses).
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2011-11-27 10:12
SteveG_CT wrote:
> Agreed. Note that this means you should use a 1/16", #52, or
> #51 drill bit (metric size drill bits are hard to find in the
> US other than from industrial supply houses).
Interesting. The same happens when we're trying to find imperial sizes here. ![[tongue]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie6.gif) .
With wood drills this isn't such an issue as most small sizes are "close enough", but metal taps and dies with their different thread pitches are a nightmare.
--
Ben
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Author: Bob Phillips
Date: 2011-11-27 17:11
Thanks, Chris for the size specification.
Now, where can I write that down so I'll "remember" it.
Bob Phillips
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Author: William
Date: 2011-11-27 19:21
Stanley Hasty, former Eastman Professor of Clarinet, told us to "just glue the thumb rest on with Elmer's." Then, if you don't like where it is, "just knock it off and re-glue it so it's better." No drilling of screw holes for him.
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Author: rtmyth
Date: 2011-11-27 21:26
Find the position, as advised. Glue the rest on the body, as advised. If postion is still as wanted, drill the holes and add the screws. (Much more likely to minimize mistakes.)
richard smith
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2011-11-28 04:31
I wouldn't glue the thumb rest with Elmer's glue or any glue that is relatively easy to remove (too risky IMO), unless only for testing the position. I woudln't use a glue that is hard to remove because... it is hard to remove.
As far as what size holes to drill, it's best to drill the smallest size holes that are still at least large enough for the root diameter of the screws to go into. Less than that and you are trying to force a rod into a hole, more than that and the thread won't hold as well as they can.
When screwing the screws, they are self tapping the clarinet body, but in reality they might not cut great. What this means is that they could become a bit loose or at least not hold great (e.g. the "turn forever" problem). But you might not realize it happened. What I like to do, preferably with steel screws, but even if not, is to shape the threads to a tap shape. This will cut the thread MUCH better in the body and make the screws more secure. You ould use use the tap shaped screws, but I prefer to use new normal shape screws for actually holding the thumb rest. Eventhough not so much of the threads are removed for this, for such small screws holding it, I prefer as many full threads as possible.
>> Set your thumb rest adjustment to mid-range, and position it so that everything is above the thumb position. <<
Good suggestion in general, but for some people (probably not most) this is boarderline. Some people's natural position is not what they prefer for the thumbrest when the weight of the clarinet is actually on the thumb, plus half of the adjustment distance could be boarderline for adjustment in that case. So just another thing to consider, where you like the thumb rest when actually playing, and possibly move it in mid-range position slightly up or down, etc.
Post Edited (2011-11-29 04:37)
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2011-11-30 02:15
THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For the awesome information.
WE have been so helped by all the advice.
THANK YOU SO MUCH AGAIN!
SO very much appreciated.
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2011-12-06 21:01
Hi,
what a timely topic, I just purchased an adjustable thumb rest for my wood clarinet. Any suggestions on what to use to fill the old exposed screw holes from the original rest?
Laurie
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Author: TJTG
Date: 2011-12-06 21:20
My repair guy used black paraffin wax, I believe.
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2011-12-06 22:59
I clip and shave (wooden) toothpicks to size, glue them in, sand them flat, stain them with a black marker and rub some polish wax (carnauba or beeswax) over everything.
--
Ben
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Author: BobD
Date: 2011-12-07 12:47
Adjustable thumb rests are a waste of time! Get a regular one and install it upside down and see if that works for you. If not turn it right side up and try that.
Regardless what you do you will drop at least one of the screws so put a white bed sheet down on the floor so you will be able to find it. Affix the TS with contact cement first as this helps prevent dropping the screws. Whatever you do don't drill any holes, that's a job for someone who has done it previously.
Bob Draznik
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2011-12-07 15:54
Thanks for the responses, BobD makes some good points about losing those small screws, they have a way of hiding once dropped. On the rest:
BobD wrote:
> Adjustable thumb rests are a waste of time! Get a regular one
> and install it upside down and see if that works for you.
I already tried this, and it helps, but I could still use at least another half an inch. One problem with the upside down thumb rest is the reverse curvature digs into the thumb. One will either need to glue on some cork or make sure the black removable thumb rest pad doesn't disappear during a concert.
Yes, drilling holes in a clarinet (or skis, for that matter) is scary stuff, not for the faint of heart. I still haven't done this, but have the following observations:
*Another way to make a stop on the drill bit (besides the tubing mentioned earlier) is to wrap masking tape around it leaving the proper depth exposed. Use plenty of tape!
*I tested a thumb rest screw in a 1/16" hole drilled in a block of wood, and it is just right. This means that if one doesn't have a steady hand when drilling, the hole may end up being a little wide. In cases like this all is not lost. A small piece of wood in the hole (trimmed toothpick point) will correct the problem. A safety pin may need to be poked in first to make clearance for the screw.
Laurie
Laurie (he/him)
Post Edited (2011-12-07 16:26)
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2011-12-07 22:25
And if you accidentally do drill into the bore, then undercut the hole. Your clarinet will sound so much better.
--
Ben
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Author: BobD
Date: 2011-12-07 22:36
"Measure twice, cut once" doesn't apply to drilling holes in clarinets. Great suggestion Ben. Thinking about drilling holes in clarinets causes me to recall MacArthur Park......."someone left the cake out........". But on a higher note, the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain's super rendition of the piece......
Bob Draznik
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2011-12-08 18:33
BobD wrote:
> "Measure twice, cut once" doesn't apply to drilling holes in
> clarinets. Great suggestion Ben. Thinking about drilling
> holes in clarinets causes me to recall MacArthur
> Park......."someone left the cake out........". But on a
> higher note, the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain's super
> rendition of the piece......
>
thanks all, I had a good laugh over some of these responses. It's interesting to see what people are squeamish about. Personally I have less trouble drilling than gluing my clarinet.
Laurie
Edit: but see below!
Laurie (he/him)
Post Edited (2011-12-14 14:41)
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Author: LJBraaten
Date: 2011-12-14 14:40
well I successfully installed the adjustable thumbrest. I encountered the following problems:
*wrong sized drill bits
*hard (brittle) wood
*screws not self taping
Lesson learned, next time I need clarinet drilling I take it to the shop.
Laurie
Laurie (he/him)
Post Edited (2011-12-14 14:42)
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