 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: CuriousClarinet
Date: 2011-06-06 22:34
Okay, so this is probably a really stupid question... but, I'm going to ask it anyways because I'm getting rather annoyed by my problem.
A month or two ago, I traded my Buffet 1180 bass clarinet for a Buffet 1183. I had always noticed that in order to get the 1180 to play all of the notes well, the two joints had to be lined up exactly in a certain spot, but besides that I had no issue with the key work being in the way of assembly. That said, I'm having a frustrating issue with the 1183, there is a piece of white plastic that is glued to the rod(?) that connects the bottom joint to the top joint, and nearly every time I put the instrument together, I some how manage to rip the piece of plastic off... The first time this happened, I had an instrument repair person glue it back on, the times after that I've just glued it back myself. It makes this horrible clicking sound if the plastic isn't there... and the only way I can find to avoid raising the rod up and hitting the plastic is to not press the keys on the bottom of the joint when putting the instrument together, but this is easier said then done, (at least for me) and I can't find another place to support the joint well enough..
So, anyways, does anyone else have this issue with their bass clarinet? Or am I just particularly clumsy? (Don’t answer that =p) Do the Selmer Privilege’s have this plastic do-dad as well? Any advice on how to stop accidently attacking the plastic piece on my instrument? Thanks!!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-06-06 23:10
Hold the top joint in your left hand almost as though you're playing, so your fingers wrap around the joint holding the main action fingerplates closed and also holding the throat A key open. This raises both the linkages so reducing the risk of the adjusting screw tips being damaged or the linkages being bent.
Hold the lower joint so your right thumb is on top holding the large pad cups closed, then bring both joints together, pushing and twisting until they line up properly. Don't touch any of the RH main action fingerplates as RH1 and 2 raise the long Bb link and RH3 raises the speaker mechanism link.
The problem with basses is the keywork is very easily damaged due to the length of the keys, so you do have to be patient and careful when assembling any bass clarinets - and even more so with pro models with the double speaker mechanism.
When putting the bell on, hold the bell key closed and make sure the linkage on the body remains down during assembly.
When putting the crook on, hold the crook with your hand going over the top of the arch (on the opposite side of the crook key) and push/twist it straight down into the top joint - don't hold it at the socket end during assembly as it can rock about and damage the socket.
There should be a small amount of clearance no more than 0.5mm and no less than 0.2mm between the shift lever on the top joint (with the plastic tubing over it) and the bar of the crook key (looks like an upside-down T) as this ensures the crook key remains closed at all times until it has to open from upper register E upwards (when the lower vent closes automatically).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2011-06-06 23:22)
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Author: davetrow
Date: 2011-06-07 00:57
Also, put the mouthpiece (with reed and ligature already assembled) on the crook before you put the crook on the instrument.
Dave Trowbridge
Boulder Creek, CA
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2011-06-07 05:20
Do you hold the throat A key and the D/A key (left hand middle finger key) down whene you assemble the instrument?
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Author: CuriousClarinet
Date: 2011-06-07 23:47
Thanks for all of your advice! I haven't held the throat A key down in the past, but that helps alot! :P I'm not really sure how Davetrow suggests I hold the bottom joint, however. My thumb is on top the keys?
And I have been putting the ligature/mouthpiece/reed/neck together first for awhile. My teacher suggested it once, much easier to line the reed up that way.
I think that the 1183 is a pain to assembly, I barely can imagine what a bass clarinet with the low C extension is like! Some of my issue may be the fact that the cork on the top of the bottom joint is quite a tight fit on my peticular bass. I need to get it thinned, or perhaps just better cork grease. My high school band director onced used this liquid cork grease stuff, not sure what it was, but it worked really well. Have any of you used this/know where to get it?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-06-08 09:42
The liquid cork grease is the Selmer one, but it is very sticky. You're best getting a good quality grease that's thick - there are several types that many recommend on here.
Don't get the cork thinned as that will make the joint loose and it can fall apart (this happened to a low C bass I was holding for someone and I felt dreadful!), but have the tenon checked to be sure it isn't binding in the socket as this is more common (and mine was like this). If the tenon is binding and it's a new instrument, then it should be covered by a warranty so you should take it back to where you got it from to have the tenons fitted by shaving off some of the wood to get a good fit and not by sanding the cork down.
When you're holding the lower joint, don't hold any of the right hand fingerplates closed as that's going to cause damage during assembly - it's the same as if you're holding the right hand rings down when assembling a Bb clarinet which will damage the linkage. So hold the lower joint in your right hand so you're closing the double F/C pad or low E pad closed with your thumb over the top of it (palm downwards over the joint) and your fingers grip around the back.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2011-06-08 13:48
It's easier shown then described but you have to be careful to make sure the keys don't hit, it's that simple, just take your time. ESP eddiesclarinet.com
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Author: RAB
Date: 2011-06-08 16:17
HI
If you go to the following link:
This is on the Muncy Winds Site and I do the repair work there, so I just wanted everyone to know that up front.
http://www.muncywinds.com/index.php/clarinet/bass-clarinets/buffet/buffet-bass-clarinet-with-low-c.html
Scroll down to the bottom of the page and there is a 3 part video of Lawrie Bloom giving a detailed instruction on bass clarinet assembly.
I hope this helps, There are several "bridge" keys that are used so they present a real problem.
Rodney Berry
Repair Dept
Muncy Winds Music Company
Boone, N.C.
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Author: CuriousClarinet
Date: 2011-06-09 19:12
That video was very helpful... thanks for posting it. I guess I'll look into better cork grease and if the joint is binding..
Thanks for all of the advice!
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Author: Paul Miller
Date: 2011-06-10 04:55
I love my bass, but godDAMN it is a fragile piece of kit. Morrie, if you're reading this, could you please please please build me a set of unobtanium keywork?
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