 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-05-21 09:52
You should be able to scavenge one off any B&H clarinet - chances of getting an undrilled one are probably nil.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2010-05-21 22:43
If anyone has spare B&H parts then it's most likely Windcraft (Dawkes) at Maidenhead.
By unthreaded do you mean the thread that goes into to body or the threaded rod screw receiver (on the inner pillar)?
The thread that goes into to body is put on at same time the pillar is shaped during its manufacture so you are unlikely ever to see such a pillar unthreaded. If you really need one then you may need to solder/silver solder a small sleeve over the threaded portion.
The B&H pillars are common to all Imperial models 926/1010 and had buttress threads.
I think from memory that there are just 4 basic pillar shapes/sizes that cover all the pillars on a 926/1010.
Peter Eaton also uses similar pillars to B&H but his also have the body threads ready cut.
Post Edited (2010-05-21 22:54)
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2010-05-22 07:57
Attachment: 1010pillar 001.jpg (1153k)
Attachment: 1010pillar 002.jpg (1543k)
I've caused a bit of confusion here I'm afraid. When I originally said the unthreaded pillar I didn't mean one without a thread that goes into the body.What i mean is there is the receiving or internal pillar, that has a thread to accept the rod screw and the one I require is the outer pillar that does not have the internal thread (pics attached).
The rod screw is tight and despite weeks of attempts cannot be removed, therefore I need to cut the pillar, remove the rod etc and replace the pillar.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2010-05-22 08:25
>> The rod screw is tight and despite weeks of attempts cannot be removed, therefore I need to cut the pillar, remove the rod etc and replace the pillar. <<
If (hopefully) you haven't cut it already, there is probably a way to remove it without ruining the pillar. Just recently there were two threads about stuck rods. Both might help you, the first has a long post I wrote about a lot of different options and approaches.
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=328195&t=328195
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=328408&t=328408
I assume the rod is stuck with the key mounted, not just a rod stuck in the posts? As described in the links, identify whether it is stuck inside the key or inside the posts (or both). If nothing works and you have to use a drastic approach of cutting it, I recommend cutting right next to the post. Then it might be relatively easy to remove the small part stuck in post (it might not even be stuck there). From the details you give, it sounds like it is completely possible to save the post.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-05-22 11:37
You needn't cut the pillar - drill out the screw head so it frees up the outer pillar (it's a 2.2mm screw, but start with a smaller drill and work your way upwards) and you might be able to swing the keys around enough to then be able to unscrew the outer pillar. That will leave the trill keys still attached to the screw which is still screwed into the inner pillar. If the thread turns, then you'll be safe to snap the thread off the rod screw. If the thread doesn't turn, it's rusted solid, but can still be removed.
Should the thread break in the internal thread in the inner pillar, you can either cut a slot in it to fit a small screwdriver and unscrew it, or drill it and reverse tap it out. If it doesn't budge, boil the pillar in alum to dissolve the steel (and you may need to do the same with the upper trill key).
If all else fails, find a donor B&H clarinet (eg. a Regent with a broken middle tenon or someone with old B&H spare parts). I know a couple of sources for donor B&H parts, so do ask if you need to - but try to remove the screw before doing anything.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: donald
Date: 2010-05-22 13:20
I know someone here in NZ who has several 926 top joints with pillars attached (but no keys). These came from the estate of the late Frank Gurr (former Principal Clarinet NZSO). Let me know if you are interested in contacting this person.
dn
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Author: clarimad
Date: 2010-05-22 17:27
Chris - it's a 1010 and the rod screws are long. There are no pivot screws.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-05-22 18:20
Not for the trills and side keys - they're short rod screws on 1010s.
If the doubled inner pillar is damaged and you need to replace that with one from a lower ranking B&H clarinet, you can drill a 2.2mm hole through the upper part with the thread (which the Regent/Edgware/Emperor and Imperial 926 has) to allow the long rod screw for the LH rings to pass through.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: jasperbay
Date: 2010-05-23 15:51
I've looked over you photo's, very nice by the way! At this point you have several choices:
(a) admit defeat as gracefully as possible, repad or polish the key in place, as long as you can get the keys working freely.
(b) ignore 'a' , drill out the buggered slot, cut a new slot with a dental burr(all repairmen should hug their dentist often) and try again, applying heat and oil to the key tube.
(c) if 'b' fails, drill out entire slotted end, as suggested earlier in the thread, and try to wiggle the pillar or axle screw out
The older I get, the more often I go with (a).
Clark G. Sherwood
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