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 Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: Fuzzy 
Date:   2010-02-10 04:47

I have a rather old (Albert system) Conn clarinet which I'm trying to assign a date to. Unfortunately, the Conn folks are down for the night, so I thought I'd drop by the forum, here, and see if anyone would know the answer to my problem.

All Conn serial numbers/lists that I can find omit the format of the serial number on the instrument I have. The lists all show numeral-only listing for serial numbers, whereas the clarinet I have is stamped BxxxxxL (where the x's are numbers). I don't find any mention of serial numbers containing a leading B or trailing L, so I'm not sure how to interpret the stamped numbers on the clarinet I have.

Do I simply omit the B and L when looking for the serial number? The B and L are stamped as if they are part of the serial number on each joint, so I've been reluctant to just drop them altogether.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Fuzzy

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 Re: Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: Lelia Loban 2017
Date:   2010-02-10 10:42

I don't know an authoritative answer, but that trailing L probably stands for "low pitch" and the B at the beginning for B-flat. A metal Conn old enough to be Albert system was made during the time when most clarinets were labelled as high pitch or low (modern) pitch, because some bands and orchestras had standardized to concert A=440 Hz while others hadn't. The markings can be LP and HP, or simply L or H. It's normal for an old American Bb clarinet to be identified with a B, without the flat sign. Does the serial number otherwise make sense for a clarinet made early in the 20th century?

Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.

Post Edited (2010-02-10 10:43)

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 Re: Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2010-02-10 13:24

http://www.conn-selmer.com/content/resources/serialno.php#Conn

Just the number part (without the prefix or suffix) is the serial number that should give you an idea of its age.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2010-02-10 13:25)

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 Re: Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: Fuzzy 
Date:   2010-02-10 15:34

Thanks to both of you....that helps me a lot. Yeah, the number makes perfect sense if I omit the B and L - pegs it as a 1919 instrument. Now I have a question for Chris and those other repair personnel out there...

The upper joint is fine, but several of the lower joint screw/rods are stuck solid. I've tried normal oil for a few nights, then penetrating oil for a few nights...still nothing, and I've unfortunately started stripping the screw heads. I don't have one of those special tools for backing a stripped screw out...what are my best options?

One of my repair books says to drill a small hole in the head of the screws, then file a large sax spring to a square, drive it into the hole, etc... But, honestly, I don't think that would work in this instance.

Thanks,
Fuzzy

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 Re: Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: Don Berger 
Date:   2010-02-10 18:37

I had a couple of older Conns [ Boehms] and found info for both description and numbering- dating help at the "Conn Loyalist" site. Luck, Don

Thanx, Mark, Don

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 Re: Conn Serial number (already have been to Conn's website)
Author: clarnibass 
Date:   2010-02-11 03:58

>> but several of the lower joint screw/rods are stuck solid. I've
>> tried normal oil for a few nights, then penetrating oil for a few
>> nights...still nothing, and I've unfortunately started stripping
>> the screw heads. I don't have one of those special tools for
>> backing a stripped screw out...what are my best options?

First is to verify if the stuck screw is a rod screw or a pivot screw. If you are not sure what is the difference, see this article http://www.saxontheweb.net/vbulletin/content.php?150-Saxophone-keywork-reference-for-technical-terms it is about saxophone keys but this is the same on a clarinet.

For a rod screw, first check if it is stuck inside the key or inside the post (or both). If the key can move, you check by looking if the rod screw moves with the key when you press it and let it return. If they move together, it is stuck in the key, if not, it is stuck in one (or both) of the posts.

After you identify where it is stuck (for pivot screws it is always in the post) use penetrating oil - and very important - use heat! Usually you can use a flame for this even on a wood or a plastic clarinet. Especially with plastic, you really have to be careful, and maybe better to use something like a Weller soldering gun, for example http://www.elexp.com/solder/d550.jpg then cut the tip off and touch with both tips on the part you want to heat (the part e.g. a key, a post, etc. will conduct it and will heat faster this way).

You have to make the penetrating oil hot enough until you se it bubbles and/or vapours. You need to do this repeatedly, let's say several times a day and also wait to let it penetrate. I've never had a stuck screw take more than a day using this method but I know it can take a few days or more sometimes.

VERY important: You MUST use EXCELLENT screwdrivers! They must have a very good handle, a strong and sharp tip that fits the slot and long enough shaft for alignment. You also need to press down while you are turning.

If you see you are beginning to wreck the slot then stop imediately! You need to repeat more with the penetraing oil & heat. I would do this for at least 2-3 days, several times a day. Also worth it to try to use the screwdriver while it is hot.

If you already wrecked the slot then it might be too late to do anything with a screwdriver anyway. In this situation I usually re-cut a slot with a micromotor while the screw is still stuck. Ever since I have the tool for this it has never failed. But you probably can't do this (most likely impossible to do with a dremel or flexible shaft)?

If all else fails then a last resort is to cut the key right next to the post. Since I have the tool to re-cut a slot I never had to do this. But before doing it you should check how it would help i.e. would you be able to remove the key, remove the posts, etc. It might help you since you can hold some part in a vise, etc. or try to tap out a part that is stuck in a post. BTW this method of cutting is mainly for keys with rod screws, less for pivot screws.

There are probably more issues that I forgot. The problem with this and many other repairs is that a lot of times they don't go exactly as you planned and during the repair you find more problems that you need other strategies to deal with.

Or you can just bring the clarinet to a repairer who can do this  :)



Post Edited (2010-02-11 05:35)

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