 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Koo Young Chung
Date: 2009-07-07 05:28
What kind of solvent would you use to dilute almond oil?
Thank you.
Post Edited (2009-07-07 12:44)
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-07 12:38
I'd keep well awaay from it. I bought a bottle of the purest the chemist could get, and it went horrible stinky rancid.
Don't use it unless you know that it has an additiive that will stop it doing this for a very long time. That means something better than vitamin E, which is sometimes used.
Buy Doctor's Products to fulfil this requirement.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-07 14:38
OK, so what if you do use rancid almond oil?
Bob Draznik
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-07 14:57
I have never seen oil go rancid once it was absorbed by wood.
--
Ben
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2009-07-07 15:16
(Disclaimer - I sell a plant derived oil mixture - Bore Doctor, and genuine Grenadilla oil - Grenad-Oil)
Genadilla wood has some natural antioxidant properties and absorbed oil is in an anaerobic (for the most part) environment which keeps the autoxidation (breaking lipid bonds in the presence of oxygen commonly referred to as turning rancid) from happening quickly.
Oxidized plant oils form acidic byproducts which can harm the structure of the wood over time. Many people will add Vitamin E to plant oils but, although derived from plants, Vitamin E is only a good antioxidant in animal fats and rather poor for plant oils. There are several powerful plant oil antioxidants which preserve plant oils much better but are rather esoteric and difficult to find.
IMO almond oil is a second rate wood preservative plant oil (but preferable to using clear petroleum derived mineral oil) and other mixtures of plant derived oils (which may include almond oil) penetrate better and preserve better than pure almond oil.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2009-07-07 16:48
I like Bore Doctor a lot especially because it has a great smell. I would bet it has (at least one of the ingredients) almond oil because it smells a lot like marzipan.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-08 15:17
Hi Omar.
1. Dribbles of cooking oil on a kitchen shelf, or on an ageing bottle of such oil can change to a sticky solid. The same happens around the top of my bottle of linseed oil, and also happened around the screw lid of my can of tung oil. Indeed, the entire expensive contents of the can eventually went solid!
It also resembles the the thick, sticky skin on the surface of the contents of an old can of oil-based varnish.
I have come to call this change of state from smooth liquid to sticky solid as polymerisation. Is this the correct term for what is occurring, and is it related to the oxidation that we call rancidity?
2. It would seem that the most likely place for oil to go rancid would be outside the timber but exposed to the air, i.e. on the pull-through or swab used to apply bore oil. Indeed, this seems to happen. Can you suggest any precautions other than keeping it in a closed (dark?) container, to reduce this oxidation?
3. The pull-through I used to use had a lead weight on the end. This weight seemed to oxidise quite fast, and the oil on the cloth went stinky rancid very fast. Is it possible that the presence of lead somehow accelerates the process of oxidation.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2009-07-08 20:12
(Disclaimers as above)
Yes, autoxidation - breaking bonds in the presence of oxygen is a main factor in the polymerization of linseed oil and tung oil. Both of these are used to form impermeable moisture barriers (not absolute however) on wooden surfaces. In certain oils the autoxidation process causes polymerization and in others the breakdown and rancidity of the oil (also forming acid byproducts). As mentioned, oxygen is necessary for the process and takes place mostly on the exterior portion of the wood.
Pull-thorughs or swabs often smell bad because of the autoxidation of the oil absorbed to the cloth (and it has a larger surface area to react with oxygen) and therefore should be washed on some regular basis.
The swabs and mops that I use routinely for oiling are kept pretty well in a Ziploc bag with all the air pushed out before sealing and kept in a cool dark place - actually in the refrigerator.
Lead is not a catalyst of autoxidation and the white oxidation seen is probably accelerated due to moisture and not any interaction with the oil. Lead in general is pretty unreactive (follow the electromotive scale for activity of metals).
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2009-07-09 10:59
So it may be a good idea to exclude even more oxygen from my DP swab by wrapping it tightly in plastic between uses? Or would that permanently stop the fibres from sticking out when I want to use it? Hmm.
"Lead is not a catalyst of autoxidation"
But I wonder if a component of some oils or oxidised oils may be a catalyst for oxidation of the lead.
I have given up using lead anyway.
Post Edited (2009-07-09 11:00)
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2009-07-09 11:58
> So it may be a good idea to exclude even more oxygen from my DP
> swab by wrapping it tightly in plastic between uses? Or would that
> permanently stop the fibres from sticking out when I want to use it?
Do as meat packers do with what they call "protective atmosphere".
Whether this is an economical approach for an individual is questionable, though.
Ideally your "oil rig" is a bottle/container where the swab is permanently immersed in oil, or in N2. Not very practical for refrigerator use, I admit.
--
Ben
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Author: BobD
Date: 2009-07-09 12:30
I keep my bottle of DP bore oil along with the single shotgun patch used to apply it in an old glass peanut butter jar with the top on.
Bob Draznik
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