 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-08 01:57
I have this problem constantly. When I try to play the middle B it plays the G above the staff. It also becomes very resistant. So anybody know why this happens? Maybe a leak but my clarinet is brand new and its a Selmer 10S II.
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2008-06-08 03:50
Do you have this problem on other clarinets or only this one?
If not, try this- play clarion G (normal fingering) and l i g h t l y press your right index finger to play F. Does it respond easily? If not, the bridge key between the upper and lower joints is not adjusted well or the pad leaks. Try turning the lower joint clockwise in relation to the upper and try again.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-06-08 04:09
G is a natural overtone of the B, so it could be caused a leaky pad part way down the clarinet somewhere in the region between LH1 and RH2.
Check the side key pads to see if they're seating well (using the finest cigarette paper cut into a long triangle with the longest end tapering to a blunt tip of between 1.5-2mm wide) and also the toneholes for blemishes in the bedlace crowns (where the pad seats onto) which could cause leaks.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2008-06-08 15:08
Even a new clarinet can be out of adjustment. Actually it is likely if you haven’t had someone set it up before you took it home. If it was mailed to you it could have happened in transport. If you know how to suck the air out of your mouthpiece to create suction, taking the air out and having the reed “pop” back, a great test to see if your reed is sealing on the facing of the mouthpiece. If that works then put the MP on the upper joint and do the same with that to see if you can suck the air out of the upper joint. If you can’t, and the reed won’t close and then pop opened, then you know there’s a leak.
It can also be a simple as you’re slightly pressing the side G# or A throat key or not covering all the holes when you go to the B. This is not such an uncommon problem when you’re playing a new, especially a different brand or model clarinet, until your fingers get used to the new “design”. ESP
www.peabody.jhu.edu/457, (listen to my Mozart)
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
Post Edited (2008-06-10 17:57)
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-08 15:53
I have owned 2 Yamaha clarinets and now this Selmer with the same problem. I guess it must be me.
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Author: clarinetguy55
Date: 2008-06-08 17:47
This is probably caused by a leak. Check to see if there is a bent key or check the pads.
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-08 23:33
G is a natural overtone of the B, so it could be caused a leaky pad part way down the clarinet somewhere in the region between LH1 and RH2.
What is LH1 and RH2?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-06-09 05:57
Abbreviations for left hand finger 1 (LH1) and right hand finger 2 (RH2).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2008-06-09 06:34
"I have owned 2 Yamaha clarinets and now this Selmer with the same problem. I guess it must be me."
Have ANY of these been adjusted by a reputable technician?
If so, then I'd say the problem is definitely you.
(New instruments often need adjusting)
BTW, do you have any problems with other notes an octave and more above that B? I take it that you do actually play well above that B?
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-09 12:00
Gordon (NZ) wrote:
> "I have owned 2 Yamaha clarinets and now this Selmer with the
> same problem. I guess it must be me."
>
> Have ANY of these been adjusted by a reputable technician?
>
> If so, then I'd say the problem is definitely you.
>
> (New instruments often need adjusting)
>
> BTW, do you have any problems with other notes an octave and
> more above that B? I take it that you do actually play well
> above that B?
It was play tested before I bought it. I do have a problem with the long C being resistant sometimes but all this seems to start after I have been playing it for 30 min are longer. It's ok when I first start playing.
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Author: Lelia Loban ★2017
Date: 2008-06-09 12:51
It would be unusual for different brands of clarinets to have pad leaks that produce the same result. Suggestion: Have a clarinet player watch you while you play. I'll bet you're resting a finger or a knuckle on a key you don't intend to open (for instance, the knuckle of your right index finger against the lowest trill key) and accidentally pushing on the key just hard enough to open it slightly, venting the B so that it hoots the overtone. That would account for the same thing happening on different clarinets that have been play-tested.
Lelia
http://www.scoreexchange.com/profiles/Lelia_Loban
To hear the audio, click on the "Scorch Plug-In" box above the score.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-06-09 13:19
Are you tensing up your embouchure a lot when playing the B (and other upper registernotes)? This can also make the B overblow to a G.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-09 14:32
Chris P wrote:
> Are you tensing up your embouchure a lot when playing the B
> (and other upper registernotes)? This can also make the B
> overblow to a G.
>
I don't think I am. The problem occurs after I have been playing for 30 min to an hour and it's alway the long be overblowing to G and the C being real resistant. It seems like a moisture issue because the problem doesn't occur when I first start playing.
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Author: Ed Palanker
Date: 2008-06-10 18:05
If my former suggestion didn’t help, now that I know it happens after a half hour or so, it could be something else. I just tried doing that and it won't squeak when I hit the G# or A keys when going to the B, but it sure did when I hit the side Eb key in the RH. It’s possible that after a while one of your pads gets wet, or even damp, and causes the problem. I know I often get moister in the top trill keys and if I don’t swab out often I have a problem. Not the same as you but a problem never the less. I check and dry them constantly. When I first changed to my Selmer, I had the same type of problem until I had some of the keys adjusted to my hand. Once you begin to have that problem, check the pads very carefully and if that’s not the problem play in front of a mirror and try to cause the problem on purpose and maybe the light bulb will go off in your head, or at least eyes. ESP www.peabody.jhu.edu/457 (Listen to a little Mozart)
ESP eddiesclarinet.com
Post Edited (2008-06-10 19:02)
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Author: buedsma
Date: 2008-06-10 18:47
just play for more than half an, hour till the problem arrives , and let then someone else continue to play that clarinet. Moisture could be a problem , bu i suspect some changes in finger / hand position
best regards
or do you turn around and put the clarinet on a stand regularly , or when turning pages ?? : in that case there is a higher probability that moisture is leaking into one of the tone holes
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-10 19:58
buedsma wrote:
> just play for more than half an, hour till the problem arrives
> , and let then someone else continue to play that clarinet.
> Moisture could be a problem , bu i suspect some changes in
> finger / hand position
> best regards
>
> or do you turn around and put the clarinet on a stand regularly
> , or when turning pages ?? : in that case there is a higher
> probability that moisture is leaking into one of the tone holes
I switched back to my 4C mouthpiece, was using the C85 105, and that helped but did not eliminate it. I think my fingers are the real problem. They are small and I get ring impressions from the tone holes and I think that prevenets a good seal.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2008-06-13 12:52
Another possibility is that a pad is split, and after a while, absorbs moisture and swells, causing it to leak.
The bladder pads on new French instruments are often rubbish these days, covered with a very thin, brittle membrane.
Post Edited (2008-06-13 12:53)
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-13 13:05
Gordon (NZ) wrote:
> Another possibility is that a pad is split, and after a while,
> absorbs moisture and swells, causing it to leak.
>
> The bladder pads on new French instruments are often rubbish
> these days, covered with a very thin, brittle membrane.
>
>
> Post Edited (2008-06-13 12:53)
But I have this problem with all clarinets.
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Author: BflatNH
Date: 2008-06-13 14:19
A possibility if 1. it happens with different instruments and 2. when it starts happening you immediately let someone else try your instrument and it does not happen, and 3, you tend not to grip/press the tone holes lightly - you may be forming ridges in your finger which do not seal well, or be pushing the finger pad into the tone hole too much. When this happens, stop playing for 2 minutes or press your right hand finger tips against your left hand finger tips (to flatten the pads out) and see if the notes are more reliable. Also check to see if the angle your fingers make wrt the barrel changes as that may affect how you seal your 3rd and 4th fingers. Please post if this helps.
-J
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Author: KristinVanHorn
Date: 2008-06-13 15:55
BflatNH wrote:
> A possibility if 1. it happens with different instruments and
> 2. when it starts happening you immediately let someone else
> try your instrument and it does not happen, and 3, you tend not
> to grip/press the tone holes lightly - you may be forming
> ridges in your finger which do not seal well, or be pushing the
> finger pad into the tone hole too much. When this happens,
> stop playing for 2 minutes or press your right hand finger tips
> against your left hand finger tips (to flatten the pads out)
> and see if the notes are more reliable. Also check to see if
> the angle your fingers make wrt the barrel changes as that may
> affect how you seal your 3rd and 4th fingers. Please post if
> this helps.
> -J
Is there any kind of plug to place in the ring keys? Especially the right hand index ring key because I think that's where the trouble starts. I'm pretty sure that my small finger is not sealing well on that key.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-06-13 17:54
Use a piece of Blu-Tack (Pritt-Tack) or a piece of sellotape to seal the RH1 tonehole, and see if this helps (though you will lose your B/F# and have a stuffy C/G).
You could be very slightly sliding RH finger 1 off the chimney when you reach for the RH F/C or E/B keys, but enough to cause a small leak.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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