 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Bill McK
Date: 2008-04-01 17:29
I have a pre-R13 and would like some help in deciding if it is worth restoring. The basic question of how much might it cost verses how much is it worth.
The serial number is 395XX so I realize it is fairly old. The upper and lower sections are in nice shape but there is some play in the key work. Also the bell has two length wise cracks noticable inside but hard to see on the outside. Pads probably need replaced as well.
The barrel is also not original but an old adjustable type so it would need to be replaced.
The up side is I paid very little for it. Your recommendations would be appreciated.
Bill
Bill McK
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-04-01 17:52
If it's structurally sound and you like the way it plays and fulfills what you want from a clarinet, it's worth the cost and effort to have rebuilt if it lasts you for many years to come.
Too many people weigh up the cost of restoration against the price they paid for an older instrument (usually the old 'That much?!? But I only paid £xxx for it back in 19whenever!'). But as this clarinet is going to be valued for replacement in an insurance policy against the cost of a new R13 I think it's worth having all the work done on it to make it equal to or better than a new one.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ken Shaw ★2017
Date: 2008-04-01 20:33
The instrument dates from around 1949. See http://www.woodwind.org/clarinet/Equipment/HowOld/Buffet.html.
Swab the upper joint thoroughly in both directions, point it toward a white wall and look down it from the top. What you want to see is that the bore is shiny all the way down, and particularly above the register vent. Many of the older Buffets have had the section above the register vent reamed out, which almost always destroys the intonation and tone quality.
If it's in reasonably playable condition, check the intonation carefully, with someone else watching a tuning meter so you won't be tempted to make corrections. Saran wrap under a bad pad can help.
You'll definitely need a new barrel. All the adjustable barrels I've tried have been dreadful. Bells are too thin to pin, but they can be glued. Bell design changed over the years, so you should use the original one if possible.
When you clean up an old instrument, you often find cracks that weren't visible before. Don't be afraid of taking it to a good repair shop and asking whether it can be restored. A live, expert eye is always better than advice at a distance.
Ken Shaw
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2008-04-01 23:38
If the keys are silver plated (and the plating is unbroken), it will be worth no more than $500 in restored condition.
If the keys are "German Silver", they will polish up readily - but the instrument will be worth no more than $350 in restored condition.
SOME of these were rather bright in sound.
Few were particularly well voiced for tuning (very stuffy and uneven response), that said - they can sound really well, even though more difficult to play than current designs.
If it's for your use, why not?
If it's intended for resale - it may cost more to repair than it will recoup at sale.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: clarnibass
Date: 2008-04-02 05:48
"any of the older Buffets have had the section above the register vent reamed out, which almost always destroys the intonation and tone quality."
In that case, why was it done?!
I recently saw several Buffets from 30s and 40s and in almost all cases the mechanics were in such poor condition that it would have been by far the most expensive part of the repair. It's impossible to know that without seeing the instrument so I suggest to go to a good(!) repairer and see what they say. Depending on the current condition it might be possible to play it and see if it has any potential.
I tried some good clarinets from that time but I personally think the one made today are much better. So IMO the question is how much you would need to spend overall on this clarinet in comparison with a new (or newer used) clarinet of same or better quality. Synonymous Botch's prices seem low to me but prices vary in different places not to mention the current exchange rate.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bill McK
Date: 2008-04-02 17:38
Hello All,
Thanks for responding to my questions. The clarinet does play but seems a bit stuffy so I appreciate the input on instruments from that time frame. I've seen posts from folks who love their clarinets of that age and am hoping for similar results.
I did look at the bore and cannot see any evidence of being reamed out. I would assume it would show the chatter of the reamer if it had been.
Also, I'm not familiar with German Silver. These keys are discolored and have some yellow orange spotting. A little silver cleaner on the finger and they do clean up well but not to a high polished finish. I have not found any holes in the plating.
I will take it to a good repair tech and get her opinion, hopefully this weekend. If the estimate scares me I may try to bring it back to life myself.
Bill
Bill McK
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-04-02 18:15
Your Buffet most likely has unplated nickel silver keywork as this shows different signs of wear or corrosion in comparison to plated keywork. On plated keywork, the base metal will be eroded where the plating has worn or pitted leaving small irregular craters with sharp edges.
German silver or nickel silver is a pale yellow coloured metal, much lighter in colour than brass due to the nickel content - basically an alloy of copper, zinc and a small percentage of nickel. It's often used for silver plated cutlery and usually stamped 'EPNS' which means electro-plated nickel silver instead of carrying the solid silver hallmarks as solid silver should do.
I've got an older R13 Eb clarinet that had badly tarnished unplated nickel silver keywork when I bought it (off eBay), this had the orangy-yellowy spots and patches all over the keywork, but I cleaned it all up to remove scratches and after polishing and had the lot silver plated along with all the other nickel silver fittings. After I rebuilt it and repaired the cracked barrel and bell, it plays like a dream.
Though it is easy to tidy up pitted and scratched unplated keywork (such as solid silver, nickel silver or brass) and polish up to a bright shine, or even have silver plated. But unplated keywork is much better in the respect that it usually wears more evenly than plated keywork where the plating has worn or pitted, and the worn areas erode away at a faster rate than the plated areas, and that unplated keywork can be worked on (filed, papered or hard soldered) without having to worry about damaging the finish as it's not plated.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2008-04-02 18:21)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
