 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: pdkbach
Date: 2007-05-25 16:12
What is the best solution for a crack in the lower joint socket under the ring extending to the first tone hole? thanks
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Author: Neil
Date: 2007-05-25 17:52
I would get it pinned by a competent technician.
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2007-05-26 01:18
Not so, you can't pin in that section because the wood is too thin. The only real solution IF the crack goes completely to the tone hole is to either have a new tenon graft complete with new tone hole or to have the area graphite banded with a new tone hole insert. Sometimes separating the crack and applying super glue or epoxy will hold, but anytime a crack goes to the tone hole usually moisture will find it's way along the crack line to the tone hole and cause additional checking or cracking. To avoid this situation make sure the ring is on tight.
jbutler
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Author: bandman
Date: 2007-05-26 14:57
Mr. Butler is right the crack. The way you described it, it CAN NOT be pinned. About all you can do is remove the ring, get some super glue worked in the crack and make sure the ring is good and tight when you replace it. The next best thing you can do is replace the joint.
Retired Repairman
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-05-27 12:49
i once had that on a clarinet with a metal socket insert.
the answer is wood chips ground down to a fine powder and superglue. Be patiant and it will be OK.
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2007-05-27 16:39
skygardener wrote:
> i once had that on a clarinet with a metal socket insert.
> the answer is wood chips ground down to a fine powder and
> superglue. Be patiant and it will be OK.
How do you get the wood chips and super glue into the tone hole without having to reface or resurface the tone hole on intruments without a metal socket insert such as the Selmer full Boehm clarinet? Granted you can repair up to the tone hole in this fashion, but air will still leak around the outside of tone hole/pad seat. This is why the ONLY solution is to install a tone hole insert or a complete tenon graft. These are less costly than replacing the whole joint, but as bandman states it's next best to replace the joint.
jbutler
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Author: skygardener
Date: 2007-05-27 21:08
sorry, left out the details. you must put more material than you need. when everything is dryed you must slowly cut and file everything to the shape you want. If you have small files, a few hours (4-10), and a steady hand then it can be done. big tools are not really neccessary, but they would make things faster and easier.
Post Edited (2007-05-28 04:24)
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Author: grifffinity
Date: 2007-05-28 04:34
I third Mr. Butler's comment. In fact, I have first hand knowledge of this type of crack, as my 1968 Bb has one that starts from the top of the socket through the first tone hole surface.
If you live in an area where it gets very dry in the winter, you may look into getting an adjustable ring that you can tighten for that socket. You can contact Jimmy Yan in NYC, as he was the tech who worked on my horn. I haven't had any problems with the crack after it was glued and the original ring has remained tight, so I haven't gone back yet for the adjustable ring - future project.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2007-05-28 11:47
I have had success cutting along the split and into the tone hole, with a miniature circular saw in my dental handpiece, making a "crevasse" perhaps 0.3 mm wide and 2 or 3 mm deep. Then I "wick" low viscosity superglue into it until it is totally filled. This way, I ensure that the superglue goes deep into the timber, and has integrity all the way to the tone hole. Of course, I over-fill, and then dress the tone hole and face, and deal with cosmetics. Dental equipment helps to get this done quickly.
IMO it is good if tone hole inserts can be avoided, because they add another boundary where materials meet, that must reliably sealed, in spite of possible movement of the timber. At least with a filled split, one can SEE whether it has remained successful, whereas the junction between body and an insert is rather hidden.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2007-05-28 14:00
"adjustable ring that you can tighten for that socket"
Aha, that's what those music holder rings are really for!
Bob Draznik
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