 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Mike S.
Date: 2007-02-08 23:31
Is it at all safe to keep reeds on a piece of glass to let them dry out and not have the ends flat as opposed to not flat( the end that goes in the mouth)? Just wondering because I found a good glass rectangle and thought of putting it to use.
-Mike
Recorders(SSAT), piccolo/flute/alto flute, oboe, clarinets(Eb/Bb/bass), saxophones(SATB)
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Author: tictactux ★2017
Date: 2007-02-08 23:37
Personally, I think a reed must dry from both sides, else it's getting warped.
But there are a lot of reed holders with glass out there, so I think it surely is worth a try.
--
Ben
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Author: Tobin
Date: 2007-02-09 00:54
Hello Mike,
The end you're talking about is usually called the tip.
The idea of drying them on the glass is that the tip will dry straight, and therefore perform better upon its next use.
I usually dry all my reeds on glass.
James
Gnothi Seauton
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Author: Mike S.
Date: 2007-02-09 00:59
Yeah, thanks. I've been working on my woodwinds alot this evening and totally blanked out on parts of the reed.
-Mike
Recorders(SSAT), piccolo/flute/alto flute, oboe, clarinets(Eb/Bb/bass), saxophones(SATB)
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-09 01:04
(Disclaimer - I sell a reed drying product)
I may be biased but I agree with Ben that letting the moisture escape only from the top of the reed is not the optimal situation. The idea of a smooth surface is good but moisture cannot escape from the bottom, which as any 2 x 4 stud will tell you when placed on wet ground and dry air above - will give you warping. IMO - Ideally the surface below the reed should be absorbent, flat, and downward pressure should be placed on the reed to get the optimal drying and the least warpage or tip "ripple" on reeds.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
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Author: FDF
Date: 2007-02-09 03:00
I've also found that pressing the tip on the reed, while wet, on the glass also keeps it from warping. I usually rinse the reed after playing, then put the reed on glass to dry.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-09 03:23
My own testing indicates that you get less warping and "rippling" of reed tips if the reed is semi-dry (e.g. pressing it between a kitchen paper towel, or shirt sleeve, pants leg), rather than wet, before putting it on glass, and applying downward pressure on the tip, but more thorough and quicker drying with less warping if placed on an absorbent surface either wet or semi-dry. - YMMV.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
(Disclaimer as above)
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Author: FDF
Date: 2007-02-09 12:40
You're right Omar, I forgot to mention I wipe the reed with a kleenex before pressing it on the glass.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2007-02-09 18:44
Not having seen any 2x4Studs at the gym lately I can't comment on that issue. But I'm sure Omar's thinking is right on. Since we never know for sure, however, what state of dryness our new reeds are in I think the thing is more complicated that it appears to be.
Bob Draznik
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-09 19:23
One famous reed company is packaging their premier reeds in Mylar packets with a stated humidity of 48% which they indicate is the optimum Relative Humidity for maintaining and sustaining reed quality. Who are we mere mortals to argue with the proclamations from on high? - at least below 50% RH mold growth is inhibited!
L. Omar Henderson
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Author: David Spiegelthal ★2017
Date: 2007-02-09 19:31
The technique I've been using since I was a mere nubbin of a clarinetist is, following use, to rub the reed as dry as possible (only in the direction from heel to tip) using either my (clean) fingers or a dry towel, and then setting the reed on a table or counter, curved side down, for an hour or two to dry thoroughly. After that it can be safely stored in just about any reed case without fear of warping (although flat plate glass is optimum, reasonably flat plastic or wood are fine too).
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Author: susieray
Date: 2007-02-09 20:42
I was gonna say just exactly what Spiegelthal did, but he beat me to it.
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Author: JTS
Date: 2007-02-09 21:06
It seems that a lot of people are worried about the tips becoming wavy, which I think is a pretty easy problem to fix with a little soaking. I am more concerned about the back of the reed swelling and preventing a good seal with the mouthpiece. For the past 2 years I have been just putting my reeds in a tupperware container (freely floating around) with a slightly damp sponge. I never allow my reeds to dry out at all, and never have problems with warping of any kind. It might be worth a try, especially if you find yourself in a very dry climate.
James
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-09 21:44
In the South East U.S. this would create the Hanging Gardens of Babylon from May through October.
L. Omar Henderson
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Author: JTS
Date: 2007-02-09 21:49
Haha, no doubt it would, I had that problem in NYC during the summer. A little vinegar helps.
JTS
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-10 04:19
Vinegar, with the acetic acid partial pressure being low, makes the reeds unpalatable for my taste. Drying reeds to less than 50 % RH and then having a really good rehydration regime is the long term solution for me - perhaps others have better success with other ways.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
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Author: Elkwoman46
Date: 2007-02-10 04:49
Thank you for this message! Wow, what great ideas. Perfect timing for me!
I have an idea. I was thinking about what could be done to put reeds on that will dry flat and quickly. What comes to mind is this. Would love your thoughts on this as I never thought on these things before, except just sticking them in the holders these things have come in.
Well, I was thinking the best way to describe my idea is this.
You know how some people have ring binders with these plastic inserts to keep collectible baseball cards in. These plastic inserts have just the right amount of space to keep each card on display, viewable from both sides, keeps them fairly flat but in good shape. There are a number of pockets on each sheet of plastic for a dozen or so, depending on the size of the sheet...
Well, imagine a fabric sheet that could hold so many reeds on a sheet, perhaps not two sided viewing though, but the back of sheet would be some kind of plastic that is stiff under the surface under the "fabric" so that it would keep the reeds from warping. Imagine the properly fitted inserts for each reed keeping them nice and straight because of fitting just right, yet because it is made of fabric it dries quickly. Obviously, it would be needed to made of a fabric that dries quickly, and there really are some quick drying fabrics out there now with the fabric technology out there. I would imagine that if made properly, this item could even be thrown in the washing machine now and then, or simply washed and rinsed under a faucet in a sink periodically.
I could even imagine that each row could hold the various sizes and so they could be sorted and convenient for usage and all in one place. The fine details of course of the sewing project would be to be able to insert and remove easily, meaning that it would have to be able to be able to pull it out of insert easily without a lot of hassle yet cover the reed two sided well enough to keep it flat during the drying process. Hummm.
I might make something like that and see how it works. My sewing machine though is not working so good right now, though, since the top thread is snapping continually in the zigzag mode and it is not a tension problem...very frustrating.
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Author: BobD
Date: 2007-02-10 09:30
"what state of dryness our new reeds are in "
Proably expressed inaccurately. What I meant was "state of cure". Reeds fully cured as well as those incompletely cured can be marketed at a set humidity.
Bob Draznik
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Author: Bill
Date: 2007-02-10 10:45
So, what?, I'm the only guy who uses Thirsty Reed Pads? Got two - the studio size and the handy smaller size. These are so much a part of my life I can't imagine playing without them ... like doing without a ligature.
Bill.
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Author: Tobin
Date: 2007-02-10 14:22
Hello all,
If you use a (50/50) mixture of distilled water and propolyene glycol on your wet sponge the reeds will stay humidified without growing mold in any condidtion. The P.G. inhibits the formation of any mold.
The is one of the ways some people maintain their cigar humidors.
After reading an article on reed humidity and maintainance by a bassoonist, I thought I'd give it a try. (google reed humidity and you'll find it).
I should point out that other articles I've read (which I now can't find) suggested that humidity around 70% would be ideal. YES, the ideal relative humidity is up argument. In a plastic shoebox the RH became 68%. In a wooden cabinet it's sitting at 50%.
I can't report yet on the success of the reeds, I'm still balancing the humidity of the container and setting up more batches of reeds.
So I guess at this time my first post was innacurate. I'm not even trying to dry my reeds at this point!
Since I'm sure this has been tried by others, would anyone contribute their success/failure with this method?
James
Gnothi Seauton
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Author: hartt
Date: 2007-02-10 14:26
Irrespective of which drying method one uses, if they use a plate of glass, be sure it's safety plate glass.
this is available from most all glass 'stores' found in one's local yellow pages.
It can be had 1/4" thick and they bevel / round the edges.
6 x 6 is an idela size
dennis
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2007-02-10 16:40
(Disclaimer - I make a large reed drying apparatus)
I have come to the conclusion that there are many worthwhile approaches to drying and storing reeds and also that your own environmental, geographical, and Relative Humidity situations will dictate what is best for you. I would like to participate in a brain-storming session with others because there seem to be some great ideas, some not so great ideas, and some awful ideas in the community about how to store and dry our reeds which should be discussed in some forum.
One idea for an inexpensive setup might be to get a bisque (this is a term well know to potters as a clay product that is partially fired but absorbent enough to accept paints and glazes that are then further fired to the finished pottery state - it is also sometimes called "Greenware") - tile which usually comes in sizes that are 4" x 4" or 6" x 6". These can be purchased individually at a pottery supply store or on the web inexpensively.
This will supply a flat, absorbent surface. The next step is to go to a well stocked hardware store and get a couple of butyl rubber "O" rings that when stretched will fit over the sides of the square bisque tile fit snugly. The sides of these tiles are sometimes rough so they should be smoothed with emery cloth or a file so that they do not cut the “O” ring.
You can then slide your wet reeds under the "O" ring which will apply downward pressure on the reed pressing it against the tile surface. Water will evaporate from the top but also be sucked into the absorbent tile from below. I have found this approach to be optimal for drying reeds with minimal warpage and no "rippled" tips.
I have used this approach with a specially formulated tile material for a personal holder for a couple of reeds that could be carried around with you. I no longer make these because of my own time constraints. Unfortunately I have not found a source for commercial small tile materials to make these smaller holders and had to have them made for me.
The down side and caution with using this approach is that in order to function properly the tile must be dry to begin with and the moisture gradient is the important factor for satisfactorily drying the reeds. The mass of the tile is relatively small and therefore the amount of water that it can hold so care must be taken not to over soak the tile and to try to keep it dry. I would store it in a water vapor proof Ziploc bag with desiccant. A thicker tile or a thicker piece of sandstone is a better approach supplying more mass but hard to obtain commercially.
For the DIY folks this might be a fun project to try and evaluate the results.
L. Omar Henderson
www.doctorsprod.com
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