 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: J B Lansing
Date: 2006-03-21 12:27
I just bought an old Selmer signet 100 clarinet on Ebay "sorry no case", with the idea of fixing it up for a low cost student instrument. It came with a very oxidized Harrison ligature that cleaned up well and is very servicable and a 2RV mouthpiece that has turned a mottled tan (butterscotch?) color. The clarinet has very corroded key so I would guess it was tored ina moist environment and maybe a gas like ozone was present. Short of paint is there any way to get back the black color? The mouthpiece is in perfect shape except for the color.
J B
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2006-03-21 13:08
You might try the doctor's mouthpiece cleaner first as a conservative approach. While it may work to remove discoloration, though, I don't think that's its intent. In one case where I used it to clean an older mouthpiece, (mostly to remove calcium deposits from the outside) it actually looked to me as though the mouthpiece was slightly more discolored after the treatment but it could have been a trick of the light. (FWIW. the calcium deposits didn't go away, either and I followed the Doctor's instructions to the letter.)
A fairly comprehensive discussion of somewhat more "invasive" approaches is here:
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/read.html?f=1&i=52139&t=52002
I recommend you read the entire thread, including the warnings. The two methods involve using either chlorine bleach (which seems to be more popular) or ammonia. As the warning message in the post cautions, however, for safety reasons, DON'T USE BOTH TOGETHER!
I have had success in the past with a mild solution of bleach. I would advise, however, that you keep an eye on the process and remove the mouthpiece as soon as it is black. Soaking in successive baths of clean water, as mw suggests, is IMO, a good idea to make sure you remove all the bleach (you want to stop the chemical reaction when you've accomplished your goal).
As is also mentioned, bleach will turn the mouthpiece black but will also remove any shine that it has -- in my experience, leaving a black but dull and slightly rough feeling mouthpiece. This can be buffed back to a shine. Actually, I found that Flitz polish does a pretty good job, absent a buffing wheel and compound.
After this treatment, the mouthpiece had the burnt rubber/sulphur smell/taste caused by outgassing. In my case, this disappeared within a few days. The doctor's product might work to eliminate this as well.
It wouldn't surprise me, BTW, if some older mouthpieces that turn up on eBay, have been through this treatment. An older Stowell, Wells and Schneider that I purchased turned up looking brand new -- and smelling like a Goodyear plant. The seller later admitted that he did sometimes buff the pieces he was selling. It's still a pretty good mouthpiece.
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: BobD
Date: 2006-03-21 13:38
Having once mixed ammonia and bleach I strongly SECOND Jack's caution...very dangerous. But why do you want to ruin a good aged 2V mp?? If it were mine I'd just use some plastic polish on it.
Bob Draznik
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Author: susieray
Date: 2006-03-21 14:02
I used some Maas metal polish on a mouthpiece the other day, and it worked great for removing the discoloration. Maas somes in a tube; it is a pinkish-colored paste that is applied sparingly with a rag. It cost between $3-$4 for a tube and it goes a long way. It is also great for polishing metal, of course. :-)
You do have to use a little elbow grease if using it on a mouthpiece, and in the case of a badly discolored one, you may have to go over it more than once, but it worked for me. As far as calcium deposits, plain old vinegar works best for that. I have also used ascorbic acid powder mixed with water, but vinegar is cheaper and works more quickly.
Sue
Post Edited (2008-06-21 19:15)
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2006-03-21 15:03
(Disclaimer - I sell a mouthpiece cleaner and a service to restore mouthpieces which are discolored or evil smelling)
I have conducted mouthpiece cleaning seminars and free cleaning at several shows and some of the specimens presented would only come clean with a jackhammer.
The rubber smell and discoloration in older mouthpieces is due to sulphur compounds which I have studied extensively. Both chlorine bleach and ammonia will remove surface discoloration to some extent - sometimes - or make it worse - but greatly degrade the rubber at the surface and potentially change your mouthpiece table lay and also require extensive abrasive buffing to return the shine. Only a chemical modification of the sulphur compounds at the surface and below the surface without degrading the rubber will bring long term results. Brown or green mouthpieces that play well and do not smell bad should probably be left alone unless the color disturbs you!
L. Omar Henderson
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Author: Alseg
Date: 2006-03-21 15:24
The "Patina of Age" has no bearing on playability.
Many cleaning methods are mentioned.
Omar's will clean it nicely, but a ++really++ green specimen will still be dull and discolored.
If you polish the mouthpiece DO NOT do the rails....you will alter the facing.
If you resort to buffing with a Dremel or Foredom tool, the heat will MELT the rubber and distort it.
Smoker's pipe stem cleaner works as well as any polish (Dunhill or online tobacconists sell the stuff....it is ammoniacal and has abrasives, so use with caution.)
Fine pipes (Charatan, Dunhill, GBD etc) use quality hard rubber for stems, but they are not reed-friendly.
Former creator of CUSTOM CLARINET TUNING BARRELS by DR. ALLAN SEGAL
-Where the Sound Matters Most(tm)-
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Author: J B Lansing
Date: 2006-03-21 15:33
I guess I should leave well enough alone. The mouthpiec does not smell and while only shiny in a couple on places that were under the ligature, it is smooth and the lay perfect. It also play quite well. I might try a little metal polish on non critical surfaces.
Thanks everyone for your help.
J B
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