 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: SVSorna05
Date: 2005-05-31 02:02
Okay just a quickie...
When i play my low notes it sounds clear and full, but when i go up the octave into the clarion it becomes very forceful and resistant and not clear. I obviously have a leak somewhere but i have no idea where. Any direction would be appreciated ...I can adjust the pad with the feelers but just need to know where
Thanks
-Dain-
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Author: Llewsrac
Date: 2005-05-31 02:09
With the left hand little finger low E key depressed check the low F pad cup, is it sealed, does it have any play in it when you touch the low F pad cup.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2005-06-01 05:41
I wonder if you have an obstruction in your register vent. Take the key off, clean the vent with a pipe cleaner - good idea to look through the bore while doing it, to see what comes out - and then blow through the vent in case any fluff was left behind in there.
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Author: jbutler ★2017
Date: 2005-06-01 11:46
I'd check for an adjustment of the G# key. The adjustment screw might be turned down a bit too far. Next, I would check the side trill keys. Sometimes they get bent and one doesn't close all the way.
jbutler
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2005-06-01 16:25
I'm now trying to get the "all- new" pads sealing properly on an old metal Madelon [Bettoney "clone"] Bb and so far can get down to 'middle C' [from open G/A] before leakages stop or just produce fuzzy sounds. So I suggest that approach to ferreting-out leaky pads requiring adjustment/replacement. A ? for our good, friendly repairers, "Is this a good way to start a work-up?, after eye-balling the disaster scene?" All advice will be appreciated ! TKS, Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: ron b
Date: 2005-06-01 19:05
What are "all - new" pads, Don?
Do you mean that you're re-padding the instrument with new pads or are you using a "new" kind of pad?
Most mechanics I know have a more or less routine sequence of installing and leveling pads. I find that you can start either with the top of bottom section but you should have a step-by-step order of adjustment. It just make life simpler (and easier) -- for me, anyway.
In a "nutshell" (and, in a perfect world...) --
My personal preference for a complete re-pad is (after disassembly, polishing, cleaning, swedging, etc. is done) to first [re]cork the keys. Re-do the tenon corks if needed. Next, lay out all pads (checking sizes to cups), poke and put a drop of [French] cement on the backs. Then heat the keycups and put a little cement in there. Then re-heat the cups and put the pads in, 'leveling' them as I go. Reassemble, oiling and checking action as I proceed. Finally check seating of pads, heating and leveling (with a slick or probe) to tone holes as necessary in an orderly fashion using a leak light *and* feeler. Finally, check combination linkages for seating uniformity. Let sit overnight. Play test next day to determine if final minor adjustments are needed.
It varies from place to place, tech to tech, shop to shop, but generally if you're replacing only what's necessary to get it to play right, it's a play condition service. If you need to fix broken, lost or ill-fit screws and/or steels and things like that you're talking about an overhaul or restoration. That, I feel, is going beyond the scope of this particular thread 
- r![[cool]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/cool.gif) n b -
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2005-06-01 19:48
TKS, Ron, fine detailed description, yes, my "fuzzy" description of complete repad. Only about the 2-3rd time on a metal, not a lot of diff from pl/wood, only one tenon [top]. It just seemed logical to work down from open G, and with strategic heating/recentering of , in partic., the norm-closed ones, bridge adj. and long E/F, checking-out the clarion, and Eureka, it now plays "pretty dern well" , not bad for a mediocre horn just slightly younger than its "tinkerer". This should make the first owner's grand [and great grand] daughters happy. The sun is now shining and all is well !! Don
Thanx, Mark, Don
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Author: ron b
Date: 2005-06-01 22:14
That looks pretty good to me, Don. Starting with an open note and going from there is exactly what most of the techs do around here.
(Smiling daughters and grand-daughters are [too?] frequently payment enough for my efforts, by the way.... )
- ron b -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2005-06-01 22:25
On a metal clarinet it is quite common for failures in the soldering of the tone holes. These failures are usually over only part of the circumference where the tone holes are attached, so they may be difficult to spot. Nevertheless, they contribute significant leaks.
Post Edited (2005-06-02 06:57)
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