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 Need help with leak
Author: Clarinetgirl06 
Date:   2005-05-16 20:22

Today, my clarinet (Yamaha Allegro) started leaking in the Ab/Eb pad. Two weeks ago my other clarinet (Yamaha 52) leaked in the exact same place. Well, on the Allegro I can play an Eb/Ab fine, I just can't play a E/B at all. I will push down the E/B and nothing will come out and so I have to push the Eb/Ab key to make the pad go down and seal all the way.

I haven't gotten the 52 repaired yet because it has a horrible time with cracking and I got the Allegro from Yamaha for free (because the 52 had cracked so much) and so I thought that would be a good time to switch to the Allegro. The Allegro doesn't have any cracks. I was planning on getting the 52 fixed in the early summer when I had spare time.

Why are BOTH of my clarinets doing this? Can I fix it at home? Help in general!!!!!! Thank you! P.S. I want to practice really bad but both of my clarinets don't play! : (



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 Re: Need help with leak
Author: Gordon (NZ) 
Date:   2005-05-16 22:34

That particular pad, because it is sprung closed, and not exposed to a lot of water, does not normally leak unless the key is bumped and bent so that the key cup no longer aligns level with the tone hole.

The remedy depends on which part of the pad is leaking, and what the cause is.

The former can be ascertained by dragging a narrow sliver of thin cellophane (from around a cigarette box?) or equivalent from under the closed pad. There should be equal 'drag' all around the pad.

The latter probably needs the diagnosis skills of a pretty practical person such as an experienced technician.

There is another cause for this pad to leak - a weakened spring....

During installation of this particular key, the spring needs to be hooked onto the key BEFORE the pivot rod is inserted, and while the key is slightly displaced in the direction of tip of the spring. Then the key is carefully returned to alignment with the post - no further! - for insertion of the rod.

For most clarinets, if you hook the spring to the key AFTER the key is mounted, then that extra millimetre that the spring needs to be stretched to get it past the the spring cradle is enough to de-tension the spring such that it is no longer strong enough to close the pad well.

This is a trap for anybody taking keys off their own instrument.

The same technique ideally should be carried out for the F/C key.

With the other 'normally close' keys a similar technique more or less HAS to be carried out because there is not normally space to connect the spring AFTER the key is mounted. However, with any of these keys, care is needed not to de-tension the spring while mounting the key.

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 Re: Need help with leak
Author: Clarinetgirl06 
Date:   2005-05-17 01:25

Figured out the Allegro's leak. The crows foot was bent some so we bent it back. Still can't figure out what is wrong with the 52. It will pass the blow test and I'll play and it will be fine and suddenly it isn't fine. It's weird. Anyone know what's wrong?



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 Re: Need help with leak
Author: Gordon (NZ) 
Date:   2005-05-17 12:04

Common causes of erratic ,deteriorating behaviour include:

- A pad with a puncture that absorbs water and swells, stopping it from correctly sealing on the tone hole.

- Pivots that are sloppy for some reason - perhaps made like that, or worn like that, or from timber that has expanded such that posts have parted, or simply from loose pivot screws.

- A pad that has come unglued.

- A pivot that is binding, either from rust, being bent, or a gummy residue left from an inappropriate lubricant. Or from the timber shrinking in low humidity, putting the posts slightly closer so that a key slightly jams.

- The throat A spring having too much friction from rust, or running up against a tiny wall at the end of a groove that it runs in in the timber.

- Poor adjustment of the bridge key, such that the right ring key pad does not close properly, especially in faster passages. This can be the problem when neither section of the body has any leak when tested.


From what you say there is a possibility that there are cracks running past the holes, causing leaks. I wonder, how reliable is your leak test?

Good luck!



Post Edited (2005-05-17 12:04)

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