 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2014-05-24 04:35
Hi,
As I stated in a previous post - the shaperform I ordered turned out to be wider than my shaper tip.
So I have been adjusting the sides of the tied reed with an fine grit emery board. (I occasionally have done this in the past to raise a pitch of a reed.)
Well, I have found that sanding the sides and playing with the curve is one more attribute to adjust - play with.
It seems that I can adjust the reed to suit my embouchure and setup.
So you have flexibility to adjust the reed from both the surface scrape as well as sanding the sides.
It's relatively easy to do. And there lots to experiment with - if you so desire.
Comments?
Mark
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Author: JMarzluf
Date: 2014-05-24 06:11
I try for as much consistency as possible, leading up to the scrape. A reliable shape can be a great asset, as it introduces a certain amount of predictability into the process. The shape can have both miraculous and/or disastrous effects on the acoustics and playability of a reed. Subtle changes can easily throw off your scale, for instance. Also, playing around with the shape too much may cause your reeds to no longer seal correctly -- something we just can't have. I say keep searching for a shape that you like "as-is," without the need for significant by-hand adjustments. Good luck!
Jonathan
http://www.marzlufreeds.com/
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Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2014-05-24 17:49
Great points!
I agree with you completely that extremely small incremental changes in the shape can really throw you off. I noticed with the new shaperform, the reed width changed ever so slightly; however, the reed felt so different in my embouchure that it upset my usual set-up/approach.
I first make a playable reed. Then if needed I adjust the sides ever so slightly. In this case to narrow the reed. I have to admit though even with all the possible potential disasters adjusting a reed in this manner ... I never had a problem. The adjustment process is very methodical and slow. The changes are ever so slight and incremental. And I know from experience what works for me. I never had a problem with leaks adjusting the sides.
Of course the best solution is to have a suitable shaper tip/shaperform.
So the lesson here is that cane shaped on a shaper machine with the same dimensions do not have the same dimensions as cane shaped on a shaper tip and handle.
If I had to do it all over again ... I definitely would have tried the shaperform on trial for at least a month.
I just inquired if I can buy some shaped cane from various shaperforms as a way to narrow my trial choices.
By the way - I love the machine .... way cool to shape cane ... consistent sealing and shape. I hated using a razor blade/utility knife etc......
never could be consistent 100%.
I also discovered that shaping the cane on the machine dry is better than wet. I'll make some reeds and see how it goes.
Thanks for the reply.
Mark
Post Edited (2014-05-25 05:00)
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Author: Scandinavian
Date: 2014-05-25 01:12
Hello again,
If you shape dry cane I'm thinking you will end up with wider shaped cane than if you shape it wet.
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Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2014-05-25 04:59
I know it sounds counter intuitive.
Wet cane expands so you would expect more to be removed.
Maybe it's the way the dry cane lays on the shaperform.
I really don't know.
I keep you informed. I'll shape both ways again. Dry and Wet. Lets see if my observations are consistent.
Mark
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Author: Scandinavian
Date: 2014-05-25 20:30
Interesting, please do post your results! I remember trying to shape dry cane on the RnS machine, cracking a lot of pieces in the process..
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Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2014-05-25 20:35
Hi,
I shaped at least 10 pieces of dry cane .... no cracks a all.
I'll keep you informed on my results.
Mark
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