The Oboe BBoard
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Author: newedit617
Date: 2014-05-23 05:31
Hello all,
I'm in the midst of my first repadding. What a tedious process this is! I have a new profound respect for people who do this for a living.
The main question is how do you know how deep/thick the pads should be? I have placed two newly padded keys back onto the oboe (the two upper joint trill keys) and the pads are thicker than how my main playable oboe looks. Is this inherently a problem or can the oboe is "in adjustment with itself" even with thicker pads?
Another issue is that some of the keys do not close all the way. For example, both trill keys should be closed when the oboe is at rest. The B/C# does this just fine, but when I press forcibly on the C/D trill key it moves a bit further down. Does this mean the pads on one or the other of the trill keys is still too thick?
One last question for now would be how to proceed if a given pad is not level. Let's suppose the wedge test is good for three "sides" or "corners" of the pad but not the fourth. How do you know whether the one side needs to be thicker, versus the three sides needing to be leveled down?
Thank you for any insights you might be able to share in this process.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2014-05-23 13:37
You want the pads to have an even amount showing around the pad cup instead of being wedge or horse hoof shaped. Each oboe will have its own set (the pad thickness/amount of sidewall showing) so use existing pads as a guide as to how the replacement should look. The diameters of the pads will also influence the thickness and the set with it being relative to the pad diameter. If the pads are too thick, this will compromise venting and adjusting.
When seating pads, make them marginally heavier at the front and lighter at the back (nearest the key barrel) to ensure they won't feel spongy while playing, but they still have to seat fully all the way round.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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