 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: WoodwindOz
Date: 2010-08-11 08:57
So, I have been play testing the Marigaux. What a beautiful instrument! Tuning and scale are impeccable, pitch centres on high notes are stable, the instrument itself has hardly been played since new (2001ish). My first three days with it have seen a few problems however...(and I will apologise in advance for my long story - it is all new and exciting for me!)
The 1st octave pad was sticking as soon as I opened it the first time. I searched this forum and while I couldn't do the dollar bill trick (our notes are plastic here, so not sure it would have the same effect), I cleaned the pad with some methylated spirits on a scrap of old cloth and it has not been a problem since.
I took it to rehearsal last night, and about 2/3 through, nothing would sound on the right hand. I looked down and saw that the F pad had completely come adrift. Off to my long suffering repairer I went today, and he fixed it while I waited.
Now to the REAL question:
I have now played since arriving home (it was fine at the repairers), and am again struggling with E-C. The regulation between the two E keys (the one you touch and the small one above it) is not right - there is a small amount of play in the small key, and I have tried the 'touch' test, which made a significant difference to the response. The same between the small key and the D key. Now I can see exactly which two screws I need to adjust, but the problem is, they will not move. An I am loath to force them as I don't want to damage the screw. It is the smallest fraction that they need to move, but they just won't! Tips?
Thanks,
Rachel
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-08-11 10:08
Make sure you have a quality screwdriver - the tip of the screwdriver must be really hard-tempered steel, the sides of the tip should be parallel at the business-end, and it should fit so tightly into the slot that the screwdriver can be placed into the screw-head and not slip out when horizontal.
for adjusting these screws it is important to press the little pad closed with one hand while adjusting with the other - otherwise, you are simply creating a bigger indentation in the cork, and likely making things worse.
Try unscrewing a little, first - it may help loosen it up.
J.
Post Edited (2010-08-11 10:08)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-08-11 11:09
Has this Marigaux been serviced before you got it?
If not, I'd suggest you get it fully serviced as a Marigaux oboe of this age will tend to have natural cork glued under adjusting screws with shellac which gets chewed through by the adjusting screw tips.
It's advisable to have all these key corks replaced with a much harder wearing material (eg. rubco/tech cork/gummi kork) as the adjusting screw tips won't chew through this stuff easily. Consider the amount of adjusting screws on a Marigaux oboe (which has more than most) and all these adjustments are critical, so you want the best and toughest silencing material under them all.
While being serviced, the repairer can check all the adjusting screws and if need be, countersink them deeper into the pips so there's more adjustment if they're at their lower limit.
Once this is done, you're free to get on with enjoying your 901.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: WoodwindOz
Date: 2010-08-11 11:11
Thanks for the link mjf - I have bookmarked it! I have also already ordered Pat McFarland's adjustment guide from Forrests - but of course being in Aust means it is still in transit!
And jhoyla, your advice was spot on - I now have a fully functioning Marigaux in time for my next rehearsal. Backing out the screw first was the 'turning point' (sorry!).
They say bad things happen in threes - let's hope it stays intact with all it's adjustments for the next rehearsal!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: WoodwindOz
Date: 2010-08-11 12:24
Chris, my tech said it hadn't been serviced as there was some build up of lubricant in the mechanism, so he recommended a good service and clean if I planned to keep it. He does do oboes and has overhauled a couple for me (and has done a very good job), but prefers not to do them as he doesn't have as much knowledge about them as he'd like.
If anyone knows of any good double reed techs on the east coast of Australia, as there aren't any here in the west, I am all ears!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-08-22 12:12
Believe it or not, I still send my oboes to the US to get them serviced or fixed. For the longest time, I still have not found a reliable and trust worthy repairman who doesnt overcharge in the Pacific Rim !
Yes, I'd rather pay the Fedex costs to get peace of mind that the service or fix was done well.
Hope u have better luck in Australia.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: OboeAgain
Date: 2010-08-22 13:56
Chris,
How do you feel about nylon or teflon tips on the adjustment screws?
Walter
Walter
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-08-22 14:54
Not so keen on teflon tips as they're easily crushed (teflon can crumble under heavy pressure) and usually have square cut tips, though I do prefer nylon tips as they don't crush like teflon. The usual cause for teflon tips to become crushed is after an accident (a knock or fall) or someone's been a bit too heavy-handed with the screwdriver.
Though they can be noisy due to the hardness of the material, but provided the ends are rounded off they should work smoothly.
I've often fitted nylon tipped adjusting screws (drilled out and glued a piece of nylon harp or guitar string into the screw tip) in the 3rd 8ve and LH1 fingerplate as they make direct contact with the joint surface and often don't have much movement in them. The nylon tip can then be melted or sanded (or melted and sanded) to make it domed instead of leaving the tip cut square so there aren't any sharp edges to dig or catch onto anything to make it run smoothly.
On clarinets I usually do this for the throat G#-A adjustment instead of sticking a piece of rubco on the throat A key as there's only a tiny gap between these keys. Also the adjustment on the LH forked Eb/Bb mechanism as there's a fair amount of sliding motion in this, but again it does make the action noisy.
My plastic Selmer Signet "bad weather" oboe has nylon tipped adjusting screws throughout (including the extra ones I've fitted) but it can sound like a typewriter - mainly in the RH main action linked to the forked F vent.
Marigaux oboes/cors sometimes have a few completely plastic screws (probably around three at the most), but most are blued steel so require some kind of silencing material beneath them. Lorees have teflon tipped adjusters used pretty much throughout.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2010-08-22 15:19)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: OboeAgain
Date: 2010-08-24 20:27
Thanks, Chris. I have also installed nylon tips in some adjustment screws, particularly on the clarinet as you mentioned. I was able to purchase a long piece of 80 pound test fishing line that works quite well. I have not melted and sanded as you suggest. I'll have to give that a try.
I was working on a Fox 330 today and noticed that all of the adjustment screws have a some tip material. It's white, but I don't know if it's teflon or nylon.
Walter
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-08-24 21:46
You can find out if it's teflon or nylon by heating it in a flame - teflon won't melt, but nylon will.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
