Author: Bobo
Date: 2007-09-06 18:19
"I wouldn't advise anyone without any experience in adjusting oboes to take a screwdriver to one, as any adjustment that's been overdone by a small amount will cause grief."
I appreciate the point immensely; however, for anyone who's even slightly mechanically inclined, it's worth the $15 investment in an adjustment manual (mcfarland or sawicki), which give very systematic instructions that allow one to methodically adjust the instrument from top to bottom and understand the linkages (which are after all visible right there on the oboe). They deal with Chris's issue by instructing one to loosen some screws by a half turn and then tighten them again bit by bit until the right point has been found. If done carefully, this helps avoid overadjustment. At first this takes time to master, but then becomes a routine. The downside of not mastering this relatively simple (though limited in the case of bad pads and springs, etc.) skill is relying on someone else to do it on their timetable or at cost, which means playing an out of adjustment oboe much of the time. Also, there is nothing more satisfying than turning a few screws and having beautiful low notes suddenly pop out or other notes come into tune!
Chris, one question I still have though: McFarland is big on the primary keys having slightly more drag than the secondaries (everywhere but the low B/Bb pads). Sawicki almost always recommends finding the point of equal drag. Is the Sawicki method better, if harder to accomplish, or does McFarland have it right?
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The Oboe BBoard
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