 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Obreizh
Date: 2022-04-01 16:09
Hi,
I'd like to "build" a stand for my oboe... with beautiful wood, I am able to find someone who can "turn" this for me.
This is not for the price (cause it probably cost more than a K&M stand that price around 18/20€)
Is there specific things to think
- specific wood to prefer... or avoid
- specific treatment to apply to the wood... or also to avoid ?
- about dimensions... do I have to only try to reproduce the inner of my oboe, or also have some "slot/channel" to allow humidity/water to flow if necessary ?
All sizing will be appreciate if you have... (I do not have any stand to take measures and compare)
France / Rennes
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2022-04-02 04:35
It doesn't matter what type of wood you use as long as it fits inside the bell and has a secure and solid base so it can't fall over. Also it's best to have the bell sit on a flat base instead of the peg supporting all the weight of the instrument as that can bind in the bell and also crack it, especially if you have an oboe with a ringless bell. You can either paint or lacquer the wood once done (polyurethane or acrylic lacquer will do), or even use carnauba wax for a high gloss finish.
You want the peg to be like the wooden K&M ones as they have a cushioned base for the bell to sit onto to distribute the weight evenly and also for the peg to be narrow enough to both hold the instrument and so it doesn't bind inside the bell or lower joint bore. Also cushion the base with felt, neoprene or similar soft and durable material to minimise noise when using the peg, just like this K&M one:
https://d1aeri3ty3izns.cloudfront.net/media/22/229079/1200/preview.jpg
Measure the inside diameter of the bell mouth and take around 2mm off that and do the same for the lower joint bore at the end of the tenon and make a cone to that length and taper. The base the peg can be made the same maximum outer diameter of the bell. If using felt to cushion the base where the bell rests, you won't need any drainage slots. If you choose not to have a cushion, then you can make some grooves in the base radiating out from the centre - either cut six to eight grooves around it to allow any condensation to run out.
As for legs or a baseplate, either make them from metal so they fold up, just like K&M ones, or screw it onto a wooden board with a captive nut on the underside of the board so it can be unscrewed for easier transport instead of fixed and looking like a mortar board.
https://platform-production-assets-us-west-2.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/hw/2018/07/MAN10165.jpeg
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: mberkowski
Date: 2022-04-05 02:13
With regard to workable dimensions, a few years ago I worked out designs for oboe and English horn pegs which I 3D printed for a Hamilton peg base I had. I went through a few iterations before covid hit and I lost access to the university printers I'd been using, but I've been using them for since then with success. I modeled them after a cross between the good Blayman pegs (which were discontinued or hard to get) and the newer style plastic K&M pegs with slots for airflow and a bit more secure fit than the K&M. I used a threaded rod through the length of the peg for strength and to attach to my base - a huge upgrade over the poor quality and scarce wooden Hamilton pegs.
The models, I made with a free Tinkercad account on the web and would happily share the designs if you or your wood worker could figure out how to make a cross-sectional template or examine the CAD file to note the various dimensions.
It was a fun project I did because it was hard to find good pegs that fit the less common 1/4"-20 thread Hamilton uses.
Michael
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The Clarinet Pages
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