 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: oboejohn
Date: 2021-11-05 17:38
Is there an oboe adjustment guide that INCLUDES the adjustment for the small screws on the left hand Eb mechanism (the arm that connects to the D) and similar tiny screw (on the upper join) for the arm that connects to the A.
I hope this described the screws I ask about. They are never mentioned in the oboe adjustment guides I have.
John
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-11-06 22:26
Set the split D#-E trill mechanism like this:
Check the LH Eb key to see if there's a slight gap between its adjusting screw at the lower end of the LH cluster and the Eb master spring - there should always be a small gap when the LH cluster is at rest to be sure the Eb pad will remain closed. You'll feel this by holding and gently rocking the Eb and low Bb keys. If not, then back off the adjusting screw.
If you constantly lie your oboe down on the LH cluster side and the feather keys have been bent which will prevent any successful adjustment, then this will compromise things and you'll need an oboe specialist to deal with it. Always lie your oboe down on the RH low C/Eb side and never on the feather keys (LH cluster) side if you're in the habit of laying them down instead of using a stand as there's less keywork to get damaged when laid on the low C/Eb side (or it's easier to fix if it does get damaged).
Assuming everything is working fine and in regulation so you're getting low B and Bb easily, hold down the LH Eb key and check the closure of the RH3 pad using a feeler gauge and also check if there's a gap between the body and the underside of the Eb master spring. If the RH3 pad doesn't close and the Eb master spring is tight against the body, then adjust the adjusting screw on the linkage arm from the LH cluster to the RH3 fingerplate so the pad will close whenever you hold the LH Eb key down. Don't overdo it as that will diminish the venting of the RH3 fingerplate.
Set up the top joint Ab-Bb trill mechanism like this (if it's equipped with an adjusting screw):
Hold down the G# key and check the closure of the LH2 fingerplate. If the LH2 fingerplate doesn't fully close, adjust the screw on the clutch until it does, but don't overdo it as that will both diminish the venting of LH2 and also the G# key.
If the linkage doesn't have an adjusting screw (with both ends soldered to a single key barrel), then it's adjusted by carefully bending the linkage. Similarly with the split linkage with a clutch and no adjusting screw can be adjusted with the correct thickness silencing material and some careful bending.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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