 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-05-31 19:55
Attachment: IMG_7002.jpeg (333k)
There does not seem to be a linke between the 3rd laft hand and the lower bevt only a rocker arm to go to the top 8v vent.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-06-01 00:00
The underside of the arch on the lower side of the rocker should make contact with the lower 8ve cup arm and the rocker should be powered with a flat spring - that will determine which vent opens at any point.
Make sure there's some double action (lost motion) between the LH3 ring key link and the rocker as you gently lower the LH3 ring - that safety double action should be there to be sure the lower vent remains closed while LH3 is off the ring key.
Also be sure the lower end of the rocker doesn't make contact with the joint surface as that too will prevent the lower vent from closing while the 8ve key is held down.
At least your one has adjusting screws on the rocker - mine doesn't, so all adjustments are made by the thickness of the silencing materials used, the thickness of the pads and by bending things to get the adjustments spot on.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2019-06-01 10:07)
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-06-01 09:01
Hi Chris - It seems that what ever I do will not obey the order of vent pads up or down. I cant seem to get that lower vent pad to close when I press the LH3 key - when I do it raises the lower end of the rocker and allows for the spring to drive the lower 8ve pad up and the upper rocker end lowers the top pad/ I did find that the cork was missing under the arch and the octave key pads were a bit thick - so what I have now is when nothing is pressed both pads are lowered when I press the 8v key the top pad opens and the bottom is closed - when I only press the lh3 key the bottom pad opens and the top is closed - if I press the 8ve key and the left hand 3 key the top closes and the bottom opens. Kind of the opposite of what you explained to me. Something is reversed but I can figure it out -OH well thanks for your help but ill keep at it.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-06-01 10:24
Are both 8ve vent pads being held closed while the 8ve key is released? If not, adjust them to be sure both are being held closed while the 8ve key is released. Also check the rocker isn't making contact with the top joint as that will prevent the lower vent pad from closing while the 8ve key is held down.
Can you feel a small amount of double action when you gently lower the LH3 ring key? If not, then adjust the screws on the rocker and make sure the lower vent is in contact with the underside of the arch.
Is there double action between the G# touchpiece and the wire linking it to the LH3 ring key? If not, then bend the wire or the G# key accordingly.
Is the flat spring on the rocker strong enough to hold the lower vent closed? That has to have enough power to hold the lower vent closed.
Is the 8ve key master spring tension strong enough? That has to have enough tension to hold both 8ve vents closed.
Are the needle springs springing the 8ve vents sprung lightly enough? They have to be sprung with enough tension so they will rise when the 8ve key is held down, but not too much tension to prevent them keeping the 8ve key from returning or too light so the 8ve vent pads won't stick.
Does all the keywork move freely? Make sure there's no resistance anywhere in the mechanism - check the condition of the screws to be sure they're not bent, check the long bridge from LH3 ring isn't bent, check the trill key touchpiece key barrel isn't bent, check the LH1 fingerplate key barrel isn't bent and the pinned steel running through it isn't bent. Also check the pillars aren't misaligned and everything moves freely with the springs disengaged or while the keys are off.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-06-01 17:42
Attachment: IMG_7017.jpg (782k)
Attachment: IMG_7018.jpg (899k)
Attachment: IMG_7021.jpg (1378k)
Chris this is a close up of the top joint. It almost looks like it has new tonehole tops and someone made a groove in the LH 3 tonehole area to allow for a metal projection that sticks out of the LH3 ring to lower and not touch the body. Both 8v pads are held down when the key is not depressed.
Post Edited (2019-06-01 17:44)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-06-03 02:04
Everything appears to be in order and chances are the slot was cut in the body for the wire on the LH3 ring key when it was made. With automatic 8ve mechanisms you will feel like you're chasing your tail when regulating them - even more so with a fully automatic full Gillet conservatoire model which are at least laden with adjusting screws so every single aspect can be finely adjusted.
My Mollenhauer one is a much simpler/earlier model as it has two separate side Bb and C keys (and the thumb touch for the Bb) whereas your one has the Barret action side key for both Bb and C and the thumb key duplicates that (effectively working like thumbplate system but in reverse).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-06-03 04:47
Eeek - and I am just wanting to play the oboe. Anyway I got it cheap then restored the item - it looked like hell - missing pads - the insides were nasty just a mess - but I think Ill be patient and plug away. I am a better mechanic than player I guess. Thanks for your help you are the only one that knows these -
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-06-09 00:33
Move along - nothing to see here.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2019-06-09 00:38)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2019-06-09 00:36
Attachment: loreeauto8vemech.jpg (108k)
Loree use a fairly similar fully auto 8ve mechanism with the long rocker determining which of the vents is open.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2019-06-09 00:39)
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Author: steve1221
Date: 2019-06-13 05:43
Yes - I just obtained a cabart special - and it uses something similar. I am going to refurb that one and see what I like better. Prob selling the Monnig.
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