 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: oboist2
Date: 2018-12-15 02:58
I play on an old Louis Cor Anglais, but am having difficulties with all the notes below G in both main octaves. The problem is that the little brille key between the A and the G opens when I depress the F# key. I have not lost any bumpers nor have I played around with the height adjusting screws except to try and rectify this problem. The instrument is full automatic, Thumbplate 123 system. I attach a few pics of the mechanism near the problem in the hope that someone can help me with this.
Post Edited (2018-12-15 03:08)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-15 03:27
The top joint Bb key (the small pad cup between LH fingers 2 and 3) should be held closed when both LH3 and RH1 are held down.
As it's fully automatic, the Bb key may be linked to the long bridge linking the G# key to the automatic 8ve mechanism which is in turn linked to the LH3 fingerplate, or the Bb key is held closed by a linkage arm on the front side directly from the LH3 fingerplate.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboist2
Date: 2018-12-15 04:06
Thanks, Chris, what is the best way of working out which of these it is, and what can I do to correct it. I would like to be able to practice before I send it down to Richard Craig in Adelaide in early February for a service
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-15 17:47
Ok, now the attachments have shown up I can see exactly what the problem is.
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/10,543/20181213_1153191.jpg
Your cor is essentially thumbplate system with fully automatic 8ves, so the top joint Bb key shouldn't be linked to be closed by LH3. Only at some point, someone has tried to convert it to dual system and added a crude adjusting screw to the bridge from the Bb pad cup to the side key (which duplicates the thumbplate for trilling).
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/10,544/20181213_1153251.jpg
Normally a German spec or conservatoire system instrument will have a side G# key and the Bb key is linked to LH3, so this one hasn't been converted correctly - it's had the linkages added at some later stage rather than having been built as a German spec instrument. Thumbplate systems shouldn't have the Bb key linked to LH3 as that will bend the side key if you use it and the side key on cors is prone to being bent or broken at the best of times.
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/10,545/20181213_1153301.jpg
It doesn't have the 1-2-3 system whereby putting down any RH finger will give Bb and C - there'd be a link from the F# clutch (with the two adjusting screws) to an extra bridge key bypassing and linked to RH1 to raise the linkage but leaving RH1 raised when operated by RH 2 and 3 (and closing RH1 will also raise the linkage).
Louis have made German spec (fully automatic) ring key conservatoire systems to order as have Howarth (their S4 model) who took over from Louis, only they worked in the correct way.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboist2
Date: 2018-12-16 00:55
Thanks Chris, and I appreciate your advice, but what can I do to rectify my initial problem. I have had this cor for a couple of years now and this is the first time that problem happened. I will send it back to Richard Craig in early Feb for a service, but is there anything I can do until then?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-16 02:58
Attachment: louiscor.jpg (446k)
Apart from major and expensive surgery to reconfigure the LH main action to work as a conservatoire system, adjust the screw marked with the arrow in the attachment so LH3 closes the Bb key. It's far from ideal going on how this cor has been converted, but it's the only thing that'll allow your cor to play anything below G.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboist2
Date: 2018-12-16 04:24
Thanks Chris, Yes adjusting that screw did at least enable me to play below G. I really seldom use conservatoire fingerings as I generally play thumbplate, so I shall dispense with any major and expensive surgery. It is odd though that I had absolutely no issues for nearly 2 years since the instrument had been restored for this problem to surface now. The previous owner or her teacher may have had the adptions done in the 1950's or so as her oboes were 123 system as well, although from my untrained eye, their keywork was slightly different. I have a 1930s Louis oboe and an 1891 Loree oboe that use the same system. Perhaps I had moved that screw with my cleaning cloth when whiping down afterwards. It is great that we have someone with your expertise still using this board.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-16 17:25
As you use thumbplate fingerings, see if you can have the con bar removed to revert it back to pure thumbplate system and then you can dispense with that adjusting screw added to the bridge as that's what's causing all the hassle on your cor.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboist2
Date: 2018-12-17 00:52
Thanks, Chris, I will speak to my repairer when I send it back to him for service.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-17 02:03
Richard Craig will know what to do to revert it back to pure thumbplate system - that should be the best all-round solution for it and for yourself. The adjusting screw fitted to the side key bridge looks as though it's been glued to prevent it going out of adjustment.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-12-22 12:21
I had a pure thumbplate system Loree cor in not so long ago, but that also had the link from LH3 to the top joint Bb key.
I disengaged that link as it's not required on pure thumbplate instruments as it won't allow the side key to be used while LH3 is held down.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2018-12-22 12:33)
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