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 Left C# photo request
Author: Lux 
Date:   2017-01-07 04:34

Heya folks. I wanted to see if someone could possibly take a pic or two of their left C# key mechanism. I know that Chris P has done this already but his modification places the key on the lower table of the LH and I would like to have mine placed next to the left F. I'm in repair school at the moment and wanted to see what all would have to be done in order to make this mod. FWIW, I would be making this mod to my Yamaha 811.

Thank you for your time.

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 Re: Left C# photo request
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2017-01-07 09:07

Mine is placed next to the LH F key - I made it specifically so the LH C# touchpiece kicks up at the end to put it at the same height as the LH F key instead of being level with the LH Eb touchpiece. Otherwise it would be a stretch to reach it if it was below and level with the Eb touchpiece:

http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/10,209/feather%20keys%20002.JPG

Find the diagrams and other photos in this thread:
http://test.woodwind.org/oboe/BBoard/read.html?f=10&i=20497&t=20477

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2017-01-07 09:12)

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 Re: Left C# photo request
Author: Chris P 
Date:   2017-01-13 20:46

Do be aware that you'll have to replace both of the banana key pillars with two equal height ones (both short) for the rocker to work better - that and milling out a slot in the body beneath the low B key foot.

Those are the only mods to do on the body itself as all the rest is involving the keywork - you're basically rebuilding and modifying the entire left hand and most of the right hand pinky keys. Only the Eb and C# pad cups, the RH Eb key, RH main action, C-D trill key and LH F linkages will be left as they were.

You can always leave the low B and Bb unlinked if you want as low Bb can be played by holding down both the low B and Bb touches together - that shouldn't be much of a problem and in some ways it could be at an advantage.

I linked mine up but can't do that with a tab as normal, so I fitted a linkage arm right at the tenon end of the lower joint which seemed to be the easiest thing at the time. It works fine, but you do have to make sure the bell is lined up spot on for it to work (especially if you've got cork pads fitted throughout).

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010

The opinions I express are my own.

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