 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-05 01:07
Hello All,
As an adult learner with a distant musical background (clarinet in middle/high school and guitar in adult life), I've decided to take up the oboe. I plan to play mostly at home, and possibly join a community band once my competency warrants.
It seems that the standard practice when buying an oboe is to have several sent to you on trial and then pick out the one that best suits the musician.
In that light, I have three oboes on the way for trial, a Howarth S40C (new), a Yamaha 411M (advertised in "mint" condition), and a Fox 330 (1990's vintage, but recently back from Fox with an overhaul). All are from reputable dealers and come with a warranty. Based on reading this site and others, it appears that these models form a pretty good cross section of the $2-$3k price point. I'd like to buy an intermediate instrument at the top of my budget right at the beginning so I'm not tempted to trade up any time soon.
It seems that experienced oboe players will have different and personal views on the instrument that works for them, but what should a beginner look for when testing a batch of instruments? I plan to show them to my instructor, but would like to have as much information as I can when making the decision.
Thanks for any thoughts!
-Wes
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Author: oboi
Date: 2015-12-05 02:17
The most important thing is to have the instrument in proper adjustment, without any technical issues. Since they are from "reputable" dealers, they should be technically sound, but may need a few adjustments as something could have been bumped out of alignment on the way to you. An instructor should be able to easily figure that out. The sound coming out from a beginner will not be a good test for its potential, but if you listen to your instructor, say, play a piece on each instrument, you might be able to glean from it a sound preference. Of course, the reed is an important factor which can change the sound. If you're going to be using reeds from your instructor, then perhaps you can make a good comparison.
Your instrument should have as much keywork as possible to facilitate ease of playing, and painless transition to a full keywork instrument in the potential future. Also, ergonomics is an important factor. Weight is an important factor for me and my instrument visibly has "slimmer" keywork than others. I also have a longer Left-F and that for sure aids my playing.
Plastic or wood.... sound quality isn't much of an issue at this stage. Just a matter of care.
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Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2015-12-05 19:11
I don't really think the first intermediate oboe you own ... as long as it is in good adjustment and has no major problems .... is of crucial importance. As you develop as an oboist you will learn more about your personal preferences and technical needs. This will eventually drive you buy more Oboes until you are satisfied with your musical stance.
So think of this as your first "good enough" instrument on the road to enhanced playing ... which will require a better professional model in the future.
Good luck,
Mark
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-06 07:26
Thanks, this is pretty much what I was thinking. Will let the teacher assess there state and go from there.
-Wes
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-12-06 10:56
I think you should really consider the Howarth and the Fox over the Yamaha as both are semi pro instruments with nearly all the gadgets found on pro level oboes - they only lack the RH3 split D#-E trill mechanism, but are otherwise fully loaded.
The Yamaha 400 series is more of a step-up model from a basic beginner model as it lacks several of the features found on both the Howarth and the Fox which puts them into a higher league, but ultimately it's about which one you like best.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-10 06:12
Thanks Chris,
All of the instruments arrived and with the help of my instructor, I selected the Howarth.
Quick question, how smooth should the bore be on a new instrument like this? I have some clarinets form the 60's and they have shiny, smooth bores .
-Wes
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-10 06:12
-deleted-
Duplicate post. Sorry.
-Wes
Post Edited (2015-12-10 06:18)
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-10 06:15
Attachment: image1.JPG (752k)
Thanks Chris,
All of the instruments arrived and with the help of my instructor, I selected the Howarth.
Quick question, how smooth should the bore be on a new instrument like this? I have some clarinets form the 60's and they have shiny, smooth bores, but the grain is very apparent on this oboe.
I've attached a pic that I sent to Howarth, and would like to know what others think.
Thanks,
-Wes
Post Edited (2015-12-10 06:18)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2015-12-10 11:47
That is very rough looking, but it seems to be a thing with oboe makers to leave the bore rough from reaming as that makes for a much better sound - some of the best playing oboes have bores that haven't been polished to a mirror finish after they've been reamed to size. So long as the bore has been oiled, you shouldn't have any problems, but still check with Howarth to see what they think.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2015-12-10 18:08
Howarth asked that I return it so they can have a look to see what's amiss. They were quick to respond, and happy to help.
-Wes
Post Edited (2015-12-11 01:39)
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Author: SarahC
Date: 2016-01-19 10:04
You can't go wrong with the howarth.
I would have got that model if money permitted. You can easily do diplomas on it etc.
When I read the first post, i was going to say check for features. Some features are almost essential, and some not so much. For instance, a third octave key is a great benefit, a Left F key pretty much essential. And a venting forked f. And semi auto octaves.
The three brands you mentioned are all reputable.. so then it is down to the condition of pads (etc) in a second hand instrument, and the features. As depending on the age of the instrument, and the market it was aimed at, can effect what key work it has.
:)
Enjoy fiddling with your oboe!
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Author: rothko
Date: 2016-01-19 23:22
i have a howarth S20c, which is the student model -- the S40c is the professional one, i believe. i love the sound, love love love it.
i tried a yamaha when i was looking at the howarth, and it seems nice and stable, a very good horn but in my opinion too bright for my taste.
fox 330? only if you can't afford the others. they're alright but again they're very much studenty oboes.
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Author: rothko
Date: 2016-01-19 23:27
I'm so glad you picked the Howarth! i had two S20c howarths to try and the one seemed to have a more stable lower register than the other, so that was the tie-breaker there.
i must say i haven't noticed anything weird with the bore.
Post Edited (2016-01-19 23:28)
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Author: Wes1973
Date: 2016-01-20 00:05
Quick update:
I returned the first Howarth on their recommendation and with the full enthusiasm of the retailer. They said that it appeared that something was amiss with the bore polishing. Long story short, I have a new one in-hand and the difference is like night and day. It's a beauty.
Their recommendation that the upper joint sleeve allows for less of a break-in regime was a happy development, but in the end moot because my short practice times are tied to my still-developing embouchure.
My takeaway from the purchase process is a bit of trepidation about trying many instruments before buying. It's a sound recommendation, but in these days of mail-order purchasing, shipping costs rise very quickly. At $80 a pop per round trip, if I had tried 10 oboes these costs would have pushed me into another price bracket.
Anyway, the instrument is purchased and I can move on to the figuring out of these darn reeds...
Thanks everyone!
-Wes
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