 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2011-11-29 18:50
I haven't bought a sharpening stone in decades. Does anyone have any suggestions? Ceramic? India stone? Oil stone? Diamond stone? What about some of the newer products? I have an Arkansas stone. I'm not looking to buy anything expensive, just a decent stone. Perhaps a stone with medium grit on one side and fine grit on the other. Open to suggestions though.
Thanks.
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-11-29 19:06
I just bought a lot of about 7 stones and sticks on eBay. I will let you know when I have results! Have you been using the same stone for decades? How have you cleaned it? I've been using the same Japanese water stone for about 6 years, and I'm having doubts about how well it's working these days. Does anyone have an estimate of the life of a water stone? Thanks for the piggyback ride on your question, Hautboy.
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2011-11-29 22:28
Well, in response to pliscapoivre, I actually have had more than one Arkansas stone, which is why I haven't had to buy any in so long, but they are getting dirty and not much grit left for sharpening. The best stone I bought was actually from an Army surplus store, but there aren't any around where I live now. I've heard of people using sharpening sticks, and I' ve heard of Japanese water stones, but I think they are expensive.
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-11-30 07:52
Hi Hautboy,
My particular Japanese stone sells now for $35 at Forrests. Yes, I feel the same way, that my stone is too dirty to do its job anymore (at least, the fine side -- the coarser side is still fine). Maybe someone can share a way of cleaning that will save us from having to buy more stones...
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Author: kimber
Date: 2011-11-30 15:08
As an amateur reedmaker and novice knife sharpener...I really like the sticks. Makes everyday sharpening easier, which means I am more likely to keep my knives sharp. I do need to dig out the regular flat stones 3-4 times a year (or my teacher does) to fine tune out the knives again. I have heard that you will wear your knives down quicker with sticks - make sure you have hard metal, not some of the softer grade knives.
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-11-30 19:29
I just called Forrests and asked them about the Japanese stone. They said that they're not sure of its precise expected life span, but they did say that people usually buy new ones before 6 years have passed and congratulated me for keeping it going for so long! 
I also got some good information today from someone on eBay from whom I just bought some stones and other sharpening stuff -- maybe it will help:
I always used either Rigotti or MCW Razor-style knives. The metal is hard enough to keep a decent edge for a while, but not so hard that putting a new edge on the knife is difficult. The diamond rod and stone are extremely rough and they remove a lot of metal quickly, so they're best used for grinding a new edge onto the knife. All of the other devices: ceramic stone/stick, metal rod and india stones are good for general sharpening use. I ended up preferring the india stone to all of the others. It's what I kept on my reed desk and also in my reed tool case that I carried with me.
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2011-11-30 22:21
I was looking at the Forrest's site and saw the diamond stone. I thought it would be a good stone for creating a burr but maybe I would need a finer grit stone for finishing? I wasn't sure. I also heard that the jende knives are really nice. I just have a basic vitry knife. Seems pretty good, but I think it's a softer metal so I have to sharpen it quite often.
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-12-01 09:23
Yes, from what this eBay person wrote, the diamond stone is too powerful for everyday finishing. I have been really happy with the Japanese water stones, but the India stone is $10 cheaper at Forrests.
I've heard wonderful things about Jende too, many of them right here on the BBoard! I like knives that weigh in my hand, and for that reason (among others) am enjoying my first Graf right now.
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2011-12-05 04:29
A couple of thoughts here -
Japanese water stones are relatively soft compared to western oil stones. The surface is constantly wearing away, exposing new abrasive particles. If you don't use enough water to wash them clean they may glaze over. You can refresh the surface using a sheet of 320 grit wet-or-dry style sandpaper on a flat surface like your kitchen counter (if it's flat, not tiled...). Make pencil marks all over the stone surface, soak it well so you don't breathe dust and sand it until the pencil marks are gone. It should be as good as new.
I don't much like sticks, because unless you're a surgeon your hand is probably not steady enough to provide the same angle each stroke. This means some strokes are back on the heel of the bevel and don't affect the edge while others are on the edge only, giving instant gratification, but rounding the edge until a re-grinding is necessary.
I recently bought a Shapton 1500 grit waterstone from Jendé and it's by far the best stone I've ever used. It cuts rapidly but gives a near-mirror finish to the edge. I can't recommend Shapton strongly enough!
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-12-05 09:52
Thank you so much, Bob, for the advice regarding the Japanese stone. I will get some of the sandpaper you recommended.
My colleague in Mexico had a set of Shapton stones, and he did wonders with them.
Does anyone have any thoughts about leather strops for sharpening?
Post Edited (2011-12-05 11:22)
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2011-12-05 18:42
The leather strop was good for the barber to break off the 'wire edge' on his freshly sharpened razor - the same bent edge of the blade we call the burr. This leaves the sharpest possible cutting edge, but this is not a scraping edge.
A strop with abrasive compound will develop an excellent edge, but because the blade presses into the softer leather (even with a 'hard' leather strop) the strop tends to wrap across the edge, providing a quick edge but ultimately rounding it, requiring frequent re-grinding the basic profile. A similar result as the sticks, but for a different reason...
My best advice is to hold the knife in both hands at the appropriate angle for the back bevel (even on a double hollow ground blade) and flat on the stone on the front face. The more accurately you can maintain that back-bevel angle, the less rounding of your edge will occur and the less often you will need no regrind that basic angle.
The first secret of reed making
is a sharp knife.
The second secret of reed making
is a sharp knife.
- Stevens Hewitt
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2011-12-10 17:02
Thank you, Robin. I've looked at some of your materials, but not at the sharpening video. I'll do so soon!
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Author: pliscapoivre
Date: 2012-01-08 13:18
Japanese stone update:
Bob's advice worked perfectly. I used 240 grit as I couldn't find 320, but it did the trick. My stone is indeed as good as new, and my knife is sharp. Many thanks.
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Author: huboboe
Date: 2012-01-09 04:01
We aim to please :-)
- Bob
Robert Hubbard
WestwindDoubleReed.com
1-888-579-6020
bob@westwinddoublereed.com
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Author: DrewSorensenMusic
Date: 2012-01-09 05:13
I'm really new to reed making, but I got the two diamond plates from Forrests, Fine (600) and Superfine (1200), and they work like a charm. 3 swipes and done. Funny thing though, to my hand it feels like the superfine has a coarser grit than the fine, but I had the fine first, so maybe there's a break in period. No water, no oil, no hassel.
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Author: claire70
Date: 2012-01-15 20:20
Ohhhhh.... (sound of light bulb coming on). I always thought that my knife sharpening technique was just a bit dodgy, but reading this I now realise that my stone isn't great either. That makes me feel better! Now, where's the sandpaper?
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Author: DrewSorensenMusic
Date: 2012-01-15 23:02
A note on tending to the burr.
The Weber book states to sharpen the knife blade at 15 to 20 degrees on the stone, both sides. Then, to remove the burr, use a 10 to 12 degree stroke on the burr side with slightly less pressure than when sharpening. I have used this process, and it seems to work very well for me. I use my finest stone, which is only 1200 grit diamond, and feel I create a very good edge.
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