 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: ceri
Date: 2010-06-19 13:21
I have a new wooden oboe which is just under 2 months old. And would like some advice from more seasoned players about whether it would be prudent to play it in a wind-band concert outside.
The concert will last about an hour in the early evening when the temperature should be around 20-25°C (68-77°F). I won't be in direct sunlight and there shouldn't be any wind.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois
Date: 2010-06-19 13:35
Just say no.
The opportunities for misfortune would be too great to chance it, unless you have an instrument which is inexpensive and which you do not care much about. However, if you could get your hands on a plastic top joint which would fit your instrument, the most likely of the misfurtunes -- a crack in the top joint -- would be prevented.
Elizabeth
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-19 14:10
Attachment: New Oboe Care.pdf (710k)
If u have a new oboe care guide like what I have attached, and you have done what they said, at the mild temperatures that u described, it would be ok play the new oboe. The French summers are humid too, so you should be fine.
Post Edited (2010-06-19 14:12)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: cjwright
Date: 2010-06-19 17:17
Unless you had a sleeved instrument or a plastic topjoint, I wouldn't take the risk. One concert, or a $300 crack job. Even with humidity, that would help it flex but wouldn't prevent the fact that hot air inside wants to expand the wood, and the colder breeze outside will contract the wood.
Cooper
Blog, An Oboe In Paradise
Solo Oboe, Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-19 19:08
I'd play it safe and not play a relatively new instrument outdoors. I still won't play my kingwood oboe outdoors and I've had that for over ten years now - I've never been happy on the few occasions I have played it outdoors or in cold venues (churches/cathedrals/large school halls) hence the reason I bought a plastic oboe.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: oboeidaho
Date: 2010-06-19 20:04
I agree with the big boys - don't play outside. Although I must admit I have played my instruments outside - but they are both seasoned older instruments. See if you can borrow a plastic one from a school, or even rent one for a day (!) if you have a local band rental place (all those instruments should be coming back in from rentals now). Good luck!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: johnt
Date: 2010-06-19 21:58
I was very, very lucky. Several years ago, I played in a local community concert band on the California Central Coast (Monterey); we had numerous outdoor gigs: Xmas & Big Sur Marathon. The old Loree (HF vintage 1980) just sang when I played it, albeit flat…everybody was, especially the brass…it was cold. No cracks; knock on wood. I kept my two hands on the top tube the whole time I wasn't playing.
The advice in the above posts is spot on. I truly think what saved me was the age of the wood & the fact that the previous owner (Ted Rust) took beautiful care of the instrument. It still plays great today; I've been able to grow into it.
Best,
john
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-20 10:56
Attachment: Tarnished Ag-Ni.JPG (21k)
For those living in humid and hot regions with little temperature extremes, along the lines of cracking and other problems, please see:
http://nielsen-woodwinds.com/t-41.aspx
I had an unexpected problem with the metal alloy due to sticking in a humidifier in the lower joint of the oboe. The Ag-Ni got tarnished so badly that to repair and scrub it out took a helluva effort at the shop. They used some kind of liquid abrasive, which actually, takes some metal out, so it is a fairly destructive process which is not good for the joint.
I do live in a more or less summer all year round with little temperature extremes. There are different things to deal with.
See the attached pix.
Post Edited (2010-06-20 10:59)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-06-23 00:35
I just played an outside show with a 1930s jarde, already repaired in the top joint from an earlier crack. I am always really careful when it comes to 'environmental' challenges, had a warming sleeve, etc.
The first night, a new small hairline crack developed in the top joint.
@$#!
so I'm with the others: get a plastic oboe (or top joint) or just say no.
GoodWinds
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Koch Fan
Date: 2010-06-23 02:47
I'm not going to comment on whether you should play your oboe outside.
Well....actually, I would not recommend it...though it will most likely survive.
I did want to relate a funny story about the incomparable oboist Lothar Koch of the Berlin Philharmonic. He played Marigaux oboes. He had received a new one, and was unhappy that it felt constricted. He took it outside, in a snow storm, and played it. It cracked. He felt that the release of tension in the wood, from the crack, was exactly what the instrument needed. He loved it after that.....
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-23 07:54
Just as a side....
Do you experience cracks outside (external wood) of the oboe or in the bore of the top joint ?
If there is a crack on the outside, what is the effect when playing ?
If the crack is in the bore, similarly, what are the effects ?
Thx.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-23 11:44
Cracks mostly happen to the outside of the joint as the internal pressure causes it. Depending where the crack happens it can seriously compromise playing if it cracks through toneholes causing a leak (usually between the 8ve vents or trill keys) or if it runs down the side and not through any toneholes, it won't do any harm to playability.
It's best if the crack runs between toneholes as it usually goes no further than the lowest tonehole the crack enters and can then be repaired by filling the crack, pinning and bushing the toneholes. Cracks that run down the sides can either terminate in a pillar hole or run from top to bottom if left unchecked. They can be halted by drilling into the joint at the lowest point of the crack, then the lot can be filled and pinned.
Cracks won't normally start from the bore as the walls of the bore are in compression and that pushes outwards. Some cracks (usually tenon cracks) can enter the bore, but these can be filled easily.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-23 12:47
Chris P:
I have never experienced cracking in the oboes I owned. I have a 40 year old Hans Kreul, the outside seems to be crack free, the bore looked like it has wood grain not cracks and the oboe is somewhat playable but in need of a serious overall. Pads, corks, oiling keys etc. Although, I am not sure about microcracks.
This is what Cooperwright said:
"Do you know if all of the toneholes are perfectly in tact? Many older instruments have microscopic chips out of the toneholes or the wood has shrunk so much that the grains become bigger, and create more chips in the toneholes which require careful "filling" with superglue or something else. If the toneholes are not crisp enough, or rounded, it might be darn near impossible to get the instrument sealing properly without doing some major repair (such as building up the tonehole crown and re-chamferring it, or even inserting plastic or rubber tonehole inserts). "
I think there might be chips, as I kinda can see the grains in the upper joint BORE, didnt use to see it before, I mean, that was decades ago.
I have read the posts that talked about Peter Hurd. So, I wrote to Peter Hurd, since he had good things to say about the Kreul, to ask him if he would take the overhaul job, but have yet to receive a reply.
I dont think I am attempt having the oboe converted to a conservatoire. Thanks for the comments about what I need to do.
Once again, thx for the crack input.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-23 14:10
I had an ex-demo Yamaha 821TP (bought from a Yamaha rep) that cracked from the crown down the right hand side (as you're playing) to the level of the Bb tonehole. This happened in the winter during a rehearsal in a cold rehearsal hall, but Yamaha sent me out a new top joint and all I had to do was transplant the keywork across from the original top joint to the new one.
I sold this oboe around ten years ago and it is still being played by the buyer and the replacement top joint is still fine. I can only assume as it was a demo model, it would have gone through all sorts at exhibitions, so didn't have too good a good start in life.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-06-24 20:23
good story. I've heard the same, that a cracked oboe is not the end of the world. Still, whenever I felt stress or impending doom in my life, I'd dream that my oboe cracked...
GoodWinds
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-24 21:59
I've been close to snapping my oboe in half across my knee several times too - usually when the reed decides not to co-operate at the worst moment possible.
And I'm sure I'm not alone there.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-07-10 22:56
What about used instruments? Can anyone give me a good recommendation for where I can get a good quality (not PERFECT, mind you, but Good) oboe with a plastic top joint? I'd trade my Jarde for that... seeing as how I probably will be playing more outside concerts/shows.
Everyone thinks that southern California is always balmy, but it can get Really Cold at night, especially in the desert areas.
GoodWinds
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: hautbois
Date: 2010-07-12 00:01
You can purchase a plastic top joint separately from Loree, and occasionally a used one will turn up for sale at oboe dealers. I have been able to adjust my extra Loree top joint to accommodate other brands of oboe. I actually sold my last Loree with the plastic top joint on it, and retained the original wooden one, which I then adjusted to fit my Laubin and then my Marigaux. As it was old and had cracked 9and been repaired), I did not worry about using it outdoors.
Elizabeth
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
