 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-17 08:15
I have a 40 year old Hans Kreul that I would like to overhaul and get it playable, but the oboe maker is out of business.
Few or no American oboe repair shop would touch it. The one that will , wants a lot of money for an overhaul.
There are no cracks and the keys are intact and nothing broken. At most, all the corking and pads and springs need to be replaced.
It is a thumb plate system. I hear conversionto conservatoir esystem is possible.
Can anyone offer any inputs ?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-17 11:46
If it's pure thumbplate system (thumplate and side key for Bb and C, and with no linkage from RH1 to the top joint Bb and C keys) then converting it to conservatoire will be expensive as the top joint main action keywork will have to be redesigned.
The LH3 fingerplate will have to be connected to the Bb key, the side key will be removed and a side G# fitted instead (and probably a new linkage piece from the Bb key to the C key), the connecting bar (con bar) will have to be fitted and also a linkage/foot for RH1 fitted.
The Bb and probably the C toneholes will also need enlarging so they're in tune with conservatoire fingerings.
It is possible to do, but at a cost.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: cjwright
Date: 2010-06-17 21:08
Good overhauls typically go at a rate of $1000 to $2000, depending on the repair person.
Do you know if all of the toneholes are perfectly in tact? Many older instruments have microscopic chips out of the toneholes or the wood has shrunk so much that the grains become bigger, and create more chips in the toneholes which require careful "filling" with superglue or something else. If the toneholes are not crisp enough, or rounded, it might be darn near impossible to get the instrument sealing properly without doing some major repair (such as building up the tonehole crown and re-chamferring it, or even inserting plastic or rubber tonehole inserts).
Another issue with instruments that old is that steel does wear out, and sometimes rods/screws/pivot screws/etc. need to be replaced as well (and sometimes made by hand). So basically what I'm saying is there can be issues that are unseen to the average oboist that are seen by the comprehensive oboe specialist, and most will tell you they won't know until they see it.
Having said that, if you're willing to invest the cash, one person that seems to repair all instruments finely is Jason Onks. I've seen his work on Laubins, Lorees, and Gordets among others, and I'm sure he'd take on the job if you're willing to give him carte blanche. Otherwise, you might try this new person. I know nothing about him, but if he apprenticed under Larry Mueller, I would imagine he has good oboe skills, and since he's new to the business, he might be less expensive. He does state he uses skin pads so you'd want to request cork pads instead.
Blog, An Oboe In Paradise
Solo Oboe, Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra
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Author: OboeLover4Life
Date: 2010-07-01 04:23
"He does state he uses skin pads so you'd want to request cork pads instead."
Why would you want to use cork over skin? I would think skin in as many places possible is best.
If music be the food of love, play on. ~William Shakespeare
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-07-01 10:44
Cork pads last much longer than skin pads.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: OboeLover4Life
Date: 2010-07-02 04:06
O really? That's really neat because I remember reading an article somewhere that stated you get a more consistent seal with skin than cork. The reason I think was that skin is a more stable material.
And what do you mean by 20 second seal? Is it a test?
Also, maybe it's a personal thing, I remember reading that the different materials don't really affect the sound.
Hang on I'll post a link in a bit to the article...(if I can find it)
If music be the food of love, play on. ~William Shakespeare
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-07-02 06:33
There was an article, a while back. I believe it was an interview with one of the American makers (Covey?). He stated that the extra flexibility of the skin pads could cope with severe changes in humidity/temperature/altitude far better than cork. Nevertheless, I agree with Chris that cork is far longer lasting and can give excellent seal even a decade later, with careful regulation.
The seal test:
Dampen your finger slightly, hold the top-joint in your left hand, seal the bottom with a finger of your right hand and suck all the air out through the reed well, creating a vacuum. once you have sucked all the air out as hard as you can, seal the reed-well with one of your lips. Count seconds until the vacuum gives way (on a semi-automatic octave system, hold open the 1st octave key. It will click open once the vacuum is gone).
And the materials can, and do affect the sound greatly. An instrument repairer I once knew tried putting o-rings into the cups to see if they sealed better, but the difference in sound was too great.
J.
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Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-07-02 07:23
Another thing about cork....if u live in the humid tropics, mildew is another horrible problem to deal with !
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Author: jyoung4225
Date: 2010-08-05 18:52
Hi everyone,
I am that new person Cooper mentioned. Thanks (Cooper) for the referral by the way...much appreciated!
Anyhow, I just thought I'd stop by to say hello and officially introduce myself.
My name is Justin Young and I'm the owner/operator of my own woodwind repair business. I'm based in San Antonio, Texas.
Started my apprenticeship with Larry Mueller back in July 2009 and worked with him every week for a year until he left town and moved to Kingsport, TN.
It was sad to see him go but he left me with a lot of valuable repair knowledge.
As far as repair is concerned, I'm set up really well to handle flute, clarinet, oboe and bassoon. Cork, skin and leather pads I always have on hand but the more exotic stuff would have to be ordered.
If you guys have any questions, comments or concerns for me...drop me a line and I'll always try to get back to you.
-Justin-
For all your woodwind repair needs:
http://www.justin-young.net
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