 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-02-27 14:58
I'm reviewing the Oboe Adjustment Guide by McFarland. I can't locate adjustment screw #12.
Does the RIEC have one, & if so where is it? If not, what's supposed to be done with this step?
I'm not making adjustments, just checking adjustments.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-02-27 21:10
I don't have the McFarland guide, but you can download the Seaton adjustment guide and tell us which number screw you are referring to?
http://www.oboehouse.com/images/OboeAdjustmentGuidebySeaton.pdf
Seaton's adjustment guide only describes 11 screws, and his illustrations are of a full, professional instrument. The RIEC is Rigoutat's student model (RIgoutat ECole), which has a simplified mechanism though I'm not sure exactly what it is missing (at a guess, the split E and forked-F resonance? let us know).
In general, though, Seaton's instructions for adjusting the screws is sound [groan]. The screws all adjust the keys that you don't press directly. Use cigarette paper to check that you have not over-adjusted, and then play-test, feeling for vibrations in these keys to check they are not under-adjusted. Use extremely light touch throughout.
Hope this helps,
J.
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-02-27 22:56
I think it's top joint screw #1 in Seaton's instructions. I only see 3 screws on the RIEC where Seaton's instructions show 4 screws.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-02-27 23:22
If there's no adjustment on that linkage (screw #1 in the diagram), then you have to rely on the thickness of the cork on the RH1 key foot/linkage, the RH1 pad thickness and travel (venting) and also bending the long linkage bar (the 'con bar' - short for 'conservatoire bar as only conservatoire systems have this) to get the clearance right.
There has to be some play (only a small amount) between RH1 and the underside of the lower end of the con bar, then when you close RH1 there has to be clearance at the top end of the con bar between the surface of the top joint and also the linkage from the Bb key. The adjusting screw on the linkage from the Bb key allows fine adjustment to get the amount of double action right so RH1 can fully close and also the Bb key on the top joint doesnt remain held open.
It's one of those adjustments you have to go around to make sure the clearances are all fine - you can have as much clearance between the top joint surface and the underside of the upper end of the con bar when RH1 is closed. On dual systems there has to be some cork on the underside of the upper end of the con bar, but there still needs to be some clearance to be sure RH1 can close.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-02-27 23:31
Thanks for the detailed explanation Chris. I'll leave adjustment to the technician - too complicated for me.
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Author: mschmidt
Date: 2010-02-28 03:34
Thanks, Bill, for reminding me about this screw! In the Sawicki guide, it's way in the back in the "miscellaneous" category and I never had to adjust it on my old Marigaux. But the rental Bulgheroni needed some adjustment there and it's improved things a bit.
Mike
Still an Amateur, but not really middle-aged anymore
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-03-05 21:54
I got two Loree oboes for trial, a regular & a Royal, from hannasoboes.com & it's nice to see that they have this adjustment screw.
Post Edited (2010-03-05 22:14)
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