 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: wjk
Date: 2003-01-04 19:01
How best to clean tarnished keys? I hate the idea of using chemicals. Would a polishing cloth and "elbow grease" work?
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Author: ron b
Date: 2003-01-04 21:45
Polishing cloths work great for me, WJK. My friends tell me that polishing cloths work great for them too Many folks I know just use a plain ol' piece of flannel cloth - wipe the keys before putting the horn to bed.
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Author: Mark Pinner
Date: 2003-01-04 22:28
A silver cloth works but will not necessarily remove everything from nickel plating. UMI make a very good metal instrument cloth which has a silver cloth sewn inside a milder polishing cloth and they last for ages. This is not an advertisement just a suggestion!
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Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2003-01-05 02:24
Some of the more stubborn tarnish will respond to a VERY little Flitz metal polish on a Q-tip swab.
Take care not to apply any liquid or paste polishes to the linkages... it can make for a sluggish or slow key.
Even the inexpensive polishing cloths available at your tableware supply or local WalMart should do.
I would avoid anything with even mild abrasives.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-05 03:04
(In my experience Flitz contains a very harsh abrasive. Most polishing cloths contain abrasive of some sort)
It all depends on the nature of the tarnish, i.e. what tarnishing atmospheres the surface has been exposed to.
Some silver tarnish comes off very easily with a good silver cloth. Stick to top brand names (not instrument names) of cloth to avoid cloths that contain poorly screened particle size of the abrasive. These low quality cloths 'scratch'.
Some silver tarnish is almost impossible to remove with a cloth. Severe buffing may completely remove plating from the ridges of keys. I'm not sure whether the chemical treatments restore the tarnish to silver, or actually remove the tarnish, which is chemical abrasion, as damaging as sever buffing. It probably depends on the chemical treatment.
Any product suitable for silver will probably not touch corrosion on nickel plating. Nickel corrosion is normally very difficult to remove.
In any case, do not allow any liquid, paste, or powder polish to get into the pivots, where it can rust the pivot steel and/or cause greatly accelerated wear.
From my observations, powder residue left on surfaces tends to promote corosion.
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Author: Clarence
Date: 2003-01-05 17:46
I your clarinet keys are nichel, you can go to the AutoZone auto parts store and get a mag wheel cleaner called 'Mothers'. It comes in a paste for about 5 dollars. This works great and has no abrasives. DO NOT PUT THIS STUFF ON FLUTES. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
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Author: lynn
Date: 2003-01-05 21:34
And after you polish it, get those papers that 3M makes to prevent the tarnish from coming back! They work great -
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-06 07:19
Clarence what does it do when it meets the steel or stainless steel pivots? What does it do to timber? What is it!! If it is not abrasive then it is a very strong chemical.
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Author: Clarence
Date: 2003-01-06 13:11
Gordon,
I always remove the key first. If anyone has doubt, try it on the underneath side first. It does not remove metal and is chemical action only. Use a paper towel or cloth with rubbing action to remove the contaminates(sp) on the key. It will make a key look new again.
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Author: Bob
Date: 2003-01-06 14:11
It really depends on what the metal is that is tarnished. Sometimes Formby's lemon oil removes tarnish, don't ask me why. I find nickel-silver virtually impossible to "take a shine" and so don't try anymore. Why remove silver tarnish?
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-07 03:00
SOME types of silver tarnish 'eat' right through silver plating.
Not all silver tarnish is the same.
It is also common to see severe localized pitting beneath the key felts of sterling silver professional flutes. Presumably this is the 'tarnishing' action of the sulphur which is in wool felt. I've never seen it where cork is used instead of felt.
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2003-01-07 04:11
Quote without comment from:
<www.flitz.com>
"Our patented scientific formulation uses No abrasives, No ammonia, is nontoxic, free of Acid, and requires no warning label. It is also nonflammable and can be used on heated surfaces. You can even use Flitz with your bare hands. It is safe on your skin, no gloves are required."
According to the company it can be used on musical instruments and, among other things removes bird droppings and graffiti (something for you marching band members to keep in mind during guano season).
I use it (but only with the keys off) and it doesn't seem particularly abrasive to me but I am no expert.
Best regards,
jn
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2003-01-07 04:14
Oops. Forgot the "http://" again. (Also included a comment in spite of myself and left off one of my initials. It's past my bedtime!) Here is the link:
http://www.flitz.com
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-07 12:00
be careful when recommending Flitze. There is quite a range of Flitz products. One that I used that climed to do all metals was
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-07 12:14
be careful when recommending Flitze. There is quite a range of Flitz products. One that I used that claimed to do all metals was VERY abrasive. You need to specify which product.
To test for abrasive, put a minute amount between your front teeth and move your teeth against eachother. Is there any gritiness?
I am mighty suspicious of ANY produst which claims to do almost anything. Certainly anything that makes claims for materials as diverse as these should be treated with GREAT suspicion.
"FLITZ METAL POLISH FIBERGLASS & PAINT RESTORER: Flitz Metal Polish Fiberglass & Paint Restorer available in a paste or liquid form. Contains no ammonia or abrasives. Safely cleans, Polishes & Protects: Brass, Copper, Silverplate, Sterling, Chrome, Stainless Steel, Nickel, Bronze, Gold, Aluminum, Anodized Aluminum, Pewter, Factory Gun Bluing, Bore cleaning, Painted Surfaces. Removes: Tarnish, Rust, Water Stains, Oxidation, Fingerprints."
I note that this says "available in a paste or liquid form.", yet their own MSDS sheet says "25% ammonia solution" for the "Flitz metal polish paste." There seems to be confusion or perhaps deliberate deception here.
Also, I am not impressed by a web site that attempts to access my computer at least twice when I enter it.
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Author: Clarence
Date: 2003-01-07 12:58
Jack and Gordon,
I had called Leblanc on an earlier date and they recommended Flitz. I couldn't find it and havn't tried it.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-07 23:48
If a manufacturer uses a cork adhesive that has the approximate sticking power of cheese, for decades, and markets a very low grade of cork grease, can you trust their 'recommendation'?
Did they specify WHICH Flitz product, and precisely which surfaces did they recommend it for?
Did they provide any cautions about not getting it in the mechanism, where it is most likely to do more harm than good?
Hmmm!
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2003-01-07 23:52
And just another thought....
Did you speak to the office girl or their consultant expert on the interaction between chemicals and the various surfaces used on a clarinet?
Hmmm - again.
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Author: Clarence
Date: 2003-01-08 01:16
Gordon,
I talked to a male in the parts department. I didn't spend much time looking for the Flitz product and don't plan on trying it.
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