 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: Karel
Date: 2002-12-31 01:51
I would appreciate some basic advice on repadding please. Because I live some 400km from my nearest repair tech, and since I have a Czech made plastic Bb horn as a backup to my R-13, I thought it might be a useful skill to learn (on the plastic horn). I bought Frank Lawrence's repair manual, and am thinking of using Ed Myer's synthetic pads to start with; but the manual leaves me floundering about how to proceed in the practical sense.
If I remove the key and seat the pad, what is the simplest way of reheating the glue (?shellac) for adjusting the seal when the key is replaced? I have no "resistor heater". Can I heat the key with a flame a little distance away from the cup and rely on conduction to melt the glue in the cup?
What adhesive would you recommend to a beginner?
What brand of pads other than the synthetic would you advise, since cost of materials is such a small part of professional service?
Any practical tips would be appreciated.
PS: I am quite nimble with my hands, so clumsiness is not a problem.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Wes
Date: 2002-12-31 07:36
A small alcohol lamp works well, using denatured alcohol as the fuel. I like the Ferree's clarinet pads, B17 double skin for many clarinets and medium thin B25 double skin for where a thinner pad is needed. The brown shellac is still my choice. Good luck! Make a pad shifter out of a 1/2 X 2 inch piece of metal so that they can be adjusted easily while still hot. Feelers can be made by cutting strips from cigarette paper. Good luck.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Kim
Date: 2002-12-31 14:55
You are hesitant. If you think it is worth the travel time, take the horn to the mechanic. If not, repad it yourself.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ron b
Date: 2002-12-31 19:44
Hi, Karel
I can think of nothing handier to begin with than a good leak light.
Alcohol lamps were in use long before resistance devices were even considered - if my memory serves me correctly. I was raised in a California Central Valley town, about as close a comparison to any 'Hicksville' you can imagine, so consider the source. I didn't even know about the resistance method until about five years ago. Nevertheless, conduction heat is still the preferred way to do it by many techs. Heat the adhesive very hot to first set the pad in its cup. When its cooled and back on the instrument, hold the padded key near the flame, keeping it far enough away that just enough heat transfers to soften the 'glue'. Different shellacs, brown(amber), clear, white(French cememt) [and glue gun stuff] etc. have different melting temperatures and characteristics. Some stay softer longer, some will burn sooner than others. Lots of fun to experiment with. It would be nice if you could try different kinds to determine which suits you best - everyone I know has a preference. There is no 'correct' one.
I bought my alcohol lamp, glass - adjustable wick, from a local jewelry supply for about $7.00(U.S.) five years ago. Allied has the same kind for about the same money and Ferree's sells a very nice metal one for about twenty (USD). Be sure to use Denatured Alcohol, available where paint is sold. Rubbing alcohol is mostly water and will only burn for a very short time ('til the fuel burns off).
I use resistance heat mostly but there are times when open flame heat is the only way to go. Open flame is ideal, in my experience, to initially set the pad in its cup. As I already mentioned, some techs will not use anything else. Resistance will burn tiny holes where it contacts some plating, especially flutes. Never, ever use resistance to heat flutes :|
Best wishes for a great New Year
- ron b -
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Karel
Date: 2003-01-01 02:30
Thanks ron b and Wes, for clarifying the use of the alcohol lamp and the glues. I will order several different adhesives and play around with them. Kim, I am hesitant to start doing something until I know what I am doing - the reason for my questions. Thanks for your input anyway.
- Karel -
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
