 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Hank
Date: 2002-12-14 02:35
Hi,
I searched past files on the BB but found little about replacing the lining on older cases. I have a terrific older R-13 case that has many wear spots where the wooden sub-frame is showing.
I'd like to give the replacement job a try thinking that I'd:
1. Get some nice velvet or similar fabric at the store.
2. Carefully remove the old lining so I'd have a good pattern
3. Glue in the replacement lining using contact cement (I have heard that the glue gun might be too quick drying and not as long lasting as needed.
Has anyone actually tried this? Were the results worth the effort?
Or, is there a firm that does this?
Thanks
Hank
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Author: Bob Arney
Date: 2002-12-14 04:06
Hank, it might pay you to do a "search" on this topic. I believe others have asked about this and the problem (or one of them) lies in the type of contgact cement or adhesive that is used. Bob A
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Author: Hank
Date: 2002-12-14 10:57
Bob A,
A search yielded very little in this case. I'll try some other combinations of glue, case, and lining.
Thanks.
Hank
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Author: Synonymous Botch
Date: 2002-12-14 13:35
I use fabric with a soft nap - held in with 3M spray 77 glue.
The difficulty is in getting the edges snug. Upholstery shops have adhesives built for this sort of thing, and may be genuinely helpful in getting you started.
I like the materials with a little nap to them, these can be trimmed with a scissors for neatness.
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Author: saxlite
Date: 2002-12-14 14:05
Contact cement (rubber cement) should work as long as you don't let it dry before applying....have lots of old newspaper to wad up to fill the cavities ready, then coat the bare wood (only) with the contact cement. Then quickly lay in the velvet starting at one end, progressively filling with the wads to force conformance to the shape of the cavities. Trim off the excess aroung the edges later. The contact cement will dry slowly enough to allow you to manuever the velvet as you go. Then let it sit with the cover closed for 12 hours--then you can trim the edges and glue them if necessary.
Good luck!
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Author: saxlite
Date: 2002-12-14 14:14
An additonal thought-better to start from the center of the case and work out towards the edges--use a piece of velvet that is considerably larger than the case, trim edges as above. This should avoid getting "caught short".....be sure to pack the cavities tightly before moving to the next row.....
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Author: Hank
Date: 2002-12-14 14:28
Very cool ideas. The idea of stuffing the cavities with newspaper had never occurred to me and I think contact cement will be perfect.
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Author: Terry Horlick
Date: 2002-12-14 16:46
Starting from scratch on a case I have used open cell foam to make the concavities for the horn joints and then just stuffed the velvet into the concavities. Lastly putting it into the case with the edges all tucked under. This works great and the foam holds it firmly in place. If you make a mistake just pull it out and do it over. No cement solvents are used at all this way and the foam seems not to outgas at all.
I would consider removing the wood framework and trying the foam trick. The foam will only cost a few dollars, if you don't like the results you can still pull out the velvet and try gluing it onto the wooden frame.
Another plus was that when I got another barrel it only took a few minutes to carve out a new hole and re-pack the velvet to accomodate it.
I will be doing the interior for a new case in two weeks for my "new" clarinets and I will post some before, durring, and after pictures for you crafty do-it-yourself types.
<a href="http://pages.sbcglobal.net/thorlick/case/index.htm">Click here to see my case lining method.</a>
<I><font size=+1)Terry</font></i>
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Author: jim lande
Date: 2002-12-14 17:48
I have done pretty much the same thing, but using relatively good quality foam rubber cut so that the entire block fits inside the case. (the block can be built with several pieces of foam held together with upholsterer's spray glue.) Then, I just lay the velvet on top, do a little tucking and folding (and sometimes tape it to the buttom of the block. The whole block squeeze a little to get into the case. I find that very high quality velvet makes up for a certain sloppyness of construction.
In years past Cindy (?) posted her experience taking out an old lining, using it for a pattern, and then glueing it back into the case. She had great results.
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2002-12-15 00:36
Be careful with materials. Fumes from case materials can cause severe metal corrosion:
Polyurethane (including foam?) varnish fumes can turn nickel plating a dull, rough, off-white overnight. Very difficult to remove. There seems to be quite a range of materials that do this to nickel, and knowledge in this area seem sto be scant.
Any material containing sulphur (including rubber, and felt made from wool) can turn silver plating black or seriously pit it.
There have been a variety of incidences when instruments have been damaged by the cases that the instrument makers have chosen to use.
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Author: Bob
Date: 2002-12-15 13:10
I have relined a few cases. I use velvet that my wife gets at a fabric shop. Removing the old lining can be a time-consuming job as I try to do it carefully. My experience is forget about using the old lining as a pattern as it usually won't come out satisfactorily. I have used the pre-existing wood on cardboard form and also high density foam. I like Terry's idea of not using any adhesive at all. I have used bubble-wrap under the top velvet but don't like it. I use acrylic paint on the exterior with or without acrylic transparent finish....Or polyurethane. Have fun.
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Author: ken
Date: 2002-12-15 14:42
Terry, is that briefcase a genuine Anvil or Calzone brand? They're pretty heavy to lug around and not cheap. Efficient and creative process, would be nice though to see the design/materials used on the cut-outs and how they're secured to the inside bottom. v/r Ken
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Author: Terry Horlick
Date: 2002-12-15 22:16
Ken,
Sorry I didn't document the whole thing for you from foam blank. It is "way simple". I threw it tsogether in an afternoon and it has worked well for years. I needed a double case and so made one up when the only ones I could find were $150-$300.
I saw the aluminum case in a Harbor Freight sale flier. It was available in two sizes, I got the one which measured appropriately for the load I was going to put inside. This one is thin aluminum with foam inside. With the horns on board it is still very light. If you have access to an old aluminum camera case it would be absolutely perfect. I put the <a href="http://pages.sbcglobal.net/thorlick/case/case4s.JPG" target="_blank">rainbow</a> strap onto the case to be sure the cheap latches wouldn't open and cause a problem... it never has happened, but why tempt fate? The strap holds a music folder anyway.
Buy the foam cut or just cut it to the size to firmly fit inside (maybe 1/4" compression). If you want to contour fit the pieces then maybe use two thin foam pieces... one thick one works fine however. I did hack a little out of the grey foam which came in the case for each bell as the white foam wasn't thick enough for them. You tuck it all in and that compression keeps it all in place firmly... no glue needed.
You can put the foam onto some cardboard, but that would require glue and really isn't necessary. I have never had any of it pull out accidently, only when I wanted to pull it. It is firm in there even when both clarinets are out of there.
I just got an A clarinet (which was masterfully overhauled by John Butler... I recommend him highly...) so the case you saw in the photos is going (with those clarinets) to college with my daughter. You guessed it, I need a case for my "new" instruments. I like one handing it so the new case will be a violin case with room in the cover for music and maybe a folding stand, inside there will be loads of room for nick nacks. There will be a separate compartment for wet swabs (I really despise having to put a swab in there in contact with a horn I have just dried and having all that moisture touching wood) and one for accessories, perhaps a separate humidor box for reeds. I have purchased a cigar humidor hygrometer (about $8 with shipping) so I can keep the case close to the 45% relative humidity that Mr. Butler suggests.
If folks want I will take photos of the case conversion process for y'all. It has to be a long case as my horns are one-piece full Boehms and no one makes a case to fit them. I envision showing up to rehearsals with what looks like a violin and hearing all the skinny on what the strings think of the winds. Then opening that violin case and watching the red faces as I pull out my axes!
<a href="http://pages.sbcglobal.net/thorlick/images/2fbs.jpg" target="_blank">Click here to see two clarinets needing a new case.</a>
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Author: ken
Date: 2002-12-15 22:45
Terry, absolute genuis! Thanks for the details.
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Author: Hank
Date: 2002-12-15 22:47
Hi,
The ideas get better and better. Great stuff, thanks.
I have seen some pretty sturdy aluminum tool cases at hoem supply stores (can't remember exactly where) and they were not too expensive and seemed very sturdy. I guess when you consider that you might have a ball peen hammer or a sledge or two inside plus assorted screwdrivers and pliers, these would do the job.
The strap is a fine idea; the latches on the tool cases were pretty simple and did not inspire much confidence.
Hank
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Author: dennis
Date: 2002-12-16 00:00
hank........you may want to consider the case made by PLANO. It's sturdy alum, superior latches (locking), has all the foam you will need (3 individual layers). PLANO makes gun cases and this one is for 2-3 handguns. It has ample room for 2 clarinets. It's about 4" thick and about the size of a briefcase.
You might try looking up PLANO's web site
Oh, the retail price is $50.
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Author: Hank
Date: 2002-12-16 02:57
Hi,
I could not find the Plano site but check this out:
http://www.caseclub.com/
There are more cases that one could ask for and the configurations are almost endless. Use some of the form ideas above and you are set!
Hank
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