 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Meaghan
Date: 2002-10-23 00:38
I am a high school senior, and I have noticed that within the last month I have had a lot of trouble reaching the upper octaves on my clarinet.
I have a Selmer Centered Tone, dated around 1950, I think. I have been playing for seven years now, and I've never had this problem before!
When I try to hit third octave C and above, it won't play and all I hear is air escaping. I have to really tighten my mouth, put more mouthpiece in my mouth and REALLY blow, to get the note out. This makes it difficult to play in band class. It could possibly be me, old age you know , but I also think my clarinet may have a leak.
I would be grateful for any help!
--Meaghan
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Author: Brenda
Date: 2002-10-23 01:16
Yes, you're probably right about a leak. When was the last time a reputable repair person took a look at it? It needs an overhaul every couple of years or so, or at the very least a replacement of pads or repositioning of keys.
A clarinet should be quite easy to play. It shouldn't be frustrating to get notes out of it. My vote is that this is a mechanical problem.
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Author: Meaghan
Date: 2002-10-23 01:25
I had it recorked about a year ago, and the man totally ruined it. Sadly, there aren't many reputable people near me! The best is "American music" which takes forever and doesn't do the job correctly.
I would love to get it up and running, it's a family heirloom, and I want to keep it in good condition. The only thing I can think of is sending it into Selmer to get it repaired and stuff, but then I'm without a clarinet for two weeks or however long it takes.
Also, what size reed do you recommend?
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Author: msroboto
Date: 2002-10-23 02:17
You might try Brannen. Brannen is a sponsor of this site and you can find info on them at http://www.brannenwoodwinds.com
I don't know if they will work on this particular instrument but they might.
Brannen is a mail order option unless you live in or near Chicago. They are well respected and do excellent work. If you make an appointment with them they will tell you what day to ship and which carrier they want it shipped with.
You should only be without it for less than a week which I think is pretty good for a repair shop.
They are expensive but you will have a properly overhauled clarinet that should last a good long while.
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Author: jbutler
Date: 2002-10-23 02:19
Sounds like a leak on one of the side trill keys, or perhaps the G#/Ab key adjustment screw is not set correctly. Check to make sure there is a little, very little, amount of free play before the A key picks up the G#/Ab key. My next thought would be to check to make sure the top to trill (side) keys are not leaking air. A minute leak there will allow the lower notes to sound, but cancel the upper harmonic (node) so that the altissimo notes will not play. I agree that you need to have the clarinet serviced. BTW I was told that Selmer no longer performs service work at the factory. You may confirm with Selmer directly on this, but it was reported on the repair bullentin board they send or "farm out" the work to one of the independent shops in the area.
jbutler
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Author: Meaghan
Date: 2002-10-23 02:39
Gah! My luck, right? Silly selmer.
Mmm... expensive. Hm. The college I'm attending next year doesn't have a band program, so my clarinet will probably stay at home, or in my dorm closet. I don't know if it makes sense to shell out a lot of money to repair it, when I probably won't use it for a long time.
I wonder if there's a cheaper alternative that will repair it, but not perfectly, so I don't waste the money, so to speak?
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Author: Jim E.
Date: 2002-10-23 03:54
Check the board sponsors page for several repair facilities including John Butler's. (His rates are posted on his site, others may be as well, or a phone call or email should get you the information.)
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Author: Jack Kissinger
Date: 2002-10-23 15:22
Meaghan,
The fact that the problem is starting with C rather than D is somewhat puzzling to me because C is about as open as you can get and it seems to me that a problem that would affect C should affect notes below it -- unless closing the top tone hole and depressing its ring with your first finger temporarily masks the problem. Take a look at the linkage between the ring on your thumb key and the top ring key on your upper joint. Usually there is a small cork where the levers come together. If that cork is missing (or your thumb ring has been bent), the small pad "hiding" under your A throat key may not be closing completely when only the thumb ring is depressed. Also check that key to see if the pad has come loose in its cup.
I will try to simulate the problem when I get home and have an instrument in hand. In the meantime, for a quick test to see if the pads are normally sealing, take each joint by itself and close all the tone holes with the normal playing hand. For the lower joint, you will also need to depress the right hand E/B pinky lever. Cover the bottom opening with your other hand, then try to suck air through the upper end of the joint. If everything is aligned properly and sealing tightly you should create a vacuum that continues for at least several seconds after you stop sucking. Next, with the joint still closed, try blowing (no too hard) into the upper end (sealing the end with your mouth). You should feel strong resistance. If the instrument fails the "suck" test, a pad is probably not sealing properly. If it passes the "suck" test but fails the "blow" test, then the problem may also be a pad that isn't sealing or a weak spring that is allowing a pad to open slightly in response to the back pressure created when all the tone holes are closed.
The "suck" and "blow" tests will not disclose the problem I described in my first paragraph, however, because they require that you depress the index finger on your left hand when you test the upper joint. Aside from inspecting visually to see if the linkage is working properly, another way to test for the problem I have described would be to try playing D and up by "half-holing" with the left-hand index finger (or playing the notes as usual but depressing the ring only on the left-hand index key.) If they play fine when you add the index finger ring, the problem is likely the key cork or a bent thumb ring.
I hope Gordon is currently following the board or Peter Spriggs. If anyone might have an idea about what is causing the problem, they probably would. I doubt it will require a complete overhaul and, in fact, it may not be an expensive problem to fix. (If the key cork is the problem, it should be a very cheap fix.) But it will take someone who can diagnose it correctly.
Best regards,
jnk
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2002-10-23 16:11
I like your analysis, Jack. That is what I would look at first.
Another possibility, clutching at straws:
Take a look at the top ring key (the one associated with the pad 'hidden' under the 'A' key) and its arm that is operated by the thumb ring key - the arm that Jack referred to. Close this top ring key. Sometimes this arm touches and slightly lifts one of the top two side keys, usually because one of these side keys has been bent down while grabbing the instrument during assembly. It may do this in a slighlty hidded place. Place a sliver of cellophane or cig paper under the side keys' bridges to see if it is 'grabbed' by the arm when the top ring key is depressed.
Now check again while pressing the thumb key instead of the top ring key.
Normally, if this were the problem, the leak would be created by either pressing down the top ring key, OR by pressing the thumb ring key. However your instrument is old, in which case it is possible the top ring key's pivot could be quite worn (or made sloppy by a misguided technician). If this was the case, then closing the THUMB ring key would tend to lift the arm higher than when one closed the top ring key.
An alternative possibility is that the thumb ring key is binding against the tone hole insert (before it has finished closing the top ring key)
Also, check that the posts in this area are secure in the timber. It is possible that pressing the thumb ring key could LIFT a loose post - the upper post of the top ring key.
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Author: Micaela
Date: 2002-10-25 02:07
Where are you? If you're referring to the American Music in Syracuse (though I know there's one in Rochester too) I know some of the repair guys there and can recommend who you should have work on your clarinet.
There've got to be lots of "American Musics". My "it's a small world after all" thinking makes me think it's possibly the same one; maybe I'm totally wrong.
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Author: Meaghan
Date: 2002-10-25 04:06
American music in Florida, not NY : )
Thanks for all the suggestions. I did find some air leaks in it. I'm sending it off the be repaired this monday.
Thanks all!!!
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