 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Ilkka
Date: 2002-09-16 05:27
Should I oil the bore of my new wooden clarinet? Should i use bore oil (from musicstore) of is there an alternative?
As the corks are very tight, I grease them every time I put together. Could I use clean vaceline (from drugstore) for it is softer and easier to use?
I have searched this board as well other sources I could imagine, but couldnt find exact answer. Yamaha manual says oil occasionally, but tells not if to oil as new. What says Buffet book or some else? I'd appreciate short comment.
Have a good reed, wishes Ilkka.
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Author: Jim E.
Date: 2002-09-16 05:58
Buffet says "not necessary." (Short enought?) There are tons of material on this in the archives, but as you found, there IS no exact answer!
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2002-09-16 11:20
Always abide by the manufacturer's stated use and care recommendations for new insttruments. I have not analyzed the exact makeup of Yamaha oil used on-in their clarinets but extraction of oil from scavenged wood indicates that it is a plant derived oil similar to that used by other major manufacturers of wooden clarinets. The Yamaha site shows a person applying oil to the wood by hand in a later stage of manufacturing - not the initial impregnation step which all manufacturers use. The aftermarket bore oil sold by the major manufacturers, including Yamaha, is light mineral oil - not what they use in manufacturing the horns in the beginning.
I have never received a direct answer from any of the manufacturers as to why they sell mineral oil in the aftermarket. My own research indicates to me that mineral oil is not good for the wood and a plant derived oil formulation similar to that used in manufacture of the clarinet should be used. No where, that I have found, in the wood literature (other than to attain a cosmetic shine) is mineral oil used to perserve and nourish wood.
Yes, many players have opinions on oiling, or not oiling wood and what oil to use. I would be happy to listen to any science based information and experiments where mineral oil was used to preserve and add to the longevity, water balance characteristics, resonance characteristics, or other positive aspects of wood treatment. I have in the past enumerated and described my own experiments on the use of plant derived oil formulations for wood. Do as you will, but question the rationale and evidence that mineral oil is a substance that you want to put on your clarinet.
The Doctor
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2002-09-16 16:19
Ilkka: Dr. Henderson is perhaps the wisest person on Earth when it comes to oils and greases to be used on Clarinets. He declines to offer recommendations to use his own products, as Mr. Charette does not permit anyone to "self-promote" on the Bulletin Board. It's a good plan, because otherwise we would be drowning in advertisements.
However, I can and will offer up a suggestion that you likely could do no better than his products. Oil, cork grease, and even key oil. Now for my list of things to avoid:
1. Avoid going against recommendations of your Clarinet's builder. You would do so at the risk of voiding your warranty. If that does not matter to you, do what makes sense to you.
2. Do not use mineral oil for a Clarinet bore. In the past, I used Olive oil without ill effect, but I now use Dr. Henderson's oil. The Doctor's Products bore oil is an organic oil which has antioxodants (and other additives) so that the oil will not become rancid. (Should that happen, your Clarinet would smell very bad.) Do note that most bore oil sold by Clarinet makers is mineral oil. Why they do that is something I cannot understand. As Dr. Henderson notes, the manufacturers do not use mineral oil on Clarinet wood in their own factories.
3. Vaseline may be fine for many uses, but it is not suitable for corks. It is a petroleum-based product, as is mineral oil. Wood can be damaged by using it, and corks are made of wood. Dr. Henderson sells a cork grease which is the least likely to cause cork damage.
4. I would not oil a Clarinet until it is becoming dry. As moisture leaves the Clarinet (due to keeping the instrument in conditions of low humidity), it becomes more likely to crack. Replace the lost water with water (by using a humidifier), and the instrument will continue to expand and contract with changes in humidity, and this is not good. Replace that water with non-volatile oil, and the instrument will be restored to proper condition and tend to remain in proper condition, as the oil will not evaporate. If more moisture evaporates from the wood, oil it again. When to oil? You can tell if the instrument is shrinking due to loss of moisture if the tenon socket rings or the ring at the bottom of the bell start to become loose. If any of these is the tiniest bit loose, it's a good time to apply some oil. And use proper oil. The Doctor's Products can sell you the best stuff for this purpose. And do avoid getting oil on the pads. This admonition number four is my suggestion only and is not universally acknowledged as the right thing to do. Read what everyone has to say, then make up your own mind.
5. Although you didn't ask about this, I suggest key axles not be oiled without cleaning them first. The black glop that comes off when you clean them is old oil which has accumulated a lot of dust. Too much dust will cause wear. Remove the key, clean thoroughly, then re-oil with a *tiny* amount of proper oil. If you are concerned in the slightest about your lack of experience in removing and replacing keys, do *not* do this yourself. Trust this work instead to a good technician. This is because if you make a mistake, the Clarinet may require adjustment beyond your ability. Fortunately, the re-oiling process usually is not required for a very long time (many years) unless you play in a very dusty environment.
The Doctor's Products is a Sponsor of this Bulletin Board. I suggest that anyone consider the use of these products because I believe them to be very good materials, not because I have any financial interest in their sale, which I definitely do not. I pay full price for my stuff, the same as everyone else. You can get contact information on any sponsor by clicking on the "Sponsored By" area at the top of this page.
Regards,
John
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Author: JMcAulay
Date: 2002-09-16 16:24
In my item 2, I used the term "organic oil." I should have written "plant oil," as chemically speaking, mineral oil is an organic material. Sorry about that.
Regards,
John
former chemistry teacher
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Author: Bob
Date: 2002-09-17 13:50
JMc's comments are about as sound advice as you'll get anywhere. My personal opinion as to why most bore oil is mineral oil is that it won't turn rancid in storage....and, it's cheaper.
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Author: L. Omar Henderson
Date: 2002-09-18 02:43
Plant derived oil mixtures with the proper types of antioxicants have been stable now for 8 years at room temperature in my quality control samples taken from every lot. FYI - light mineral oil in the tanker truck quantities now costs between $1.00-$1.36 per pound (16 oz. - 480 mL) - quality plant derived oils cost $4.50-$45.00 per pound. Specialized plant derived antioxidants (think of the powerful nature of these antioxidants necessary in plants that generate free oxygen radicals during photosynthesis) are very, very expensive - Vitamin E is only a great antioxidant in animal systems but only mediocre in plant systems.
The Doctor
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Author: TDC
Date: 2002-09-21 21:43
One of the things that damages wooden clarinets is repeated change in the moisture content of the wood. It swells the wood, allows it to shrink again when drier, and leads to stress fractures (cracking).
Everyone has noticed that clarinet joints are tighter in the summertime than in winter when the air is less humid. The wood swells up in summer.
That in mind, what's the answer? follow the mfg's suggestions? --some say oil monthly, others, oil twice a year. Follow instructions on the oil bottle? ("Oil the bore lightly every WEEK!!) Drives you mad.
Whatever method you adopt, I suggest that you use regular cork grease on the cork joints--I've found that hard waxy ones (Van Doren, Micro) are better than the greasy soft ones. And here's a secret. when you grease the corks rub a little into the end-grain. That's where moisture can penetrate easiest. It's also coincidentally where moisture accumulates when you play, at the joints.
As a matter of fact, when lumber companies are seasoning valuable woods like mahogany, walnut, rosewoods, etc, they paint the ends of the log or flitch with a tarry paint for that very reason--to control the transfer of moisture.
Think I'll go down to the music room and oil my bore.
Tom DC
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2002-09-22 13:21
TDC, it seems you have not tried Doctors Products cork greases, otherwise you would leave all the rest alone (except maybe Alisyn which is similar).
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Author: Denny G
Date: 2002-09-26 03:18
What about a Buffet R13 Greenline? Should it be oiled (the bore)?
Someone on this BB once said that plastic clarinets are the only ones not needing bore oil...That even metal clarinets may need bore oil. This I don't understand.
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