 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-14 22:59
Probably alot of us on the bb have one or more clarinets around the house in need of a repad. Problem is . . . the clarinet is probably not worth the cost of a professional repad (even arguably after the work is done!)
I was wondering if there was consensus on what type (material) of pads would be the easiest for a novice (with decent equipment from Ferees) to install successfully. I've heard that leather pads are more forgiving than some. There was also a thread a while back on Valentino pads which seemed to indicate that they sealed well if you could get them set right. Comments on adhesives would also be appreciated.
There's a Bundy, a Vito, a sad-looking Silva Bet, and a metal Albert all wondering when they will play again. I'm hoping to give them an answer soon. As you can see, these are not pro horns, so ease of application and longevity will probably win out over purist "slightly better" options. Any thoughts?
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Author: joevacc
Date: 2002-07-15 02:14
Fred,
I have had good luck with the double skin pads from Ferree's. Also Prestini leather pads were recommended to me by a BB member and I like them very much on my metal horn.
Good Luck,
-=[Joe Vacc]=-
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-15 04:22
Hi, Fred
Your lineup sounds like first cousins of my menagerie On all the horns I have that are kin to yours, I've repadded them all with Ferree's double skin medium pads, except for register key - always cork. I like French cement (white) because I'm used to it. Some folks prefer stick shellac (brown or clear). Both work well, though some say the shellac is more durable (and, it follows -- They're used to IT A matter of preference, in my opinion. I have a good relationship with a tech who has helped me immeasureably. I recommend to Everyone just starting out, if at all possible, get some hands-on instruction. Offer to pay for the 'lessons', of course. It'll save you hours and hours of frustration. Even if you think you doin' pretty good on your own, instruction will help you be more consistently correct... fewer spoiled materials
I've never tried Prestinis but I trust Joe V. and many others who like them very much.
The second part of your first statement (a lousy job) is the exact reason I started doing my own maintenance. Don't wish to go into that here. Just saying I believe there's no reason for a person not to do their own work if they're so inclined.
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-15 13:53
Thanks, guys. I did, however, want to clear up something that you misconstrued (and reading my post, I see how you might have done so.)
I didn't get a poor professional repad from my available technicians. What I meant was that I could put $125 into a "repad only" service and end up with a 30 yr. old Bundy that I couldn't sell for $125. I appreciate our technicians (both local and on the bb0 and wouldn't want to give them the impression that I was taking a shot at them.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-15 21:25
Most of us tend to see things from our own perspective; I'm certainly guilty of it. I read into your post that you got a poor job - Self centered subjectivity on my part.
I must comment though, that if you're having the horn fixed to be servicable for a year or two and figure the cost spread over that time span, it's not too bad. Some folks spend way more than that on vices and/or entertainment
Speaking strictly from my observations (of the California market), thirty year old Bundys, reasonably cared for (no major repairs), will easily sell for $125 in 'as is' condition to individuals. Reconditioned ones at the music stores go for around $250 to $400 (USD).
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Author: Cindy
Date: 2002-07-15 23:46
Is it any good to attempt to just repad it yourself, with no instruction? I have a very cheap, decrepid clarinet that cost $20, and I figured maybe I can learn something. Is that possible, or should I just not even try?
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-16 00:16
Well, Cindy, I look at it this way. I've never repadded a clarinet . . . at least not all at once. But I've probably reinstalled most every pad on a clarinet at one time or another when the fool thing turned loose and needing reinstalling. You take a high school/college student, one BIC lighter, and a pad or cup that still had adhesive on it, and you've got yourself a recipe for glory or disaster. So far, I haven't caught the wood on fire (at least not so you would notice!)
I should say, however, that I intend to make a decent investment at Ferree's before attempting my repads. That's why I'm trying to determine what to buy. Ferree's discourages buying pad sets, as you usually end up either ruining some or not getting the right sizes. So most people buy dozens of popular sizes or lots of 100's or more. So it is best to know what you want BEFORE placing that kind of order.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-16 00:48
I find no sound reason to discourage anybody from trying something they're interested in doing, Cindy; especially, something that may be beneficial. I wouldn't recommend that you go it alone with no support, however. Although that is an option :
I'd suggest you have enough pads on hand so you can complete the task even if you spoil some along the way. I think Ferree's still sells 'sets' for some models. They recommend that you buy a dozen each of the sizes you'll need, for the very good reason that novices (and old-timers as well) invariably spoil some the first time. No one here is infallible at this. And, besides, you'll have some on hand when you need them later on.
You might want to get in touch with some do-it-yourselfers before you launch into the project. Gain some idea what you'll need in the way of tools and supplies and costs involved. Compare responses and decide what suits you. Keep in touch with those who're 'on your wavelength', as you go along, for suggestions and advice so you can learn and improve as you go.
The trial and error method, with no backup, is, in my opinion an invitation to discouragement. If it doesn't work and you can't figure out how to fix it, you'll soon lose interest. If it doesn't work and you figure out how to remedy it, you're on your way to feeling good about yourself and your new skill :]
Finally, of course, it's up to you
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Author: Gordon (NZ)
Date: 2002-07-16 14:00
By all means, do it yourself, but don't then sell it to some sucker as an overhauled instrument.
It is almost a universal truth - well very common anyway - that when people do their own repadding, the instrument then needs repadding, in spite of the pads LOOKING new.
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Author: Bob
Date: 2002-07-16 14:40
I enjoy attempting to do my own repairs including repadding...as a hobby...and an excuse not to practice. Individuals vary widely in their mechanical abilities and so it would probably be inappropriate for a person to try repadding his R13 if he can't even tie his own shoelaces. But for someone who thinks he..oops or she...might enjoy it then do it on an old Bundy and see how it goes.
If you do buy hundreds of pads and then discover repadding is not your cup of tea then put them on eBay.....
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Author: joevacc
Date: 2002-07-16 15:04
This reminds me of a funny story... I walked into my lesson one day and said to my teacher "guess what?!, I just repadded my whole clarinet!" My teacher then turned a pale pink and yelled "NOW WHAT WILL YOU PRACTICE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!?????????". Well after he played it he realized that I did not destroy the instrument and his natural color started to return. My teacher being a very good repairer himself, told me what I had missed and over a few weeks of taking his advise and him play testing the horn it was as good repad job as I could have hoped for. My point is (and also ron b said: "I recommend to Everyone just starting out, if at all possible, get somehands-on instruction.") one or two tips can from someone with experience can make a world of difference. All this said I have sent repair jobs that were over my head happily out to a qualified and well recommended tech. Give it a go!
Best,
-=[Joe Vacc]=-
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Author: Lisa
Date: 2002-07-16 19:28
I'm following this discussion with interest here as I've just bought a Yamaha that needs repadding (see my other thread - broken yamaha).
I wish I had the funds to get it done professionally, but here in the UK a full repad will set me back £140 GBP - so I've got no other option but to do it myself.
If anyone can give me any pointers or tips, i'd be really grateful.
Thanks
Lisa
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-16 20:02
Lisa, for starters:
1. Go to the top of this page and select Equipment from the dropdown menu and GO.
2. Select Care and Maintenance and see what is listed there.
There are other neat features about Sneezy other than the bb.
Thanks, Mark.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-16 20:31
It may get too lengthy to post here, Lisa, since you may have to begin with a tedious step by tedious step procedure. I'm sure if you contact people directly you'll get some willing responders. Then, the tips that are especially good for you could be posted in thoughtful condensed form later.
I mean, we could post whole chapters of info at one sitting. But I don't want to I don't think that's the intention of the BB; it may also be drifting off track since there is lots of info on this topic elsewhere here (at Sneezy's site). But for personal exchanges you can contact individuals by clicking on their name, right under 'Author' of a response. You'll get their e-Mail address(es).
Or, you could post one-key-at-a-time questions here and see how that goes.
Joe V's response points out that a satisfactory re-pad can be done with patience and a little encouragement, in the long run, you'll probably save money by doing so. After all, I think that's your aim. Go for it I believe Ferree's has a European branch so you would pay postage for supplies from there, not north America. As a start, you can e-Mail them for a free catalogue:
<ferreestools@aol.com>
(I think
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-16 20:35
Oops : Sorry, it didn't 'take' :|
ferreestools@aol.com
...Take one day off and I have to be re-trained :(
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Author: Jim E.
Date: 2002-07-17 04:20
$250 - 400 for a re-conditioned Bundy seems high when two of the mail order houses are offering the Selmer 1400 (no more "Bundy" name) for $359 (+ shipping of course) and the Buffet B12 for $350. Music stores will get what the market will bear (as will all retail businesses.) Our local store sells playable (not necessiarily re-conditioned) Bundys for $175.
I have researched the prices because I'm thinking about buying my son a new plastic horn to take to college marching band. His old Bundy, bought used for $150 8 years ago is in bad shape, and of course his R13 will never see the great outdoors!
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Author: Bob
Date: 2002-07-17 14:21
Perhaps the high priced Bundys are wood ones.
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Author: ron b
Date: 2002-07-17 20:21
My informants tell me that wood Bundys were discontinued quite a few years ago. They're beginning to show their age now. In keeping with this, prices should be dropping for the older wood instruments.
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Author: Lisa
Date: 2002-07-18 16:23
Thanks for your advice in the earlier section of this thread - after reading the DIY repadding guide here on the site, I decided to send the instrument back rather than risk even more damage, which I'm sure I'd probably do
Thanks all,
Lisa
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