 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: John Gibson
Date: 2002-07-12 04:11
Have narrowed it down. Selmer i was looking at is a no go. So the 1010 is an option...except the guy also has a 2-20 B & H. Here's the dilemma.....1010 has a cracked bell and the trill keys don't move! 2-20 is perfect as pertains to the wood, and the keys are in excellent working condition. Both need pads...but fewer for the 2-20. The 2-20 has all the signs of being a Richard Kell model...
the elongated Eb/Ab trill key...and the left C with the ridges. Played both and both have a great sound. 1010 was limited by the trill keys being "stuck". What do you think?
Both are the same price.....give or take a ten or two.......
Don't "need" either...but I am a habitual clarinetter.....
Anyone ready to "father' me in this choice? Thanks....
John
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-12 05:33
I'd go with the 1010 unless I was convinced by our restoration experts that it is hopeless. A 1010 is special; a 2-20 is just a B&H clarinet.
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Author: JackOrion
Date: 2002-07-12 05:50
John sounds like were on the same page!! I'll email you about the King horn, I'd love to hear all about it. I would have to agree with Fred, go with the 10-10. 2-20's pop up on ebay about every other week, good luck trying to find a 10-10. The 1-10 (student) 2-20 (middle) and 4-20 (pro) all have the Kell keys. I'm playing on the 2-20 with a Stratford bell which does not have a silver ring, it looks cool and has brought the horn back into tune. With the original 2-20 bell and the M13 #4 reg Van reeds it played low. I dig my 2-20 as it can be very expressive but would trade it in a heart beat for a 10-10. The 10-10 is a larger straight bore. The 2-20 is smaller (still large compared to french) with a taper.
Unless those keys are welded a good overhaul should put em straight.
Now if only the 10-10 had the Kell key design.....oh yeah!!!
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-07-12 14:18
Why not both!! IMHO !! The 10-10 will [nearly] always have collector value, and should be recoverable, with patience and WD 40 on the pivot rods. The 2-20 may suit your playing better, via "in-tuneness", big-bores have a somewhat poor reputation, need lots of "lipping" [in my very limited experience IMVLE]. Don
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Author: Vytas
Date: 2002-07-12 14:27
John,
Make sure pivot rods are not frozen and screw slots are fine. Frozen rods usually are not a big problem. Penetrating oil, heat and patients all you need to get the job done. But it's not always the case. I have a Buffet from 1916 with several frozen keys. When I got the clarinet, keys did not move at all. I've been applying penetrating oil and heat for 5 months now, but three keys still are frozen.....
If 1010 needs just regular overhaul, go for it, but if it needs more, I wouldn't bother.....V
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Author: John Gibson
Date: 2002-07-13 02:29
BUT....what about the crack in the bell? It's at the top. About an inch and a half long...and 1/32 inch wide?
John
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Author: Don Berger
Date: 2002-07-13 14:12
If the bell doesn't "sing" to you, prob. only on certain notes, after a pro "gluing" AND a fairly "loose" corking of the lower joint [dont stress the bell more than necessary to hold it on], it should be tolerable for an old "collector" cl, IMHO. Don
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Author: Fred
Date: 2002-07-15 22:13
So John . . . before this thread drops off the current world view - What did you decide?
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